Ever had a CV break like this? [reposting from TTORA]

[nilson]

So I am trying to undertake my first CV swap, and it seems as if I've encountered the worst f-in way for it to snap... The very inner tip of the axle has sheared off at the snap-ring. Obviously the misalignment of the splines leaves me with the problem of pulling a square block through a round hole.

Anyone got suggestions other than dropping the diff?

Let me illustrate with a few pictures:

And the broken axle:

Compared to the new unit:

Help please!

 

[sn0wrunner]

Yep I've seen this before. Let me guess its an aftermarket axle bought from checker?

You are going to drill a hole into it and put a thread into it. Then put a bolt into it so you can have a grip on it to pull it out.

Major PITA.

EDIT: Taking a 2nd look, is that piece pushed all the way back in there?

 

[nilson]

Yep I've seen this before. Let me guess its an aftermarket axle bought from checker?

You are going to drill a hole into it and put a thread into it. Then put a bolt into it so you can have a grip on it to pull it out.

Major PITA.

Thanks for the idea. Sounds really fun!

I have no idea about the history of the axles on this truck... I bought it with 202,000miles and the original sparkplugs, barely running if that gives you an idea of its past...

I can say that the OD of the shaft is noticeably smaller on the old unit than the new, but that may be from the boot clamp riding on the axle for a thousand miles or so (it looks like it's been milled down).

 

[the great him]

Yep I've seen this before. Let me guess its an aftermarket axle bought from checker?

You are going to drill a hole into it and put a thread into it. Then put a bolt into it so you can have a grip on it to pull it out.

Major PITA.

i dont think he can do that, if you look inside the shaft tube, its laying sideways inside the diff. he is gonna have to pull the diff crack open the case and pull it out, and sense your there you may as well toss in a locker and or at least regear. good luck and yeah stay away from cheep aftermarket CVs,

 

[sn0wrunner]

yeah my method wont work here. Sorry dude!

This is where the one broke off that I was referring to. So all the splines were still in there all lined up.

 

[Gerdo]

It does look like it is turned sideways. The only way it could turn is if it is actually broken into a few pieces. This shouldn't be too hard to get out. I'm guessing that the snap ring is still in it's groove. You are going to need to do some digging with something like dental tools and forceps. Pop the ring out and grab the pieces of axle.

I don't think it'll be that big of a pain. You may have to get the pieces to rotate so they can come out.

I would also try some recovery magnets like the small ones on the ends of telescoping shafts (like an antenna). http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=SER2593_0293963882

*** It is advisable to make a tube out of some thick paper to bridge the gap between the axle intermediate shaft (the axle in the diff) and the seal. Try not to drop junk into the housing.***

 

[nilson]

It's hard to see in there, but that chunk is free to rotate around a bit. I can manipulate it with a screwdriver, but it wont pull out obviously. I am going to be replacing both CVs because the other is probably the same junk. I'll have to play with it a bit in the daylight.

I read a few concerns with Advanced Auto GSP axles binding at full droop... can anyone confirm that this is still the case? I've only bought the passenger side one so far, but it is a GSP from Advance.

I am very tempted to just drop the diff out because of the chance it's half-full of sand :/ How huge of an ordeal is that? This isn't my DD so it can sit on the stands for a bit.

I broke this one trying to be recovered from a creek, wheels turned at droop.

 

[glenyoshida]

You can get a used third for around $300 - $400. I'd suggest swapping it out. That's pretty crazy how the inner shaft twisted and turned sideways. Pretty rad dude! You could try drilling and tapping it so you can put a bolt in it to try and remove the broken piece but you are going to be drilling into hardened steel and it looks like the splines in the diff are likely damaged so in the end it's likely you would need to drop the diff and replace it anyway. The front third isn't as hard to remove as you might think.

Try and remove the broken piece first though. You might get lucky so it's worth a shot to at least try and pry it out. It's already jacked so you don't have anything to lose.

It's a good idea to get two bodies under the rig and bench press the differential while you rotate it slightly to get it out (and put it back in). That's by far the easiest way I've found. Using a floor jack just turns into an alignment nightmare. You'll need a really big allen key. I forgot what size but if I can remember I'll go check and see what size it is and repost.

I broke three axles in the differential. Oh what fun it is to fix stuff right? That's why I'm working on custom axles. I'm tired of replacing stuff.

edit: It's a 12mm allen wrench for the front diff.

 

[Gerdo]

This is what happens with the auto store junk axles. Buy some Toyota OE rebuilds. We get them a CV/driveline shop.

