Exhaust pipe broke off? Help

[dnath28]

Great, thanks for all the help guys... Here is my amazon cart...

Walker 31384 Exhaust Gasket by Walker QTY 2

Walker 54681 Quiet-Flow Stainless Steel Muffler Assembly by Walker


My question - If I only buy the Muffler assembly - Does this count as my muffler and tailpipe? Confused on why I would only need this - Does the muffler have on it enough extension to get it to where my exhaust needs to come out?

I guess I will order this and if I need more pipe just order it as I inspect the rest of the exhaust.

Hopefully the hardware will be easy to locate at home depot - I am a rookie with that kind of stuff - Can I just bring in the muffler to match bolts to it? Also is there a link to how to install this?

Thanks for all the help!

 

[jeremyc74]

Toss one of these in your cart too and it will make it easier to size the bolts. Plus it's handy to have around for all sorts of projects.

http://www.amazon.com/DrillSpot-Bol...TF8&qid=1430167163&sr=8-1&keywords=bolt+gauge

You might get lucky and find metric hardware that will work at your local hardware store, but it's possible you'll have to resort to standard stuff. Most of them stock some metric nuts and bolts, but the selection isn't as good.

 

[96LTDrus]

No the tailpipe is a separate piece. If you are able to get the rusty bolts off and the flanges separated, you can use the one you have in your photos (that has the piece of muffler stuck to it). Yes you can probably substitute some hardware in from Home Depot, although Napa will also have the correct automotive grade bolts for that exact exhaust work. Make sure to scrape off and clean the old flanges to remove old gasket material, otherwise you may not get a good seal.

 

[Ed_C]

Hopefully the hardware will be easy to locate at home depot - I am a rookie with that kind of stuff - Can I just bring in the muffler to match bolts to it? Also is there a link to how to install this?

Yes,bring the new muffler and the original tailpipe with you. There's no need to get metric hardware, the flanges are not threaded,whatever fits the holes will do.

Installation is pretty straightforward. Spray the rubber hangers with WD40 to ease removal. Cut off the old hardware connecting the muffler to the middle pipe and the broken off pipe still connected to the tailpipe. Scrape off the old gaskets. Install new parts.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

For what it's worth I'd buy a new tailpipe section too.

I used stainless hardware to put everything back together on the 96.

 

[96LTDrus]

For what it's worth I'd buy a new tailpipe section too.

I used stainless hardware to put everything back together on the 96.

Agreed.

 

[jeremyc74]

Yes,bring the new muffler and the original tailpipe with you. There's no need to get metric hardware, the flanges are not threaded,whatever fits the holes will do.

.

I try and stick with metric hardware for everything because I don't carry standard tools with me and there's nothing worse than having a whole set of tools and still not having what you need. But you're right, they should all be through holes so standard stuff will work.

 

[dnath28]

Installation is pretty straightforward. Spray the rubber hangers with WD40 to ease removal. Cut off the old hardware connecting the muffler to the middle pipe and the broken off pipe still connected to the tailpipe. Scrape off the old gaskets. Install new parts.

So there is a connection from the tail pipe (The very rear of car) before it reaches the connection of the new muffler I will be putting on? I did not know that...

Rear of car ==(connection)===(connection)==(muffler)(connection)===


Lol if that diagram makes sense... is that what you are stating Ed?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

There are three pieces to the exhaust. But for all "intents and purposes" there are only two section after the CAT that make up the exhaust.

There is a 2 bolt flange after the CAT if the system is factory and know one scabbed in a weld in muffler. First after the CAT is the muffler section. Second is the tail pipe section with another 2 bolt flange.

I would spend the extra and get the tail pipe section and replace both at the same time. Then you are done screwing with the exhaust for a while. Using 1/2 drive ratchet it's easy to brake off the rusted bolts to take everything apart. Then just slip off the rubber hangers and put the new system on with new gaskets. I put a wire wheel to the CAT flange to clean it up and purchased new hanger rubber and did it all at once.

6 months later a girl blew a red light and totaled it.

 

[Ed_C]

I try and stick with metric hardware for everything because I don't carry standard tools with me and there's nothing worse than having a whole set of tools and still not having what you need. But you're right, they should all be through holes so standard stuff will work.

Good point about metric. It's funny the new hardware I used for my cat replacement,although metric threads,required a 13mm for the front O2 sensor and 18mm for the cat flanges instead of the usual 12mm and 14mm tools.

So there is a connection from the tail pipe (The very rear of car) before it reaches the connection of the new muffler I will be putting on? I did not know that...

Rear of car ==(connection)===(connection)==(muffler)(connection)===


Lol if that diagram makes sense... is that what you are stating Ed?

See how there's a small section of exhaust pipe between the 54681 muffler and 54081 tail pipe? That section of pipe broke off on your original muffler and is still bolted to your tailpipe,need to remove it.

This is a different brand replacement muffler,but shows the small section of pipe coming out the right side.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

If you don't have California emissions the second cat length is part of the muffler section.

 

[dnath28]

See how there's a small section of exhaust pipe between the 54681 muffler and 54081 tail pipe? That section of pipe broke off on your original muffler and is still bolted to your tailpipe,need to remove it.

This is a different brand replacement muffler,but shows the small section of pipe coming out the right side.

Got it now - So I will disconnect it there and find the hard ware for that portion to connect existing tail pipe to Muffler.

Thanks for the Help Ed. The parts are arriving next week to my house.

Ill be doing my A/F Sensor (Bank 1 sensor 1?) and also my o2 sensor as well (Bank 2?). Trying to get my check engine light off along with the VSC TRAC lights that are on - While Im down there fixing the exhaust!

 

[MrBunnyRunner]

Nothing magical to add other than a "me too" for the tailpipe sheering off at the muffler.

This truck is niceling and diming me to death! First, a battery after 12-years and now a tailpipe, ugh.


Muffler shop wanted over $600 for new, sounds like the Walker doesn't last more than 2-years in the rust belt, so I ended up with the Gibson black tip for ~$350 from Summit. I'll install this weekend after it warms up.

 

[catrains]

Can someone point me to a link with a basic muffler and tail pipe set up that they would go with? Just looking for same part to replace, no upgrade or anything here.. I searched google and theres too many options.

Let me know

yes stainless steel exhaust is over kill if we live in Florida !!!
So since your in rust belt like me use stainless steel metal .. if you use steel the pipe/muffler will rust out from the inside and out.. cold weather like NOW a load of water stays in the exhaust pipes..

I would find a cat back stainless exhaust and you can put it on ..

should be good for another 10 yrs in rust belt . also look at the rubber supports for and damage also..

do not keep engine running parked , with that pipe issue as CO will cause you to get hurt.

 

[Lastplace]

I bought the Walker and was going to install myself. Upon the advice of a friend I took it to a muffler shop, $125 to install. Said the had to grind it to get it to fit correctly. Working under car with a rusty muffler can be a pita, glad I had it installed. The Walker sounds nice.