Electrical weirdness

[Mudflaps]

Hello.

I was wondering if you guys could help me out here. The old '01 Limited is acting stangely, and I'm not quite sure where the issue could be coming from. Bear with me, as I dont know how much is too little info or too much.

To start this tale off......I originally bought this truck from an boss of mine. The original tailgate had been replaced due to rust (yet not relocked apparently....?). The switch inside the dash does not lower the rear window.

One day, after thinking for months that my rear window was dead to the world, i had the brilliant idea to read the manual and realized there was a delay in the rear window button on the remote. My rear window then rolled down to my enthrallment. All was well with the world until I realized that I couldnt roll it back up with either the remote or the dash switch :dammit:

I then went back to trusty ol' T4R and sniffed around for a while until I found a way to manually roll up the rear window by tapping the wires in the window motor with 12v power. Rear window went up.....SUCCESS!!.....except for now ALL FOUR of my *other* power windows now refuse to work. :doh:

The power locks work, the fuses *APPEAR* to be fine, but if there was something wrong with the fuse, wouldn't the power locks fail as well since the windows and locks are on the same branch?

Can anyone help me out? lol.

 

[Devbot]

You realize you can use the key in the hatch's lock to roll up the window, right..? Or am I missing something
As for why it isn't connected up front I find very strange, I've never heard of one having to be relocked in the few times I've seen members post about replacing theirs
Did you undo the wiring you tapped to get the window rolled back up? I imagine you tapped into something related with the windows and the extra load is causing it to act up

 

[HiLife]

Since the hatch was replaced, wonder if they got a production date hatch that matches close to your 01 production date. I'm guessing they did cause before 7/98 and after 7/98 the hatch has a different part number and could be slightly different fitting. Plus the license plate surround is different.

The wiring inside the hatch and the rear hatch ecu is different too pending production date, key-less entry, theft deterrent system, etc.

As a starting point, I would try to find out what is the part number on your rear hatch ecu and match that to what your 01 should have.

 

[T4topher]

Since the hatch was replaced, wonder if they got a production date hatch that matches close to your 01 production date. I'm guessing they did cause before 7/98 and after 7/98 the hatch has a different part number and could be slightly different fitting. Plus the license plate surround is different.

The wiring inside the hatch and the rear hatch ecu is different too pending production date, key-less entry, theft deterrent system, etc.

As a starting point, I would try to find out what is the part number on your rear hatch ecu and match that to what your 01 should have.

Yea I’d bet they used the wrong ecu out of the donor hatch, when I replaced my hatch I had to switch just about everything over from my old hatch.. take the trim panel off the rear hatch and take a pic of the ecu module that is there.

 

[Mudflaps]

You realize you can use the key in the hatch's lock to roll up the window, right..? Or am I missing something
As for why it isn't connected up front I find very strange, I've never heard of one having to be relocked in the few times I've seen members post about replacing theirs
Did you undo the wiring you tapped to get the window rolled back up? I imagine you tapped into something related with the windows and the extra load is causing it to act up

The rear hatch was replaced from another 3rd gen, but the rear hatch was never relocked in order to work with the factory keys. The factory keys wont work in the rear lock.

 

[Mudflaps]

Okay, so I borrowed a few perfect photos from blueblur1984 from a previous post here.

With the rear hatch cover off, for starters I noticed this:



The relay in mine is red, not blue, like the one in this photo.

As for the interior of the panel:



The connectors that I've circled were hacked off from where the PO had replaced the window motor(I guess? there was another window motor in the storage compartment :suspicious. The wires were connected by poorly done splices. I powered the window directly once the splices were undone, which is why its strange to me that the issue with the other 4 windows happened to occur at the same time. Isolated events....right?

 

[T4topher]

Okay, so I borrowed a few perfect photos from blueblur1984 from a previous post here.

With the rear hatch cover off, for starters I noticed this:

View attachment 382707

The relay in mine is red, not blue, like the one in this photo.

As for the interior of the panel:

View attachment 382706

The connectors that I've circled were hacked off from where the PO had replaced the window motor(I guess? there was another window motor in the storage compartment :suspicious. The wires were connected by poorly done splices. I powered the window directly once the splices were undone, which is why its strange to me that the issue with the other 4 windows happened to occur at the same time. Isolated events....right?

Pretty sure that blue ecu module is from a 96-99. What year 4runner does blueblur have? There are like 2-3 different ecu’s between the years.

 

[brillo_76]

I am suspecting that when the hatch was changed they didn't change the rekey nor match the wiring and internals. Just like T4topher is thinking too. Explains bizarre behavior if this is the case. Not your fault though.. First is to isolate what the wiring is that is in your back hatch.. Then verify if it matches your Rig.

[In case someone comes across this in the Future]
Rule of Thumb is always keep the wiring that matches the chassis to make your life easier.

If the wiring is correct and its only the key. I would check the boot and the top for broken wires cracked insulation etc as that is a very common area to have issues was well.

[Wiring]
Early years 96-98 really close. 99 to 2000 transition 2001 - 2002 really close.

So depending on which hatch was put on from what year can explain this bizzare issue..

Can you see any wiring harness part numbers or controller part number that may help you on your quest of identification.

 

[HiLife]

Yea I’d bet they used the wrong ecu out of the donor hatch, when I replaced my hatch I had to switch just about everything over from my old hatch.. take the trim panel off the rear hatch and take a pic of the ecu module that is there.

Yup. Most of the shops/recycle yards don't know there is a difference in the rear hatches of different years of 3rd gens. Most think they're all the same minus the actual key lock that needs to be switch over.

When we did a hatch swap, we took the the time looking for a same production year generation hatch. And when we did that swap, all we had to do was the key lock. Everything worked when everything was bolted and plugged together.

OP, hopefully it wasn't too long ago when you boss got the hatch swapped. Maybe you could ask where the shop is and ask if you could get all the internals of the old hatch and, swap them over yourself.

 

[Devbot]

The rear hatch was replaced from another 3rd gen, but the rear hatch was never relocked in order to work with the factory keys. The factory keys wont work in the rear lock.

Oh duh I guess that is how locks work huh? My mistake I must've had my head up my ass, for some reason I didn't put two-and-two together when you said relocked :tape:

 

[Mudflaps]

This is all intriguing. Ill post back in the A.M. with some photos of whatever squirrely-ass things the PO did.