Engine running at 210-212degF consistantly as per ScanGauge

[Lamer]

Ever since I bought the 4runner, the dash temp gauge has never gone more than half way up.

When i bought the ScanGuageII - the temp reading has been 207+ consistently after warm up. drops to 207 at idle (stoplight) and goes up to 212/213 when I get moving again.

I have a 170degF thermostat en route to install but I was curious if ya'll think 212 is too high for the OEM thermostat?

 

[aontkos]

210-212 F is definitely higher than it should be running. Every truck is different and conditions vary greatly, but I rarely see temperatures over 200...and only if I’m towing in the summer heat with the air conditioner running...

I’d venture to say your thermostat is installed incorrectly. The orientation of the jiggle valve is critical and can make a huge difference in how warm your truck runs.

Thermostats are cheap. Swap your new one in with the jiggle valve oriented towards the bottom and your problem will likely be solved.

 

[Lamer]

Ill let you know how it goes.

I did have a new T-stat installed when I did the timing belt/water pump and there is a chance it could be in upside down.

 

[jgue467]

...
I have a 170degF thermostat en route to install but I was curious if ya'll think 212 is too high for the OEM thermostat?

The dash guage won't move much until its nearly too late, so don't rely on that.

Yes, for the 3.4 with the jiggle valve installed pointing down to 6 o'clock, the engine should be at about 185-190.

Mine with 320K miles stays in that range even here in central texas' 100+ degree summers (8 hours of 100+) easily With the A/C on, it can even idle like that for over 1 hour. Towing gets it up to 195 in the same conditions.

So something is up on your unit.

Check/replace the radiator cap too, cheap insurance, go with Toyota OEM if you can.

Luck and enjoy the Runner. :Cowboy:

 

[Chicago3rdgen]

I agree it's probably the jiggle valve orientation. I bought a 4runner in October and according to my obdII reader it was running 202-208F with ambient temps in the 30s F. Shity thing is this truck had all its service done at a local Toyota dealer. Timing belt, water pump and T-stat completed 40k miles ago. I ordered a new thermostat and sure enough the old t-stat jiggle valve was at 12 o'clock. Installed the new one at 6 o'clock and temps are now consistently 185-193F

 

[brillo_76]

Is your radiator clean? Is your cap on the radiator building pressure. Might be bad radiator cap not building pressure too. These radiator caps are known to go bad in time.

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[HiLife]

Agreed that the stat is most likely the culprit. Might as well do the rad cap too, and change out the anti freeze if the mileage is unknown since your there already changing out the stat.

 

[Novashards]

SG2 has my engine temps at 188-191 year round, even with OD off doing 75mph up mountains in the summer ~90 outside. When I bought it I did install new water pump, thermostat, radiator, and flushed the cooling system before refilling with toyota red.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

My 96 I had put the jiggle valve at 12 and it ran the same 184-191. My 97’s I put at 6.

Saying it’s the jiggle valve position is one thing but you are also replacing the t-stat with a new one. Not relocating the vent position of the same t-stat.

A new rad cap isn’t going to make it run cooler unless it’s low on coolant. But running temps above boiling point will cause problems without the pressure.


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[gamefreakgc]

Is your radiator clean? Is your cap on the radiator building pressure. Might be bad radiator cap not building pressure too. These radiator caps are known to go bad in time.

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That was my thought too. Take off the cap and look down at the fins. If they are corroded (no shiny metal) you need to replace the radiator. Corrosion prevents a good liquid to air heat exchange from the radiator.

 

[Lamer]

The dash guage won't move much until its nearly too late, so don't rely on that.

Yes, for the 3.4 with the jiggle valve installed pointing down to 6 o'clock, the engine should be at about 185-190.

Mine with 320K miles stays in that range even here in central texas' 100+ degree summers (8 hours of 100+) easily With the A/C on, it can even idle like that for over 1 hour. Towing gets it up to 195 in the same conditions.

So something is up on your unit.

Check/replace the radiator cap too, cheap insurance, go with Toyota OEM if you can.

Luck and enjoy the Runner. :Cowboy:

radiator and fluids were replaced with new just before I bought it (2yrs ago ish)

I agree it's probably the jiggle valve orientation. I bought a 4runner in October and according to my obdII reader it was running 202-208F with ambient temps in the 30s F. Shity thing is this truck had all its service done at a local Toyota dealer. Timing belt, water pump and T-stat completed 40k miles ago. I ordered a new thermostat and sure enough the old t-stat jiggle valve was at 12 o'clock. Installed the new one at 6 o'clock and temps are now consistently 185-193F

Is your radiator clean? Is your cap on the radiator building pressure. Might be bad radiator cap not building pressure too. These radiator caps are known to go bad in time.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

ya its clean, nothing blocking air flow, and fins are all straight.

Agreed that the stat is most likely the culprit. Might as well do the rad cap too, and change out the anti freeze if the mileage is unknown since your there already changing out the stat.

new fluid two years ago. tstat on the way, radiator cap en route as well.

SG2 has my engine temps at 188-191 year round, even with OD off doing 75mph up mountains in the summer ~90 outside. When I bought it I did install new water pump, thermostat, radiator, and flushed the cooling system before refilling with toyota red.

My 96 I had put the jiggle valve at 12 and it ran the same 184-191. My 97’s I put at 6.

Saying it’s the jiggle valve position is one thing but you are also replacing the t-stat with a new one. Not relocating the vent position of the same t-stat.

A new rad cap isn’t going to make it run cooler unless it’s low on coolant. But running temps above boiling point will cause problems without the pressure.


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not low on coolant, checked that yesterday.

That was my thought too. Take off the cap and look down at the fins. If they are corroded (no shiny metal) you need to replace the radiator. Corrosion prevents a good liquid to air heat exchange from the radiator.

shiny as can be.

 

[brillo_76]

Have your cap raditor cap tested.