maclean216
Member
Any updates?
External Resi Coilovers... Not King, Icon, Fox, SAW, or Radflo
- Thread starter FreshSeabass
- Start date
Red October
Member
Forgive me if its listed someplace here and i missed it :brick:
What part number are the shocks you are using here?
What part number are the shocks you are using here?
Honestly we probably couldn't tell the difference even if we rode in two different set ups. Unless we were doing baja or something.
I believe [MENTION=63487]A.Wilson013[/MENTION] wrode in both set ups and he currently owns ICON. He said he could not tell the difference. Both were smooth when going fast!
I like the rubber bushing/bump stop on the shaft.
A.Wilson013
New member
It's true that I have been unable to tell (feel) the difference between two VERY similar 3rd gen 4Runners, one with Kings, one with Icons. Around town the ride is pretty rough, and on the same stretches of washboarded out, rough dirt roads, they feel the same to me- getting smoother the faster you go, and the faster the piston gets pumping.
Even riding in a long travel 2nd gen Tacoma with King coilovers and shocks I truly felt no difference on the same crappy road. Around town it felt a bit nicer (see also: softer) but once we were bombing down the road over the washboards it felt arguably the same to me. So similar, in fact, that any plans for long travel (for me) went out the door.
I'm of the opinion that unless you're hitting whoops, bumps, and jumps like an Ultra 4 racer, it won't matter.
AssBurns
New member
I haven't been in both to really feel the difference but on small stuff and around town it shouldn't be that noticeable. From what I have read about the two, it has more to do with hitting the real big stuff like whoops, bumps and jumps. Progressive will get stiffer throughout and help keep you from bottoming out as easy where as digressive would soften up on those big impacts. I would say if you plan to hit big stuff often, get progressive shocks. If big stuff isn't something your truck will see much of, get digressive.
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A.Wilson013
New member
Regardless of these being digressive or progressive, are they valved for a 4Runner...?
I'm thinking that's less than likely by the need to "ream" the lower mounting hole and purchase a top plate.
Or will you be re-valving them when you take them apart to replace that hose fitting?
Sure an Icon setup is spendy, but once you buy the reservoir mounts, the top plate, springs and the right hose fitting you're looking at another ~$400 (depending on the prices you're able to find.
Then, for the average user (I don't know if you're doing it yourself or not) you're looking at at least another couple hundred dollars to have these brand new units completely disassembled in order to have the new hose fittings installed, the mis-matched springs installed, and the lower mount "reamed" to fit.
For the average user, that's a good bit of down time, the hassle of finding a shop that will do the work (and do it correctly) and the cost of time and fuel to drop them off and pick them up.
So if you paid $360 (which the average user will not be paying- they're "on sale" for $483.55 each at DSM right now) you're looking at (if you do the work) an extra ~$400 and hours of labor to get something working for your vehicle.
If you don't do the work you're looking at at least an extra $600.
If you buy them at retail you'll be over the cost of an Icon, King, or Fox setup by the time you have them ready to run. In fact, if you ordered through a place like Total Automotive you'd likely be able to purchase an Icon setup with remote reservoirs and the CDC valving.
And they would come assembled, ready to run, to your door.
I'm thinking that's less than likely by the need to "ream" the lower mounting hole and purchase a top plate.
Or will you be re-valving them when you take them apart to replace that hose fitting?
Sure an Icon setup is spendy, but once you buy the reservoir mounts, the top plate, springs and the right hose fitting you're looking at another ~$400 (depending on the prices you're able to find.
Then, for the average user (I don't know if you're doing it yourself or not) you're looking at at least another couple hundred dollars to have these brand new units completely disassembled in order to have the new hose fittings installed, the mis-matched springs installed, and the lower mount "reamed" to fit.
For the average user, that's a good bit of down time, the hassle of finding a shop that will do the work (and do it correctly) and the cost of time and fuel to drop them off and pick them up.
So if you paid $360 (which the average user will not be paying- they're "on sale" for $483.55 each at DSM right now) you're looking at (if you do the work) an extra ~$400 and hours of labor to get something working for your vehicle.
If you don't do the work you're looking at at least an extra $600.
If you buy them at retail you'll be over the cost of an Icon, King, or Fox setup by the time you have them ready to run. In fact, if you ordered through a place like Total Automotive you'd likely be able to purchase an Icon setup with remote reservoirs and the CDC valving.
And they would come assembled, ready to run, to your door.
if you valve them to softer setting will it be better in town, the icons
A.Wilson013
New member
Yes, of course.
FreshSeabass
New member
Looking real good, that reservoir is a beast! I'm thinking doing a similar setup pretty soon. Was the picture taken at full droop without limit straps?
FreshSeabass
New member
I will make a post today or tomorrow!
FreshSeabass
New member
Yes that was full droop no straps... YET. Anyone know if these have been run on a 4Runner ever before?
FreshSeabass
New member
Tomorrow... (or I guess later today) I will test out a bit of the full compression of these CO's and see where I am bump-wise! I am still waiting to fork out money to finish the front end off with front bumpstops and limiting straps! So far around town the CO's have been far smoother with small bumps over the previous Toytec Ultimate CO's. Over larger bumps the improvement is even more exaggerated, the rebound is more controlled and the front end of the 4Runner seems to make its way back to ride height without any bouncing whatsoever. In other words, rebound feels DIALED right away, that has been the stand out improvement! Other than that, my springs tend to creak quite a lot more than before. We just had some snow and salt on the roads which can be a factor, but I have washed the rig since then with little improvement. I am also making sure to lubricate the rod ends on the CO frequently along with my UCA's. 
I got a bit creative over the college break and decided to make a long overdue change ...
All done! :dancin:
I got a bit creative over the college break and decided to make a long overdue change ...
All done! :dancin:
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FreshSeabass
New member
FreshSeabass
New member
Bump??
Got to run the 4R through a ditch today...
Near full bump and still travel left (hard to see)
Lots of flex!! 
About 1 1/4" shock left before extended bumps.
Droop maxed out! 
Overall very pleased with the front end and rear end equally. I was surprised at the travel amount on the front (useable travel.
Extended bump stops should take care of how close the shock is to maxing out!
I will try to upload a video of the CO's over bumps and the rebound of the 4R.
Got to run the 4R through a ditch today...
Near full bump and still travel left (hard to see)
Lots of flex!! About 1 1/4" shock left before extended bumps. Droop maxed out! Overall very pleased with the front end and rear end equally. I was surprised at the travel amount on the front (useable travel.
Extended bump stops should take care of how close the shock is to maxing out!
I will try to upload a video of the CO's over bumps and the rebound of the 4R.
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FreshSeabass
New member
Very much aware of that. It's worth the amount of money I saved on these. I practically got these for free.
