Electrical problems

[Vols77]

I've got some weird issues with my windows/locks. For example the passenger window will randomly roll down, the rear passenger won't roll down at all and the locks don't always work. Does the master switch on the driverside door work kind of like the brain for the whole system? I removed it and noticed some corrosion and black marks like something may have shorted. I'm thinking of replacing it and hoping it resolves the issues but that may just be wishful thinking. anyone have an electrical diagram?

Thanks


1999 4runner limited

 

[TheDurk]

He who wants wire diagrams MUST GIVE YEAR.

But yeah, swap that master switch.

 

[Vols77]

Sorry, 99 Limited

Thanks

He who wants wire diagrams MUST GIVE YEAR.

But yeah, swap that master switch.

 

[TheDurk]

Sorry, 99 Limited

Thanks

That's better. I only have '99 on paper, but 2000 is identical for these circuits.

As you will see, that switch is the only point of overlap for the three circuits with issues, so if there is a single point-of-fail, that's likely it. But with any rear gate issues, check that harness between the liftgate and the body by the liftgate hinge. Those wires are all starting to break and short on these trucks.

 

[Vols77]

Changed the master switchand still the same weird problems.

1-Driver door won't lock / window rolls down fine

2-As soon as the front passenger window is rolled all the way up it immediately rolls itself half way down and stops. But locks fine

3- Rear passenger window doesn't roll down. But locks fine

4-Hatch doesn't lock or unlock but window rolls down fine

Any ideas?


QUOTE=TheDurk;2714403]He who wants wire diagrams
MUST GIVE YEAR.

But yeah, swap that master switch.[/QUOTE]

 

[IBallEngineer]

Changed the master switchand still the same weird problems.

1-Driver door won't lock / window rolls down fine

2-As soon as the front passenger window is rolled all the way up it immediately rolls itself half way down and stops. But locks fine

3- Rear passenger window doesn't roll down. But locks fine

4-Hatch doesn't lock or unlock but window rolls down fine

Any ideas?

Well lots of ideas, but no silver bullet for you. I'll go backwards here starting #4.

Hatch doesn't lock or unlock, does that include with the key or only as part of the electric lock system?

If you use the key in the passenger side lock cylinder, does the driver's door unlock?

Did all the door function problems start at the same time, or did you buy the vehicle with all these problems? They could be related, or not, if they happened one at a time we would look at it differently than if from one day to the next, all symptoms were there.

Do you have a multimeter and the ability to remove door panels?



The Body ECU is really the only thing that could affect all those things.

 

[Vols77]

Well not really getting anywhere with this. Pulled off the cover of the tailgate and I see that the master switch will lock the tailgate but it won't unlock it. Since I've tried a different master switch and the same problems persist could this be a junction box issue? I thought maybe a problem with the wiring at the lift gate harness and lift gate hinge but that wouldnt explain why the front driver side door won't unlock.

Unfortunately I inherited the vehicle with the electrical issues

 

[IBallEngineer]

Well not really getting anywhere with this. Pulled off the cover of the tailgate and I see that the master switch will lock the tailgate but it won't unlock it. Since I've tried a different master switch and the same problems persist could this be a junction box issue? I thought maybe a problem with the wiring at the lift gate harness and lift gate hinge but that wouldnt explain why the front driver side door won't unlock.

Unfortunately I inherited the vehicle with the electrical issues

Yes it could be, hate to see you spend the money without trouble shooting it first. Unless you find a used one for very little money. Gotta answer the questions if you want help, preferably in less than 7 days. LOL

Today is motor home maintenance day, so I'll check back tonight!

 

[Vols77]

Yes it could be, hate to see you spend the money without trouble shooting it first. Unless you find a used one for very little money. Gotta answer the questions if you want help, preferably in less than 7 days. LOL

Today is motor home maintenance day, so I'll check back tonight!

