Endoscoping the 3rd gen...

[TonyB66]

I had forgotten that I purchased this during a Black Friday special last month...

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0785H3XR7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not proficient at it yet (starts upside down!), but here's my first attempt through the rear of the driver's side frame rail. I made it about 3 feet before it began to bind. I have some fish tape I'll use next to provide more rigidity...

So far, rust doesn't look to be an issue. Anyone else use something like this to explore our 3rd gens? If so, feel free to post it/them here...

 

[xcmtb83]

I almost bought one of those not too long ago to do exactly that, frame inspection.. Thanks for sharing and let us know how it works.

 

[TonyB66]

I almost bought one of those not too long ago to do exactly that, frame inspection.. Thanks for sharing and let us know how it works.

If all goes well with the fish line taped, I'll try to get 15 or so feet to the front frame plate. If it's just like I've seen so far, I'll blast some air in there to get out dust and loose debris. I'll then paint the inside.

Ordered a few of these.

Now at 15 bucks, so not too bad...

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html

 

[xcmtb83]

I would Fluid-Film it instead of coating it.

 

[TheDurk]

There are lots of places along the frame to enter, so you don't need to go more than three feet. That's how I applied my Eastwood, which won't do much more than that anyway.

 

[TonyB66]

There are lots of places along the frame to enter, so you don't need to go more than three feet. That's how I applied my Eastwood, which won't do much more than that anyway.

Indeed. Looks like the Eastwood "wand" is 2' in length, so I'll be using those holes quite a bit.

So... I was able to explore the frame rails more. Glad there is no audio on the videos as I started drinking early on New Year's Eve, well before snaking the camera down the rails. I also ran it up a gutter downspout and down a drain as well. It will come in handy...

Back to the 4Runner. I had a 20' piece of 14/2 Romex that was perfect - both small and stiff enough for the job. My wall fish is too coiled or not straight enough for this job... Some electrical tape to secure the the camera and line to the Romex worked very well.

I also got the passenger side inspected, which looks about the same as driver side - pretty good. On a much older vehicle that had a lot rust on the inside of the frame rails I removed much of it by spinning short strands of ornamental chains connected to a cable, driven by a drill. I recall having the cable inside a somewhat flexible landscaping drip pipe to keep it from flopping around. It worked really well... I just don't see the need here, thankfully.

Between a shop vac, leaf blower and air compressor, I will attempt to remove whatever dust and debris exists, then paint. From the rear, I was not able to maneuver the camera to see the most forward portions of the frame rails, what looks to be about 3 feet. I will inspect those later through a hole in the frame. As with the rear, that portion of the frame is elevated, so I tend to think that rust won't be bad there either. Water and crud would gravitate to the lower portions of the frame, between the wheels...

If interested, and have 15 minutes to kill...

 

[Mudeprived]

If you have some more free time could you pop out your plugs and take a peek into the cylinders? I have dealt with a bad head gasket for a while and was going to do this to see how bad it got in there but need something to compare it to. Mine looks pretty dirty in there from what I can see with a flash light.

 

[TonyB66]

If you have some more free time could you pop out your plugs and take a peek into the cylinders? I have dealt with a bad head gasket for a while and was going to do this to see how bad it got in there but need something to compare it to. Mine looks pretty dirty in there from what I can see with a flash light.

I'm game to try that. TBH, I don't think it will be soon though. That scope, after going down frame rails, through a downspout and a drainpipe, is pretty dirty now. I'd of course want it very clean for probing cylinders.

I'm seeing many uses for this device, home and auto. Today I used it briefly inside the wall for a pocket door.

 

[Mark_BC]

I got the $75 one from Harbor Freight. Yours looks better. Mine has a screen on it which is handy but only those old style video plugs to hook it up to some ancient technology.

Might not be as important for you since you have no rust but I enlarged all side holes on the frame so I could stick my middle finger in and feel the bottom of the frame. I also enlarged all (non-threaded) holes on the bottom of the frame so I could fit my pinky in. I also drilled a second hole at the base of the lower control arm mounts where all the crap accumulates. It is now super easy to hose out the frame.

I made the mistake of applying Ospho rust reformer before painting with Eastwood frame paint. That stuff leaves a white powder residue that must be removed before painting which I can't do inside the frame. It started rusting again immediately after driving along the Oregon coast. I think I'll do another coat with the frame paint, then just spray in WD-40 or rust inhibitor.

For removing rust flakes inside the frame I have found that a metal handle from a 5 gallon bucket works wonders. Each end has a little L shape you can trim down to make shorter. The metal is stiff enough that you can really wrench on the rust flakes but you can still bend it to suit any location you need to access.

I'd spray in POR degreaser before painting, with a spray bottle but make sure you cover your skin, that stuff hurts. Then hose it out and spray it down with methanol for a final rinse.

 

[TonyB66]

I got the $75 one from Harbor Freight. Yours looks better. Mine has a screen on it which is handy but only those old style video plugs to hook it up to some ancient technology.

