Eibach Pro-truck lift

The snap ring is set in the wrong groove. You can see the lowest groove exposed in your 2nd pic and the snap ring needs to be on the lowest groove for the 2.75” lift setting.

50f6c8fcff1343400033a41ddfc379d3.jpg


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Thanks,

this was definitely the issue and even after I pointed this out they tried telling me I just needed to put a spacer in the back to level it out =/. They just didn't want to redo the fronts again. Needless to say I don't trust this shop now and got everything back which looks good except now I get rubbing on the driver side on the rear frame when the wheel is turned all the way (mud flaps have been removed). Passenger side is close, but clears. Is this normal? Running 285/70/17 Wildpeak AT3's and a -12 offset on A 17X9 wheel and haven't seen anyone mentioning having to do a body chop for 285s after a lift.
 
Thanks,

this was definitely the issue and even after I pointed this out they tried telling me I just needed to put a spacer in the back to level it out =/. They just didn't want to redo the fronts again. Needless to say I don't trust this shop now and got everything back which looks good except now I get rubbing on the driver side on the rear frame when the wheel is turned all the way (mud flaps have been removed). Passenger side is close, but clears. Is this normal? Running 285/70/17 Wildpeak AT3's and a -12 offset on A 17X9 wheel and haven't seen anyone mentioning having to do a body chop for 285s after a lift.

I believe it’s the negative offset of your wheel that’s causing the rubbing. For example, I run the Trd pro wheel which has a +4 offset on 285’s and have zero rubbing with the eibach lift.
 
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Thanks,

this was definitely the issue and even after I pointed this out they tried telling me I just needed to put a spacer in the back to level it out =/. They just didn't want to redo the fronts again. Needless to say I don't trust this shop now and got everything back which looks good except now I get rubbing on the driver side on the rear frame when the wheel is turned all the way (mud flaps have been removed). Passenger side is close, but clears. Is this normal? Running 285/70/17 Wildpeak AT3's and a -12 offset on A 17X9 wheel and haven't seen anyone mentioning having to do a body chop for 285s after a lift.

It's probably your wheel.

You can try re-aligning it and pushing the caster up as far as they reasonably can (somewhere around 4* would be nice, but might not be attainable with stock UCAs). This pushes the tire forward to avoid rubbing on the body mount or mud flap.

Of course by pushing the tire forward you could rub on the front fender, in which you would just trim that slightly and push your fender liner forward slightly as well. Could be worth a try before doing a body mount chop.
 
It's probably your wheel.

You can try re-aligning it and pushing the caster up as far as they reasonably can (somewhere around 4* would be nice, but might not be attainable with stock UCAs). This pushes the tire forward to avoid rubbing on the body mount or mud flap.

Of course by pushing the tire forward you could rub on the front fender, in which you would just trim that slightly and push your fender liner forward slightly as well. Could be worth a try before doing a body mount chop.

I'm running JBA UCA's. I'm pretty sure the shop didn't want to redo the alignment, and at this point I don't really want them touching my truck anymore. Discount tire was fine with swapping the 285's for 275's, so I'm just going to head that route.
 
Hey everyone, I’m loving the look and ride quality with my Pro Truck Lift Kit. I’m wondering if anyone is experiencing a slight squeak when going over speed bumps? I’m noticing that my rear passenger side squeaks when I go over a bump at slow speeds. I don’t notice anything with I go a little faster over a bump and I don’t notice anything when I’m driving normally. I have about 200 miles on the suspension.
 
I'm running JBA UCA's. I'm pretty sure the shop didn't want to redo the alignment, and at this point I don't really want them touching my truck anymore. Discount tire was fine with swapping the 285's for 275's, so I'm just going to head that route.

Jba has a list of rim back spaces that cause issue. Just an fyi.
 
Anyone else have a preferred vendor for these?

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I dealt with shock warehouse for most of my suspension needs over the years. Usually x% off and free shipping. With the holiday coming up, you should be able to find a deal of two.
 
Anyone else have a preferred vendor for these?

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Got mine from Tire Rack for $748 + free shipping + no tax:
Eibach Pro-Truck Lift System E80-82-071-01-22
Had to wait about 2.5 weeks to receive it at the house.

If you want new top hats installed go toyteclifts.com. They are more expensive though and there is no free shipping. The additional expense did not make sense for me as I didn't install the lift myself.
 
Got mine from Tire Rack for $748 + free shipping + no tax:

Eibach Pro-Truck Lift System E80-82-071-01-22

Had to wait about 2.5 weeks to receive it at the house.



If you want new top hats installed go toyteclifts.com. They are more expensive though and there is no free shipping. The additional expense did not make sense for me as I didn't install the lift myself.
Do you need new top hats for this kit?

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I read all 50+ pages, and it looks like [MENTION=173641]nimby[/MENTION] is the only one on here that mentioned he is running the shocks on factory coils front and rear.

If I just wanted the shocks for now to level and help eliminate braking nosedive, I could add the rest of the kit at later time, right? I'm sure it's more cost-effective to just go with the whole kit, but I'm not really concerned with lifting as much as leveling.

I could be misremembering, but it seems like the Eibach shocks might be a bit nicer (subjective, I know) ride quality than a Bilstein 5100 or 6112 as well?

Thanks for any input.

Travis
 

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