Unfortunately I am a bit of a novice. I'm struggling on how to troubleshoot this. I could check for continuity or voltage but am not sure of the actual points to do this on the switches or wire.

 

[TheDurk]

Unfortunately I am a bit of a novice. I'm struggling on how to troubleshoot this. I could check for continuity or voltage but am not sure of the actual points to do this on the switches or wire.

Honestly, I think I'm pretty good at this and I'm not sure how I'd go about this one. The overarching doubt is whether we have a single or multiple points of failure. If it's single, logic says it's the Body ECU. But that does not address the window issues, which should be immune from the Body ECU. Further, you have swapped the master switch and, to my honest surprise, no fix on TWO problems, and again, that's the only place those two overlap.

These machines are relatively reliable as to electric, and when I see multiple failures, I tend to think common cause where possible, and that is usually right. In your case, I'm starting to think multiple, but related, points of fail.

So, what do we know about the history of this vehicle? Did you run a Carfax? Any chance this thing has seen a flood or immersion? Is the carpet water damaged? Or new? Water in the headlights? Any other clues?

Anyway, I am not going to think single point of fail, because I don't believe there is one. So let's decide to track down one issue that is, or should be, relatively easy to chase--that rear window and see what that tells us.

Wait for my next post....
[MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] Old man, (but younger than me), how do you figure Body ECU could cause these window issues?

 

[TheDurk]

For this, you will have to get that rear pax door panel off, and be ready with a multimeter to test for voltage. I hope you can do that, or we won't get very far.

Once you have the panel off, install the switch from the OTHER rear door and see if the window still refuses to roll down from both switch in door and master. Just for fun, see if the other door window works with the pax side switch. Same p/n, they swap side-to-side.

Assuming it does not roll down, first, make sure you have 12V+ on the Blue-red wire with key on, and ground on both the red-yellow and solid green wires, without pushing anything. To test for ground, put one probe on a 12V+ source, like the blue-red wire once you have tested it, and the other on the wire you are testing. If you get 12 volts or so, it's a good ground.

Tell, me the results of that, and I'll tell you what to do next. Please be clear and specific, and this will go faster.

 

[IBallEngineer]

Honestly, I think I'm pretty good at this and I'm not sure how I'd go about this one. The overarching doubt is whether we have a single or multiple points of failure. If it's single, logic says it's the Body ECU. But that does not address the window issues, which should be immune from the Body ECU. Further, you have swapped the master switch and, to my honest surprise, no fix on TWO problems, and again, that's the only place those two overlap.

These machines are relatively reliable as to electric, and when I see multiple failures, I tend to think common cause where possible, and that is usually right. In your case, I'm starting to think multiple, but related, points of fail.

So, what do we know about the history of this vehicle? Did you run a Carfax? Any chance this thing has seen a flood or immersion? Is the carpet water damaged? Or new? Water in the headlights? Any other clues?

Anyway, I am not going to think single point of fail, because I don't believe there is one. So let's decide to track down one issue that is, or should be, relatively easy to chase--that rear window and see what that tells us.

Wait for my next post....
[MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] Old man, (but younger than me), how do you figure Body ECU could cause these window issues?

Ahem, adjust hearing aid, well sonny... To be honest I read the OP a week a go and the alzimers didn't allow me to remember about window problems. I was focused on back door locks and door locks. The body ECU does supply seperate power supply for each rear door and the master switch, but as I recall his problem was "one directional". Hey isn't that a band? See I'm not so old!:drummer:

 

[TheDurk]

Ahem, adjust hearing aid, well sonny... To be honest I read the OP a week a go and the alzimers didn't allow me to remember about window problems. I was focused on back door locks and door locks. The body ECU does supply seperate power supply for each rear door and the master switch, but as I recall his problem was "one directional". Hey isn't that a band? See I'm not so old!:drummer:

With respect to the first, as far as the windows go, it doesn't. It just energizes the PWR relay coil. So if anything works, it has done its job. As to the second, he said it won't roll down. I assume that to mean he has no idea if it will roll up, since it is stuck there, not that it won't.