Might not be as important for you since you have no rust but I enlarged all side holes on the frame so I could stick my middle finger in and feel the bottom of the frame. I also enlarged all (non-threaded) holes on the bottom of the frame so I could fit my pinky in. I also drilled a second hole at the base of the lower control arm mounts where all the crap accumulates. It is now super easy to hose out the frame.

I made the mistake of applying Ospho rust reformer before painting with Eastwood frame paint. That stuff leaves a white powder residue that must be removed before painting which I can't do inside the frame. It started rusting again immediately after driving along the Oregon coast. I think I'll do another coat with the frame paint, then just spray in WD-40 or rust inhibitor.

For removing rust flakes inside the frame I have found that a metal handle from a 5 gallon bucket works wonders. Each end has a little L shape you can trim down to make shorter. The metal is stiff enough that you can really wrench on the rust flakes but you can still bend it to suit any location you need to access.

I'd spray in POR degreaser before painting, with a spray bottle but make sure you cover your skin, that stuff hurts. Then hose it out and spray it down with methanol for a final rinse.

Really good info Mark, thanks.

I almost wish the front of the frame rails had an access hole or were open like in the rear. As it stands now, I'm going raise the front end as much as I can or maybe drive it up the steepest mound on the property so I have gravity helping... I'd then blow or vacuum out what I can first, then water. I have a nice pressure washer, but I'm currently not seeing how I can use that in this application. If not, I'm leaning toward a garden hose with a brass fitting that has a male hose barb, maybe 3/8". That should be snake-able, and I'd add some rigidity possibly, maybe that same Romex.

I might just do the air approach in the short term, then after it gets warm to hot, water and after dry, paint (Eastwood).

EDIT/ADD: Think I found a way to use the pressure washer...

https://www.cloghog.com/proddetail.php?prod=25-Ft-Needle-Nose-Drain-Cleaner-Set

 

[96RedRunner]

I have a nice pressure washer, but I'm currently not seeing how I can use that in this application..

I was in the same boat having a pressure washer and getting deep in the frame.
I made a cloghog on the cheap, dumpster diving went by a forklift repair shop,
they had some 3/8" 3000 psi hydraulic hose for free. I rigged it to pressure washer.

 

[TonyB66]

I was in the same boat having a pressure washer and getting deep in the frame.
I made a cloghog on the cheap, dumpster diving went by a forklift repair shop,
they had some 3/8" 3000 psi hydraulic hose for free. I rigged it to pressure washer.

Nice. I contemplated such an extension on my pressure washer. At 100 bucks for the ClogHog, that's a bit much. That said, it obviously has the intended use going for it, which is nice to have in the home. Thinking about it...

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I have one of these but haven't used it yet. When I do mine I'll post it up. Living in the Northeast, I've got some rust, but no flaking, bubbling or peeling at all. Would be interesting to finally see what my truck looks like inside the rails as we all know they rust from the inside out on the frame rails.

Honestly, your frame is fine. If it gives you piece of mind to coat the frame internally have at it, but, after 20 years and your frame looks like that, I don't think you'll have any issues.

 

[TonyB66]

I have one of these but haven't used it yet. When I do mine I'll post it up. Living in the Northeast, I've got some rust, but no flaking, bubbling or peeling at all. Would be interesting to finally see what my truck looks like inside the rails as we all know they rust from the inside out on the frame rails.

Honestly, your frame is fine. If it gives you piece of mind to coat the frame internally have at it, but, after 20 years and your frame looks like that, I don't think you'll have any issues.

Agreed. I can be somewhat anal. It does make me feel better though. I think it's a sickness. I recognize it though, for whatever that is worth...

Please add to the video here when you get around to it...

 

[96RedRunner]

I live in the Southeast I couldn't justify a benjamin if I had known of Clog-hog.
The hydraulic hose I used has a internal stainless steel braid to get it to 3k psi rating semi rigid hose.
I used a spray tip with hose clamp, quick connect at wand.
When I hit the trigger the tip would bounce around inside frame knocking rust loose.
I did this on the 01 that spent time in NC no rust to speak of came out so I think frame is good.
Works great for gutters after I made a sheperds hook out of EMT conduit.
More than one way to skin a cat, know what I mean.

 

[TonyB66]

I live in the Southeast I couldn't justify a benjamin if I had known of Clog-hog.
The hydraulic hose I used has a internal stainless steel braid to get it to 3k psi rating semi rigid hose.
I used a spray tip with hose clamp, quick connect at wand.
When I hit the trigger the tip would bounce around inside frame knocking rust loose.
I did this on the 01 that spent time in NC no rust to speak of came out so I think frame is good.
Works great for gutters after I made a sheperds hook out of EMT conduit.
More than one way to skin a cat, know what I mean.

Creative, I like it.

Even with the intended plumbing use, I too can't justify the cost of the ClogHog. With shipping, it's like 115 bucks. I already have some pretty good drain blockage tools that have worked well for us anyways...

I will try to come-up with something comparable with my pressure washer. I don't plan to tackle that portion of the frame, along with painting, until the heat of summer.