Extra 12v accessory outlet

Myrunr2010

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So I'm planning to put a few extra 12v accessory outlets in the 4runner to aid in running gps, iPod, charge the phone etc. This thread is where I got the original idea

Adding Extra Accessory Outlets - 3rd Gen 4Runner - YotaTech Forums

My question is, is it really necessary to run the power all the way to the battery?!?! This is the outlets I bought.
 

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You can easily get a splitter to run a GPS and Ipod/phone charger. I have one installed and it is plugged into the original 12 V outlet. I got the splitter from ebay and it also comes with a USB adapter. This is more important as many electrical devices are now on USB based charger cable.

If you still wish to attach the 12 V output you bought, I'd say simply connect it to your existing 12V power outlet.
 
Yeah, I considered that, but I think it will look more clean doing it this way. So to answer my question, no I do not need to run it all the way to the battery and no I don't need an extra fuse?
 
Yes you need to fuse it and as long as you don't try to suck too much power out of it you can just tap off of the existing Cig lighter
 
I'd either run it to the battery, or tap into the fuse box with an add a circuit.

Reason behind this, is because the wires are like 20ga wire. The original 12v have a "fuse" I'm them, which stops the wiring from melting of something gets to hot.

Those wires are either 18, MAYBE 16ga.

Dissipates the heat and allows more amps.

But, in the end, run it to the battery WITH an inline fuse, or do an add-a-circuit into the fuse box.
 
The back of the box has instructions for replacing the fuse, says to replace it with a 10a 250v fuse. So I'm assuming it's got a built in fuse in it somewhere
 
I ran an extra outlet(similar to the one in your picture) from the battery, through the firewall, across to the center area under the dash, and under the carpet to the console storage box. I used 12G automotive red/black zip cord, and installed a water resistant ATX fuse/holder up near the battery end. 20 or 30 amp fuse is OK...tons of power.
I might, in the future, do a similar run to maybe 3 or 4 outlets in the dash under the radio.
 
I was going to do the same thing until I realized it isn't worth the hassle. I bought one of these with low expectations but it has never let me down. I just ordered a 2nd one for my 1996 Tacoma.

I agree, if you're short on time, your solution is pretty good.
It was important to me to have a power outlet that is not switched, and always on, for charging camera batteries and such.
 
So I'm planning to put a few extra 12v accessory outlets in the 4runner to aid in running gps, iPod, charge the phone etc. This thread is where I got the original idea

Adding Extra Accessory Outlets - 3rd Gen 4Runner - YotaTech Forums

My question is, is it really necessary to run the power all the way to the battery?!?! This is the outlets I bought.

Tap the cig. You'll just me limited to the 20amp total before you blow the fuse. It kinda defeat your purpose off running more accessories though? Just run a dual USB charger off the old cig.

Your total amp draw will determine if you need to run a wire or piggyback. Fuse everything you add coming off the battery direct.
 
Tap the cig. You'll just me limited to the 20amp total before you blow the fuse. It kinda defeat your purpose off running more accessories though? Just run a dual USB charger off the old cig.

Your total amp draw will determine if you need to run a wire or piggyback. Fuse everything you add coming off the battery direct.

What types of amp draw does a lot of this stuff have? I'm really looking at doing just the iPod, charging a phone and running the gps
 
What types of amp draw does a lot of this stuff have? I'm really looking at doing just the iPod, charging a phone and running the gps

No idea dude. I run a dual USB off one Sig. Always have 2 things plugged it. It was only a couple amps as far as I know.
 
Mmm, ok. Decisions decisions. I'm planning to add 3 of them so I can run the gps, charge the wife and I's phones, and then run the ipod (still do the old school running it through a fuzzy radio station) while on road trips. I feel like that's pushing the brink of being too much if they run around 2 but have a max of 5.
 
Ok. So let me get this straight.

You want to add 2-3 of those accessory 12v outlets? Yet you're questioning running straight to the battery?

Telling you from experience, the battery is the best place to get power from, and it's NOT painful to do so.

You might need a few more things, but it's your best bet.

You can run the outlets to a switch so that you can power them independently, so nothin will drain your battery if you leave it plugged in.
 
After reading that write up, he did it absolutely right.

My suggestion to you, is to do this:

Get about 15 feet of 14-16ga power wire.

Get about 5 feet of 12ga ground wire.

Get a small fuse box from any parts store, you can get them in single, or multiple fuses.

You'll want some shrink wrap/electrical tape, and some connectors.

You're also going to want to get a in-line fuse, to put between the battery and the other fuse box. Say a 30 amp, depending on the fuse box rating.

From there, run the power wire through the firewall towards the battery.

Wire the positive wire to the fuse box. Then, you can connect each outlet to that fuse box.

Like I said before, those devices don't pull more than 5amps(USUALLY), so get a 5-10amp fuse for each outlet.

Join the ground wires together, then put them on the 12ga ground wire, finding a good place to secure the ground wire. There's multiple places to do this under the dash, or close to the point of where you're mounting the outlets.

You're done. Easy peasy.
 
I think I'm mostly avoiding going to the battery because that means extra cost, even though it won't be more than a couple bucks. That and the pain of going through the firewall.

You mean an inline switch like a physical switch on the dash or somehow tapped into the other wires so its not running constantly? The bike is my daily driver so sometimes the 4runner can sit for a bit before being driven.

The outlets came with an inline 10a fuse on them, so I guess all I would need is the 30a fuse box? That could be mounted under the dash somewhere, correct?
 
If the outlets came with a 10amp fuse, telegenic I would honestly just run them all to the power wire off the battery.

And yes. By a switch I mean a physical switch that will be mounted on the dash or near the switches them self.

Going through the firewall isn't bad.

There is a grommet on drivers side, kinda under the dash, where the harness for the BECU goes through the firewall and towards the fuse box under the hood. Running it through there is easy, and you don't have to worry about making a bunch of cuts or anything.

If you were located in the Eastern part of NC, I'd just tell Ya to come over, and I can make you a panel with all those outlets on it, mount the switch, and run the line for Ya.

Here's a switch box I make out of some Acrylic Plastic, wired, and will be installing. Just have too much shit do do first. It's 7 switches, relays, fuses, ect for all the lights I plan on running.

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I've got an 8ga wire coming in from the battery, and a 6ga going out, both on studs that enter the side of the box. Power straight from the battery, and ground to the dash.
 

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