mikebontoft
New member
actually that makes more sense to do it that way.
Electrical Guru's
- Thread starter SV_Dude
- Start date
rideexileex
Senior Member
^^^ That is ideal
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Yes, switched ground is ideal but OP wants to turn on aux lights with backup light. Backup light switch switches power (I know toyota engineers are not perfect)
In order to make backup light switch interrupt ground to aux light relay, it would require an additional relay. Too much trouble.
Solution:
Make sure aux light circuit fuse and relay are as close to battery as possible.
Ensure power wire to aux lights are ran and protected properly
gaterose
Senior Member
I personally always use this diagram.
Installation Instructions for KC517 Backup/Flood Kit
It has worked for me in several reverse light installs. The "optional switch kit" mentioned is just a switch, fuse, and wire.
Installation Instructions for KC517 Backup/Flood Kit
It has worked for me in several reverse light installs. The "optional switch kit" mentioned is just a switch, fuse, and wire.
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Thats works and is wired exactly same as Mikes and my schematic on slave mode, BUT KC lights setup uses the switch to carry load current when manually turned on. OK if you're alwasy sure your switch will handle your load current.
gaterose
Senior Member
Good point, this only works for most reverse lights assuming you use a regular 20A switch.
The lights SV_Dude is using are only pulling 36Ws, 3A so pretty much any switch will handle that.
mikebontoft
New member
One thing I wanted to mention was voltage drop. I'm guessing maybe 10-12 feet of wire to route the power. Since the maximum acceptable loss of voltage per foot of wire is .1v, you could potentially lose up to 1.2v on a good system. Now introduce ground side switching and you'll be running another ground wire the same length, effectively doubling the circuit size and dropping up to 2.4v. If it were something right up in the engine compartment or dash, I'd do ground side switching anyway because you aren't running wires the length of the vehicle.
36w? I'm guessing LED lights then? I don't recall what you said. Very low current lights then. If you're wiring more than one set of lights to go from one switch, don't forget to wire in series-parallel ( series first, then parallel to the lights. lol)
36w? I'm guessing LED lights then? I don't recall what you said. Very low current lights then. If you're wiring more than one set of lights to go from one switch, don't forget to wire in series-parallel ( series first, then parallel to the lights. lol)
GonOvr
New member
Ground side switching for the relay, not the light. The relay can be put where ever you want. Then run your light power from the relay. No need for a 12ft ground.
Same thing applies for 12v signal side of a relay. Just let the relays do the grunt work. This way he can upgrade the lights to what ever the wire can handle and not have to be limited to just leds or low draw lights.
Same thing applies for 12v signal side of a relay. Just let the relays do the grunt work. This way he can upgrade the lights to what ever the wire can handle and not have to be limited to just leds or low draw lights.
mikebontoft
New member
That would be the way to do it if it were just an on/off light function, but he also wants the work light(s) to come on with reverse lights along with the ability to disable them if necessary. Not possible without the use of another relay.
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Exactly. Length of control side wires not critical because they carry lowe current only for relay coil.
Yep, advantage of relay; Capacity's already there.
Yep, To convert stock reverse light switching to switched ground would require extra parts. too much trouble like I mentioned ^^^
So, for OP's application, the mikebontoft-rad4runner schematic above would still be the most electrically-sound, robust, simplest, require the least additional parts; yet it offers room for additional capacity -limited only by the relay's current -carrying capacity.
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mikebontoft
New member
at which point you'd wire up a second set of lights controlled by the same switch on another relay 
btw, thanks for posting your link because that inspired me to make a door chime with the rear window relay buzzer. (spare I have. sounds like a late model Honda chime if you try to turn the key with the tailgate open)
btw, thanks for posting your link because that inspired me to make a door chime with the rear window relay buzzer. (spare I have. sounds like a late model Honda chime if you try to turn the key with the tailgate open)
rideexileex
Senior Member
any update on this? how'd it work out for you?
I have been super busy lately and haven't had a chance to do anything to the 4runner.