 

[nilson]

The splines do not seem to be damaged.. this chunk seems to be farther in that the splines extend, and I can not see any kind of deformation or damage in there. I am pretty sure that the snap ring is actually on the other side of that small chunk and stuff got shaken up while I was trying to drive home. I can easily make the little piece stand up so the drill+tap method may have a chance of working...


Edit: still a good chance something may be screwed up in there though, as the snap ring does look to be in its place. Gonna have to go check in the daytime... I hate the cold

 

[glenyoshida]

Sweet!!! I hope that's the case. It'll save ya some work for sure. If you get it out it might be a good idea to go fishing with a pick up magnet for broken pieces.

Hey Gerdo, that craptastic axle looks familiar Thanks again for all your help on that. I was seriously bummed to see the other part sheered off in the diff.

 

[nilson]

Whatever I end up doing, it'll get a good flushing with solvents and fresh oil.

Really appreciate the help guys. I'll update tomorrow.

 

[Gerdo]

Sweet!!! I hope that's the case. It'll save ya some work for sure. If you get it out it might be a good idea to go fishing with a pick up magnet for broken pieces.

Hey Gerdo, that craptastic axle looks familiar Thanks again for all your help on that. I was seriously bummed to see the other part sheered off in the diff.

:thumb3:

 

[Singtoe]

You will have to break the front diff down. No ifs ands or buts about it. Don't wast your time trying to remove it be cause you will still need to get the lock ring out, you will still need to flush the diff out to get all the shavings and broken bits out.

Good luck.

 

[nilson]

Alright, as of this point both front CVs are pulled and the swaybar is gone for good. I plan to rebuild or replace the steering rack before it goes back in. I have the FSM, but I'd like to ask for any tips on removing the rack. I'm about to bust apart the tierod-spindle joint now.

Thanks for the help folks! Gonna get this baby in good shape before I sew 'er up.


PS Hurricane High Gravity is some strong ****... 16oz @ 8.1% will sneak up on ya ;-)

 

[Gerdo]

Well did you get the pieces out?

 

[nilson]

The diff is coming out as soon as I get another body over to help remove it. I'm finishing the prep work tonight. Just removing all the other stuff. I'm replacing both lower control arms and balljoints, as well as both upper balljoints. I'm going to disassemble the frontend and I'm seriosly thinking about a lockrite in the frontend before I throw 'er back together. A bad idea with IFS? I dont plan to take this truck past like 34" tires with IFS, and I dont try to do much in the way of rockcrawling; I like to ride intermediate-type trails involving a lot of water crossings and wet rocky hills... She'll be a toy when I am making a lot more money ;-)

The steering rack is going to be either rebuilt or replaced, depending on the condition of the internals. I've never taken this type of stuff apart before, but I'm comfortable with what I'm doing. Just trying to delay the work and ask for lazytips

I ran a lockrite in a '03 Tacoma PreRunner for about two years so I'm very farmiliar with the behavior of it. I thought it was a badass investment for that truck. Helped out tremendously! I'm in love with the rear e-locker on this 4Runner.



EDIT: My first experience with working on vehicles whatsoever, including installing my lockrite in that PreRunner... Thanks to Ernie and Rick of AL-TTORA for that. I was only 16 with a 2-wheel-drive but these guys were glad to help me out. I am very appreciative of all the Toyota groups that are online. Very awesome.


I rebuilt this 'Runner from the firewall-forward after a major front-end-collission. Very minor frame damage but the wheels had a good impact. The frame rails forward of the radiator were deflected inward by about 2.5", bending the forward crossmember. I heated and striaghted the forward part of the frame and welded in a new undamaged crossbar from a 98 `Runner.

I've had alignment issues, and I have it worked on at a local shop that I trust. They say they are pretty sure my passengers side LCA is bent, so I am going to replace both with undamaged ones off my parts truck.

EDIT2: I have a bad feeling that I need to get it on a frame rack to fully resolve any alignment issues, but I hope not.

 

[Gerdo]

I think Pikeman Toyota 4Runner Forum - View Profile: Pikeman is running an Aussie Locker in his front. Hopefully he will chime in with the pros and cons of it.

We also need some pics of your progress.

 

[glenyoshida]

I don't think a Lockright in the front is a good idea. You've already proven that you wheel hard enough to break an axle. That being the case you will likely only break more with a non-selectable locker in front. At least you don't have to worry about snow there.

You will also likely encounter steering difficulties as it locks up when you don't it to. Just my $0.02

 

[nilson]

Didn't think of the issues with ADD and the steering... Seems like it could be a real issue though if the locker will engage without any pinion torque.


EDIT: 3WD is sufficient in most places I go, but with locked 4WD I think I could crawl up stuff better and have less shock forces on the drivetrain. I know that steering + torque will snap these CVs in an instant, so that's why I'm not sure. A front elocker would be golden!