bearisasquare
New member
Like most of us that have the OEM sub, mine blew and really ruined the music environment of the runner. My goal for replacement was simple. I wanted to keep the OEM look and also add a little power to the system.
I first started with replacing the OEM head unit with the Kenwood DMX906S. It's been a good addition. Has wireless android auto/carplay which was one of the more important features I was interested in.
I then replaced the front speakers with some Infinity components (REF-6530cx). I also sound deadened the front doors. I did have to make some brackets for the new tweeters since there wasn't an aftermarket bracket for them. I was able to use the factory bracket as a base and just added a piece of aluminum for the backing.
The rear speakers (REF-6532ex) were super easy and just drop in with after market brackets. I also went with Infinity. I did not sound deaden the rear doors.
Now, the amp and sub were quite the endeavor. I wish I had done this when the weather was cooler. Getting the flooring up and the panel open in the back really wasn't as much work as I had thought it would be. The videos and explanations people gave made it sound like it would take a couple hours. I got everything opened up in about 45 minutes. My goal was to replace the sub and find an amp that would fit in the same location. While I had everything up, I figured I would add some sound deadening and run extra power to the back for a future fuse block in the back. I went ahead and got the Blue Sea double MRBF fuse block at the battery. One fuse is for the block up front and the other for the amp + fuse block to be added later. I do have a fused distro block at the back as well that will ease hooking this up when i have time for that project.
The factory amp was 9"W x 6"D x 2"H in case you are looking to do the same. I couldn't find that information anywhere. The Kenwood X802-5 I installed is 9-13/16"W x 2"H x 6-3/4"D. It was the closest in size, 5channel amp i could find that wasn't too expensive. I reused the factory bracket on the right side and attached some ABS to it to attach the amp to it directly. I did have to bend down the metal above the fender well so that the wires coming out of the amp weren't at too harsh an angle. I connected directly to the speakers using the diagram and wires that went into the factory amp. I initially planned on installing speaker wire, but after looking at the factory wire it seemed like it was already 16ga so i didn't feel there was a need.
I also did have to trim back the plastic some on the inside of the panel that goes against the amp. The amp sticks out a little bit further than the OEM since its not perfect bracket. This does make a tight fit but after a bit of trimming it fit really well. The RCA cables i ordered (6M in length) were too long, so keep that in mind. I had to run a loop in the middle of the floor and cut back some of the padding so that it fit more flush.
I first started with replacing the OEM head unit with the Kenwood DMX906S. It's been a good addition. Has wireless android auto/carplay which was one of the more important features I was interested in.
I then replaced the front speakers with some Infinity components (REF-6530cx). I also sound deadened the front doors. I did have to make some brackets for the new tweeters since there wasn't an aftermarket bracket for them. I was able to use the factory bracket as a base and just added a piece of aluminum for the backing.
The rear speakers (REF-6532ex) were super easy and just drop in with after market brackets. I also went with Infinity. I did not sound deaden the rear doors.
Now, the amp and sub were quite the endeavor. I wish I had done this when the weather was cooler. Getting the flooring up and the panel open in the back really wasn't as much work as I had thought it would be. The videos and explanations people gave made it sound like it would take a couple hours. I got everything opened up in about 45 minutes. My goal was to replace the sub and find an amp that would fit in the same location. While I had everything up, I figured I would add some sound deadening and run extra power to the back for a future fuse block in the back. I went ahead and got the Blue Sea double MRBF fuse block at the battery. One fuse is for the block up front and the other for the amp + fuse block to be added later. I do have a fused distro block at the back as well that will ease hooking this up when i have time for that project.
The factory amp was 9"W x 6"D x 2"H in case you are looking to do the same. I couldn't find that information anywhere. The Kenwood X802-5 I installed is 9-13/16"W x 2"H x 6-3/4"D. It was the closest in size, 5channel amp i could find that wasn't too expensive. I reused the factory bracket on the right side and attached some ABS to it to attach the amp to it directly. I did have to bend down the metal above the fender well so that the wires coming out of the amp weren't at too harsh an angle. I connected directly to the speakers using the diagram and wires that went into the factory amp. I initially planned on installing speaker wire, but after looking at the factory wire it seemed like it was already 16ga so i didn't feel there was a need.
I also did have to trim back the plastic some on the inside of the panel that goes against the amp. The amp sticks out a little bit further than the OEM since its not perfect bracket. This does make a tight fit but after a bit of trimming it fit really well. The RCA cables i ordered (6M in length) were too long, so keep that in mind. I had to run a loop in the middle of the floor and cut back some of the padding so that it fit more flush.
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