Engine swap journey begins!

I don't recall swapping the harness to be awful. Get an OEM valve. I put in an aftermarket one and it's starting to feel notchy when moving the lever.
 
T4R2014 said:
I don't recall swapping the harness to be awful. Get an OEM valve. I put in an aftermarket one and it's starting to feel notchy when moving the lever.
Click to expand...

I'm assuming everything else should plug right in (injectors other sensors etc)?

I guess its not that big of deal if I have to just swap the harnesses. Both engines will be on stands so taking the intake manifolds off shouldn't be too bad.

Will I need a new intake manifold gasket? Any other surprises?
 
I got the rear main seal replaced tonight and I resealed the seal housing.

I started pulling the wiring harness off the donor and I got it removed from the passenger side.

Can I removed the entire intake manifold in one piece or do I have to take the top manifold off first than the bottom?

What gaskets need replacing in doing so?

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You have to do upper then lower. It uses the same gasket for each location. You can probably re-use the gaskets, but if you want to replace, the PN is 17177-62060.

-Charlie
 
So far it looks like all of the connectors are the same between the two wiring harnesses but some of the wires are different colors. Hopefully that doesn't matter.

I've done a search and couldn't find more than a few instances of people having to switch over wiring harness between motors. Some said everything plugs in fine and a couple said there were a few things they had to switch.

I'm doing my best to label everything but I'm at the point now where some vacuum hoses and stuff is disconnected on both ends. Hopefully I can piece this project all back together!
 
Everything should be basically the same on the engine side, it will be the ECU and under-dash connections that are different. I used a '97 parts truck to do the 4WD swap on my '99, so I have some personal experience with this...

-Charlie
 
phattyduck said:
Everything should be basically the same on the engine side, it will be the ECU and under-dash connections that are different. I used a '97 parts truck to do the 4WD swap on my '99, so I have some personal experience with this...

-Charlie
Click to expand...

So as long as I'm swapping the harnesses on the engine side, I shouldn't have to do anything inside the vehicle correct?

I know that seems obvious but I just want to make sure. I don't want any more surprises (doubt that....lol).
 
thegipper said:
So as long as I'm swapping the harnesses on the engine side, I shouldn't have to do anything inside the vehicle correct?

I know that seems obvious but I just want to make sure. I don't want any more surprises (doubt that....lol).
Click to expand...

Just making it clear, you are swapping the 97 harness to the 99 engine, correct? You don't need to be looking at wire colors if you're doing this. I did this years ago with a 99 engine in my 96.
 
sub'd to this thread
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T4R2014 said:
Just making it clear, you are swapping the 97 harness to the 99 engine, correct? You don't need to be looking at wire colors if you're doing this. I did this years ago with a 99 engine in my 96.
Click to expand...
Yes, that is the plan.

I'm essentially doing exactly what you did but a 99 motor into my 97.

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So on my 99 (4x4 multimode, Cali emissions), I put in a motor from a 99 2wd Fed and the harness was pulled with the motor. The new harness (2wd Fed) did not match up with my truck.
If I remember correctly the AFR sensor wire didn't match up and the transmission section was totally different, was hoping it was on a separate harness. So, there are likely different harnesses for every possible combo of engine and trans between the years.
 
So I just went through this and I'll add something else. I didn't mess with the ADD connector on mine when I swapped it. I tried to remove as little as humanly possible. For the bellhousing bolts up top I used about 6 wobble extensions and a 17mm Wobble socket and impacted them for about a minute each to finally break them loose. I honestly thought they weren't going to come out. I would also highly recommend that you skip headers. Complete pain in the ass even out, and mine leaks out of every single connection. Biggest mistake of my engine replacement, other than that I should have gone 2UZ swap instead...

Here's some info and pics from mine:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/231681-build-thread-mothra-blown-budget-camping-rig-13.html#post2885829
 
I know the transmission plugs will be fine since I already have the 99 tranny in my truck.

So far all of the other plugs appear to be the same. I've pulled two transmissions from these trucks now so I got the bell housing bolts figured out. Thanks for the tips though!

I have no intention of messing with the exhaust other than removing the three bolts on the down pipe.

Any tips on getting the motor back in and lined up?
 
I have pretty much info in my 1997 SR5 Build and repair thread.

I put the engine in all by myself with a 30 year old cherry picker with bent casters. So you got this. The pain in the arse was getting the angle of the engine correct to slip over the alignment dowels on the trans.

Don't let the torque converter come out. If you do you should replace its bushing and seal.


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Small update.

I got the harness pulled through the firewall, exhaust unbolted without anything breaking (WTH?), inspection plate and flex plate bolts removed, starter removed, and all of the transmission connections unplugged.

So in theory, I have the bell housing bolts and the four motor mount bolts to do tomorrow and she's ready to be pulled.

I also finally got the cam seals and the front main seal in the mail today. Got them installed on the donor motor. I also installed new heater hoses for the two rear hoses that are a pain to get to by the firewall. Lots of other new parts to install still.

I'll keep you guys updated.
 
Pulling the engine out of the wrecked 96 i broke every exhaust stud. On the 97 all the nuts came off easy. I reused the nuts putting the 96 engine in the 97 SR5 and still kick myself for not getting nuts at the hardware store that I know won't rip the threads off the studs or just snap them.


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