Energy Universal End Links #9.8167 Threading

[weekendclimber]

Has anybody used these end links on their rigs? My goal is to piece together a fairly inexpensive set of end links all the way around by adding a heim joint to one end, but I'm not sure what threads and size the bolts used are. Anybody try that, or have opinions on whether this would work?

Cheers

Energy Universal End Links #9.8167:

Heim Joint:

Ultimate Idea from http://www.toyota120.com/:

These would only cost about $60 for four links...god I'm a cheap bastard:suspicious:

I should add that I've talked with the Energy Rep via email, but he only suggested using the more expensive ($80/pair) pivot style link.

 

[SlickmisterN]

Not sure if it really matters for your intended application but an exposed heim joint at that location is gonna get dirty, then noisy very quickly. Just look at your current dirt crusted boots to get an idea of how much debris accumulates there... something to think about.

 

[weekendclimber]

Not sure if it really matters for your intended application but an exposed heim joint at that location is gonna get dirty, then noisy very quickly. Just look at your current dirt crusted boots to get an idea of how much debris accumulates there... something to think about.

That's a good point, I might end up going with something like this. Still pretty cheap though:

McMaster-Carr

 

[weekendclimber]

Finally got around to thinking about this and ordered a set. The threading on the ES 9.8166 (which differs from the thread title), is 3/8-16 according to the big box board with all the sizes listed. After measuring the new distance from where the rear sway bar would be positioned parallel to the rear LCA, it came out to right about 6 1/2". That's why I got the 9.8166 instead of the longest 9.8167.

Now the problem is that the McMaster-Carr catalog only has the heavy duty linkages (McMaster-Carr) in 3/8-24 sized threads.

Anyone have some other sources for those ball joints?

 

[weekendclimber]

Maybe I'm talking to myself, but I thought I'd confirm this with anyone else out there. 3/8"-16 threads, according to this thread conversion table, are the same as M10-1.5 threads. So, theoretically, these ball joints will work and interestingly enough they come in a quick-disconnect version:naughty:

Can anyone confirm that those threads are the same? Going to go back tonight after work and check them at the big box store.

 

[lhsoulrebel]

Maybe I'm talking to myself, but I thought I'd confirm this with anyone else out there. 3/8"-16 threads, according to this thread conversion table, are the same as M10-1.5 threads. So, theoretically, these ball joints will work and interestingly enough they come in a quick-disconnect version:naughty:

Can anyone confirm that those threads are the same? Going to go back tonight after work and check them at the big box store.

This is a really cool idea. Let me know what you find out! I have the energy suspension end links that someone on here did a write up on... Happy so far, but every time I go to the hardware store I find myself imagining how to make them a quick disco...

 

[Bandit Runner]

Maybe I'm talking to myself, but I thought I'd confirm this with anyone else out there. 3/8"-16 threads, according to this thread conversion table, are the same as M10-1.5 threads. So, theoretically, these ball joints will work and interestingly enough they come in a quick-disconnect version:naughty:

Can anyone confirm that those threads are the same? Going to go back tonight after work and check them at the big box store.

Those thread are really close in size and pitch, but I don't think they are interchangeable. Meaning you can't thread a metric nut on an English bolt and vice versa. Go to a hardware store and try it first.

 

[weekendclimber]

Those thread are really close in size and pitch, but I don't think they are interchangeable. Meaning you can't thread a metric nut on an English bolt and vice versa. Go to a hardware store and try it first.

Went to the big box store and the bolt does fit the M10-1.5 threads. I tried it in the 3/8-16 and it honestly didn't seem to grab more or less. Going to order those quick disconnects. I might add a nut above the ball joint to keep it from just coming unscrewed and dumping the bushings onto the road:wacko:

 

[lhsoulrebel]

Send pics please! This seems like a very inexpensive and functional way to get quick discos. Keep us posted!

 

[weekendclimber]

Send pics please! This seems like a very inexpensive and functional way to get quick discos. Keep us posted!

I'll keep this thread updated as I get parts.

The maximum length of the 9.8166 link is 5 3/4". The threads on the 8 1/2" bolt that comes with it are 1 1/4" in length. The disconnectable ball joint has a thread depth of approximately 13/16" (21mm). Subtract that from the 1 3/8" (35mm) from the distance from the center of the ball to the end of the shank, and it adds 9/16" to the overall length of the bolt. I'll need a longer spacer that will butt up against the top of the shank on the ball joint. I'll to think about how long that will need to be.
Here's a simple measurement photo of the existing links. Sorry for the potato quality:

 

[lhsoulrebel]

What about using different model links from energy? It think my spacer was longer than that. Let me check/ measure for you.

 

[lhsoulrebel]

I'll keep this thread updated as I get parts.

