Electrical advise needed

0verland

New member
Hey!

So currently I have a complete dual battery setup from Off-Grid Engineering.

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I am looking at maximizing the room left in the engine bay for essential items. The thing I am currently on the fence about at the available space behind the fuse box and the fire wall.

I currently have two different options of what I want to put there...

1. ARB Dual Compressor setup with bracket

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2. Complete Auxiliary Fuse Block with bracket

Overland-Equipped-Toyota-4runner-Fuse-Block-Bracket_4e449650-f237-4215-869e-6e522cc30036_1024x.jpg


The goal is to only run power for a fridge and potentially a set or two of auxiliary LEDs in the future. Obviously the air can still be accomplished with an off board product, however I would like to go the onboard route if possible. The alternative location I have seen is in the factory sub location, which in this car is not an option as I do have the factory sub.

Basically, I am looking for advise regarding the fuse block. Is a auxiliary power supply necessary for the limited electronics I will be adding? Pros and cons to having it? I am not versed enough in electrical to decide one way or the other, so if it isn't even necessary the fuse block option is a mute point..

I am also open to other locations people have used for either product, as I have search through images and threads concluding everyone basically uses these two spots.

Any guidance for experience or knowledge of electrical would be greatly appreciated.
 
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There is a ton of space in front of the aircleaner box behind the passenger side headlight. Would mount the onboard air as the pic above and fuse box on the passenger side.
 
I'm getting a bit creative with my air setup to make room as well... I decided it's going on the roof with its own small battery in a pelican, or under the fridge as part of the drawer system and just plumb disconnects outside.

The latter would probably keep the pump in the best condition and away from unnecessary engine heat.

I have also considered removing the 2nd battery, changing its form-factor, and relocating it somewhere else.

I built this for a friend so he can put it behind the rear truck seat since he has limited space. Seems like it would also fit nicely in a DIY drawer system just to run the fridge and free up room under the hood.

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There is a ton of space in front of the aircleaner box behind the passenger side headlight. Would mount the onboard air as the pic above and fuse box on the passenger side.

This is true, I never really thought about that. I think I would need to contract a local machinist to do a custom bracket over behind the headlight for the fuse block. I don't see any vendors online that currently offer something like that. Good idea!

The latter would probably keep the pump in the best condition and away from unnecessary engine heat

This is really one of my main points of contention with the onboard air under the hood. It gets hot under there and I want to look out for the life of the pump as much as possible. Up side is ARB does have washable filters which helps when it comes to dust instead of replacing filter after filter.
 
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This is really one of my main points of contention with the onboard air under the hood. It gets hot under there and I want to look out for the life of the pump as much as possible. Up side is ARB does have washable filters which helps when it comes to dust instead of replacing filter after filter.

Most pumps like this have a air inlet relocation kit. You could even route the inlet line into the cab to ensure it's pulling clean air.

The additional heat soaking from the engine will reduce it's service life and reduce duty cycle... it may not be immediately apparent, but sometimes it's a necessary evil.

These pumps are pretty fast, you can probably air yourself up without too much concern.
 

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