Exhaust crossover pipe madness

[toyotaspeed90]

I have a 97 Limited I just completed a manual trans and J shift swap, and swapped the engine from an SR5. Motor was on a stand and all (except oil pan) gaskets swapped.

Upon install I made a small mistake and attached the bracket for the down pipe to the engine before tightening down the crossover pipe to the down pipe, stripping threads in 1 stud.

Decided to fix it today, boy was I wrong.


5 hours later... using cheater bars on vice grips with heat(whittling the stud down until it snapped)...

Once it snapped there were threads only protruding from the top - went through almost 10 nuts being welded to the stud only for the stud to slowly tear away.

I'm now stuck with a portion of the stud stuck sunken from both directions.


Decided to just take the crossover pipe. Somehow even though I JUST pulled these bolts 2 gave grief and 1 snapped. Fine.

Got it loose... only for it to look like the crossover pipe had to come down past the downpipe.

Begrudgingly cut the exhaust in 2 spots to make room... and.. nope.


How the $$$$ does this stupid pipe come out?

I'm at my wits end, on the verge of selling the truck. I'm over it and it seems the only way to repair this God forsaken crossover pipe is to drop the transmission or remove the engine. I can, but I'm beyond pissed if that's the case.

What am I missing?

 

[toyotaspeed90]

I am recalling a similar issue on an FJ62 I had (except the parts came out of the vehicle) where my resolution was to cut through the side of the flange and stud, break out what is left - chase the threads, use a longer stud and put a nut on the backside.

Unless someone with experience has a better idea.

 

[RandyBobandy]

So I am guessing you are referring to the studs on the crossover pipe where the pipe containing the cat bolts on? If so I just drilled out the broken one and replaced it with a bolt, easy 20 minute repair that has held up well. If it can’t be accessed with a drill you can cut the side of the flange to get it out, might not be the most professional technique but it works well and by the books exhaust repair isn’t always an option

What pipe did you cut? Hopefully not the crossover. If you did and you need to remove the crossover your best bet is to try and unbolt the transmission cross member so you can drop the rear of the trans enough to slide it out and slide a new one in, if that doesn’t give you enough room you will have to drop the transmission.

If you did cut the crossover you could also consider getting a set of headers that eliminates that pipe, although that will be your most expensive option and it’s said to be a pretty tough job

 

[brillo_76]

Man this is sounding very bad when it shouldn't have been. I agree with Randy on this one. +1

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[gamefreakgc]

You do have to separate the transmission. It can stay on jacks but yes, it does have to move. No way to get it out otherwise.

 

[toyotaspeed90]

I agree this should have been a rudimentary slight pain but back together.

5 hours on 1 bolt is not normal, and I've had some rusty rigs (FJ40, FJ62) and a ton of Toyota experience.

I did not cut the crossover pipe. The downpipe to cat bolts were frozen (normal) so I cut after the cat... which did not give enough room so cut between cat and downpipe.

Either way I have some welding.


I cut the side of the flange to get the remaining stud/bolt out.

 

[brillo_76]

I put stainless bolts and nuts in all the flanges after the cat. They always come out.


The 3 header nuts that's on the down pipe that has one or 2 cats on depending the year. Are special single use nuts.

However, if you remove the studs and drill them out. [ because of damage or snapping off etc ] You may wish to put stainless bolts and nuts there so you can get it apart in the future if need be.

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