lhsoulrebel
New member
Any luck with sway bar links?
Energy Universal End Links #9.8167 Threading
- Thread starter weekendclimber
- Start date
weekendclimber
New member
I think I made them too long?! :bluejump:
I've got more parts coming in next week to complete the setup. Just wait for the brown truck.
lhsoulrebel
New member
I think I made them too long?! :bluejump:
I've got more parts coming in next week to complete the setup. Just wait for the brown truck.
He he, looks good to me!
lhsoulrebel
New member
Any luck with these?
weekendclimber
New member
I'm going to install them this weekend and post up the results. The one thing that I'm concerned about is the "beefiness" or lack thereof of the actual quick-release ball joint. The plan is to ride with them for a little while and check to see how they're doing.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I think I made them too long?! :bluejump:
I've got more parts coming in next week to complete the setup. Just wait for the brown truck.
That's perfect for my 24" body lift I'll be installing this weekend! How much do you want for them? :lmao:
lhsoulrebel
New member
Well, if they break its not really a big deal... But let me know, as I really like the idea.
weekendclimber
New member
Sorry for the delay. Going to throw these onto the rig this morning. All in all, I get an additional ~4" of length. The links themselves add about 2.5" of that overall total. This, along with the SS rear sway bar bracket that is installed, is how I get to around 4" of total additional length. That's pretty close to the amount of lift I have in the rear with the LC Tokico rear shocks and 80 series coils from the SS 1.2 kit. Keep in mind also, that the SS rear sway bar bracket also moves the position of the sway bar forward slightly. About an inch or so I think.
This first picture shows (from left to right) the original rear links, front links, and the DIY ones I put together.
The nice thing about how I set this up is that this will be the maximum length of the link. By subtracting a nut from on top of or below the aluminum sleeve surrounding the threaded rod, I can shorten it. Also, the ES bushings have a 1/4" height difference that can be adjusted as well.
One other detail is that I added a nut to where the back of the sway bar mounting hole will sit in order to line up where it would have sit originally. The stud where the mounting hole would sit on the detachable ball joint wasn't quite far enough out. This allowed for the proper spacing.
Soooo easy to disconnect!
This first picture shows (from left to right) the original rear links, front links, and the DIY ones I put together.
The nice thing about how I set this up is that this will be the maximum length of the link. By subtracting a nut from on top of or below the aluminum sleeve surrounding the threaded rod, I can shorten it. Also, the ES bushings have a 1/4" height difference that can be adjusted as well.
One other detail is that I added a nut to where the back of the sway bar mounting hole will sit in order to line up where it would have sit originally. The stud where the mounting hole would sit on the detachable ball joint wasn't quite far enough out. This allowed for the proper spacing.
Soooo easy to disconnect!
weekendclimber
New member
Here are pictures after the install. It looks to me that they are just about the right length, if maybe a hair too long. It's also pretty obvious that the SS rear sway bar adjustment bracket definitely moves the bar forward about an inch. Not sure how that will affect things down the road.
One thing to note; as I stated in my prior post, I added a nut on the inboard side (closest to the ball joint) to help properly space the attachment point from the ball joint. When installing I found that this did not allow enough thread to get the nut on the outboard side to attach securely. So, I took one of the bushing washers from the old links and used that instead. You can see that in the second phote
Looks pretty parallel to me (note washer):
So, for what everyone has been waiting for: How much did it cost?
Overall, I spent $80.28. Of that, $24 was shipping. McMaster-Carr sends out things when they are in stock and then separately ships out other things that are back ordered. Combining things from them into one shipment would have saved money. At the same time, the steel tubing that I used I got online from a local company, so shipping was $0 but I had to pay tax. They are not as beefy as some options out there, but in my opinion (it's just that) is that if you are doing some wheelin' that would potentially break these, you are probably going to disconnect them anyway. Right?!
Let me know if anyone is interested and I can throw up a detailed parts list. It would be easy to get these down around a $60-$70 price point, since I ordered parts that I ultimately did not use that are included in my $80 total.
One thing to note; as I stated in my prior post, I added a nut on the inboard side (closest to the ball joint) to help properly space the attachment point from the ball joint. When installing I found that this did not allow enough thread to get the nut on the outboard side to attach securely. So, I took one of the bushing washers from the old links and used that instead. You can see that in the second phote
Looks pretty parallel to me (note washer):
So, for what everyone has been waiting for: How much did it cost?
Overall, I spent $80.28. Of that, $24 was shipping. McMaster-Carr sends out things when they are in stock and then separately ships out other things that are back ordered. Combining things from them into one shipment would have saved money. At the same time, the steel tubing that I used I got online from a local company, so shipping was $0 but I had to pay tax. They are not as beefy as some options out there, but in my opinion (it's just that) is that if you are doing some wheelin' that would potentially break these, you are probably going to disconnect them anyway. Right?!
Let me know if anyone is interested and I can throw up a detailed parts list. It would be easy to get these down around a $60-$70 price point, since I ordered parts that I ultimately did not use that are included in my $80 total.
MStudt
official vendor
Here are pictures after the install. It looks to me that they are just about the right length, if maybe a hair too long. It's also pretty obvious that the SS rear sway bar adjustment bracket definitely moves the bar forward about an inch. Not sure how that will affect things down the road.
One thing to note; as I stated in my prior post, I added a nut on the inboard side (closest to the ball joint) to help properly space the attachment point from the ball joint. When installing I found that this did not allow enough thread to get the nut on the outboard side to attach securely. So, I took one of the bushing washers from the old links and used that instead. You can see that in the second phote
Looks pretty parallel to me (note washer):
So, for what everyone has been waiting for: How much did it cost?
Overall, I spent $80.28. Of that, $24 was shipping. McMaster-Carr sends out things when they are in stock and then separately ships out other things that are back ordered. Combining things from them into one shipment would have saved money. At the same time, the steel tubing that I used I got online from a local company, so shipping was $0 but I had to pay tax. They are not as beefy as some options out there, but in my opinion (it's just that) is that if you are doing some wheelin' that would potentially break these, you are probably going to disconnect them anyway. Right?!
Let me know if anyone is interested and I can throw up a detailed parts list. It would be easy to get these down around a $60-$70 price point, since I ordered parts that I ultimately did not use that are included in my $80 total.
Should have used 7/16" hardware. Be careful with those disconnects as well. I was going to use those on the ones I sell, but they fail pretty quick. With enough down pressure they'll disconnect themselves too!
weekendclimber
New member
That is something I definitely am going to be watching. The steel tubing adds between 20-30% more strength as far as bending goes, but I'm not so sure about the strength of the ball-joint. I'll keep this thread updated as things progress.
MStudt
official vendor
More so failing in regards to the wear of the ball. You metal on metal contact, and nothing covering it. Dirt will get in the ball, and that'll start causing some squeaking. If nothing else I'd at least pick up some dust boots for those.
weekendclimber
New member
That's a great idea. Do you have a source? There's nothing on Mc-Masters' for that. If they do break, I'm going to go with a more sturdy replacement.