I'm pretty safe I think, in saying Body--ECU has nothing to do with these window issues. That's why I want to go after those first.

Funny, I can't hear a thing....[taps hearing aid]

 

[IBallEngineer]

With respect to the first, it doesn't. It just energizes the PWR relay coil. So if anything works, it has done its job. As to the second, he said it won't roll down. I assume that to mean he has no idea if it will roll up, since it is stuck there, not that it won't.

I'm pretty safe I think, in saying Body--ECU has nothing to do with these window issues. That's why I want to go after those first.

Funny, I can't hear a thing....

Technically true youngen', but the Power relay does out put 3 separate wires from the junction box/ECU. Just sayin'

Yeah, but I agree, go after one thing at a time, back windows are easy!

Whaaaaat?

 

[TheDurk]

Technically true youngen', but the Power relay does out put 3 separate wires from the junction box/ECU. Just sayin'

Yeah, but I agree, go after one thing at a time, back windows are easy!

Whaaaaat?

OK, as usual, we are on the same page. Let's see what we get back. If no power on the blue-red in the door, I'll buy you a beer.

 

[Vols77]

On the rear driver door that is working I'm getting just under 12 volts. On the door not working it's showing under 1 volt. I have swapped the switches to verify that the switch isn't faulty and no matter which switch is on the rear passenger there is no change with window function

For this, you will have to get that rear pax door panel off, and be ready with a multimeter to test for voltage. I hope you can do that, or we won't get very far.

Once you have the panel off, install the switch from the OTHER rear door and see if the window still refuses to roll down from both switch in door and master. Just for fun, see if the other door window works with the pax side switch. Same p/n, they swap side-to-side.

Assuming it does not roll down, first, make sure you have 12V+ on the Blue-red wire with key on, and ground on both the red-yellow and solid green wires, without pushing anything. To test for ground, put one probe on a 12V+ source, like the blue-red wire once you have tested it, and the other on the wire you are testing. If you get 12 volts or so, it's a good ground.

Tell, me the results of that, and I'll tell you what to do next. Please be clear and specific, and this will go faster.

 

[TheDurk]

On the rear driver door that is working I'm getting just under 12 volts. On the door not working it's showing under 1 volt. I have swapped the switches to verify that the switch isn't faulty and no matter which switch is on the rear passenger there is no change with window function

Well, I don't want to give [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] his beer yet, but he's looking good. Did you check those other two wires for ground? It really helps if you do all the checks I ask for. Obviously, you can't use the blue-red wire as a 12V+ source to check for ground. You will have to find somewhere else.

Do that. Then, with key on, push DOWN on the master switch for that window and see if you have 12V+ on the solid green wire at the rear pax window switch. I hope you have a helper. I am assuming you tried master switch and have no function when calling the rear pax window from there either?

 

[Vols77]

It dawned on me that the window lock was engaged on the master switch. After disengaging that I had 14v whether grounded to the red/yellow or solid green. With the window lock engaged I was under 1v. Reversed rear door switches again to verify and both switches work on the rear driver side door.

 

[IBallEngineer]

It dawned on me that the window lock was engaged on the master switch. After disengaging that I had 14v whether grounded to the red/yellow or solid green. With the window lock engaged I was under 1v. Reversed rear door switches again to verify and both switches work on the rear driver side door.

DOH!:trophy:

Ok, as soon as Ol' Durko wakes up he can tell you how to test the motor, is this the only window with issues? Let me ask [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] after he is done with his senior citizen nap.

 

[Vols77]

Rear passenger window is the only window that doesn't roll up or down but the lock works well.

The front driver door only locks when manually locking but window is good

The front passenger window after being rolled up will immediately roll itself half way down on its own (won't go down on own if window lock has been engaged)

Rear lift gate locks but won't unlock