The maximum length of the 9.8166 link is 5 3/4". The threads on the 8 1/2" bolt that comes with it are 1 1/4" in length. The disconnectable ball joint has a thread depth of approximately 13/16" (21mm). Subtract that from the 1 3/8" (35mm) from the distance from the center of the ball to the end of the shank, and it adds 9/16" to the overall length of the bolt. I'll need a longer spacer that will butt up against the top of the shank on the ball joint. I'll to think about how long that will need to be.
Here's a simple measurement photo of the existing links. Sorry for the potato quality:

The model I used was 9.8121r. The spacer length is 4 5/8"... That maybe the length you need. The over all length from the bottom assembled washer to the top washer is just under 8".

 

[lhsoulrebel]

Sorry not a great pic, that's just me measuring the spacer length.

 

[weekendclimber]

The model I used was 9.8121r. The spacer length is 4 5/8"... That maybe the length you need. The over all length from the bottom assembled washer to the top washer is just under 8".

Yeah, I'm going to need a shorter bolt and longer sleeve. I did some more accurate measuring last night. Here's what I came up with.

Bolt: 8 7/16" total length with 1 3/8" of threads
Bushing Assembly (two sized bushings): 1 7/8" overall length, spaced 13/16" or 1 1/16" depending on which bushing is on top. That's 1/4" of adjustability.
Sleeves: 3 1/2"

The way it's setup now, I'll get between 7 15/16" to 8 3/16" in length and it'll need a 7 3/4" sleeve. That's way too long for what I need.

If I get a 7" bolt, that would put me between 6 7/16" and 6 11/16" (I want about 6 1/2" total) and I'll need a 4 5/16" sleeve (round to 4 3/8", better longer than shorter). That's assuming the the length of the threads on the 7 inch bolt are still 1 3/8" as they are on the 8 7/16" bolt I have now.

Source: maths

 

[lhsoulrebel]

Yeah, I'm going to need a shorter bolt and longer sleeve. I did some more accurate measuring last night. Here's what I came up with.

Bolt: 8 7/16" total length with 1 3/8" of threads
Bushing Assembly (two sized bushings): 1 7/8" overall length, spaced 13/16" or 1 1/16" depending on which bushing is on top. That's 1/4" of adjustability.
Sleeves: 3 1/2"

The way it's setup now, I'll get between 7 15/16" to 8 3/16" in length and it'll need a 7 3/4" sleeve. That's way too long for what I need.

If I get a 7" bolt, that would put me between 6 7/16" and 6 11/16" (I want about 6 1/2" total) and I'll need a 4 5/16" sleeve (round to 4 3/8", better longer than shorter). That's assuming the the length of the threads on the 7 inch bolt are still 1 3/8" as they are on the 8 7/16" bolt I have now.

Source: maths

well, the spacer length seems pretty close with that set (if you needed you could just hacksaw the end off)... bolt would be too long... must have a slightly smaller bolt at a hardware store. If this works, I'm def doing it.... those disconnects have to work with something like this set up.opcorn:

 

[lhsoulrebel]

you could also you threaded bar like the original guy did, cut down to length...

 

[weekendclimber]

I was thinking about that. One concern that I have are the threads on the rod chewing through the bushing. Maybe I'm over thinking it a bit though.

 

[sjwelna]

I was thinking about that. One concern that I have are the threads on the rod chewing through the bushing. Maybe I'm over thinking it a bit though.

You could always either grind the threads smooth in that area, or just mix up some JBweld and slather it over the threads in that spot to smooth it out. Just use some tape to wrap over the top of the JBweld to hold it tight into the threads while it cures so it won't change the OD of the bolt that much. Just an idea, quick and easy.

-Steve

 

[weekendclimber]

You could always either grind the threads smooth in that area, or just mix up some JBweld and slather it over the threads in that spot to smooth it out. Just use some tape to wrap over the top of the JBweld to hold it tight into the threads while it cures so it won't change the OD of the bolt that much. Just an idea, quick and easy.

-Steve

That's a great idea and way easier than trying to find a bolt with the right dimensions.

Just ordered a foot of seamless 316/316T stainless steel tube with .43" inner diameter for $6 to make sleeves from. I love having an online metal retailer in town that I can make custom orders with and then go and pick up for no shipping charges!!:reddance:

 

[weekendclimber]

Just an update: Got the ball joints in along with a threaded rod in 3/8"-16 and it will NOT fit the M10-1.5 pitched threads in the ball joints. Just ordered a 1m long M10-1.5 pitch threaded rod along with some nuts to go with it. Picked up the piece of tubing this morning as well, but I'm going to have to wait until the threaded rod and nuts come in the mail. I'll post up some pictures with measurements later this afternoon.