Factory JBL sub enclosure help

[T4RandTacos]

[MENTION=94527]bboy626[/MENTION] thanks man!! That's the picture I couldn't find after hours of forum searching..not too bad, easily can be hidden with a cover or something to "tidy it up" and keep the dawg's paws out of there. Big help.
[MENTION=51033]97BlackAckCL[/MENTION] I've gone through your build a few times lol, the open panel looks great tucked away in that small cubby with the liner but unfortunately my exposed pocket flows up the whole side of the cargo area

 

[97BlackAckCL]

[MENTION=94527]bboy626[/MENTION] thanks man!! That's the picture I couldn't find after hours of forum searching..not too bad, easily can be hidden with a cover or something to "tidy it up" and keep the dawg's paws out of there. Big help.
[MENTION=51033]97BlackAckCL[/MENTION] I've gone through your build a few times lol, the open panel looks great tucked away in that small cubby with the liner but unfortunately my exposed pocket flows up the whole side of the cargo area

Sorry I missed your question up above, you could definitely get by with some mesh or speaker fabric. Maybe get some thin plastic and make your own trim panel with a speaker opening and then just buy a cheap 8" speaker grill and screw it to that. I did something similar in my 4th gen with the pocket door

 

[Hemoglobin]

I would look at the Arc Audio A10 or A12 series or Hybrid Audio Unity shallow over the JL, for the stock location requirement. JL does a lot right but they have no presence in the upper tier car audio. They just advertise well.

 

[Lurkin]

I would look at the Arc Audio A10 or A12 series or Hybrid Audio Unity shallow over the JL, for the stock location requirement. JL does a lot right but they have no presence in the upper tier car audio. They just advertise well.

I hear Arc is great, in fact I'm using some of their stuff for my first audio build in the runner soon. But, I imagine you're talking about custom boxes in the stock location, and this thread is mostly about the factory enclosure which won't fit those. In fact I couldnt find any Arc subs that would fit unfortunately. The A8 is a bit too deep I think.

The JL 8w3 just barely fits, so I think that's why it's brought up often when talking about the factory enclosure. Though, I hear there's an Audison sub that works really well in there, and I may end up trying it.

 

[Hemoglobin]

Ah I was thinking the Arc A10 slim design, but I see it's still .65 sealed. Missed that!

 

[T4RandTacos]

I've got the amp going in just after Christmas and have the Kicker 48CWRT84 Shallow Mount 8" on the way for the swap. I'm going to bridge the rear 2 channels on a 4 channel amp and run about 200W to the sub - just what I need. Front 2 channels will be powering the Kicker 3-way 6x9s in the front door to round everything out. Won't be a perfect solution coming from a true five channel/LC7i/10" system in my F-150, but I think it'll scratch the itch on a budget without taking up any storage room.

In terms of pulling out the rear panel and installing the JBL factory box, anything too cosmic to look out for? All of the videos and step by steps I've seen have the third row (I don't have it), so I'd imagine it would be a different process to yank it out. I'm still in the kid gloves phase so trying to understand what I'm doing before I start pulling out body panels.

 

[97BlackAckCL]

I've got the amp going in just after Christmas and have the Kicker 48CWRT84 Shallow Mount 8" on the way for the swap. I'm going to bridge the rear 2 channels on a 4 channel amp and run about 200W to the sub - just what I need. Front 2 channels will be powering the Kicker 3-way 6x9s in the front door to round everything out. Won't be a perfect solution coming from a true five channel/LC7i/10" system in my F-150, but I think it'll scratch the itch on a budget without taking up any storage room.

In terms of pulling out the rear panel and installing the JBL factory box, anything too cosmic to look out for? All of the videos and step by steps I've seen have the third row (I don't have it), so I'd imagine it would be a different process to yank it out. I'm still in the kid gloves phase so trying to understand what I'm doing before I start pulling out body panels.

If you don't have the third row you'll have a lot less bolts and a lot less crap in the way to remove

 

[T4RandTacos]

If you don't have the third row you'll have a lot less bolts and a lot less crap in the way to remove

"Less bolts" and "less crap" are both good to hear lol

 

[97BlackAckCL]

"Less bolts" and "less crap" are both good to hear lol

For sure man, moving 50 lb seats out of the way is not my favorite part of that rear trunk removal :shocked:

 

[bwhite824]

In terms of pulling out the rear panel and installing the JBL factory box, anything too cosmic to look out for? All of the videos and step by steps I've seen have the third row (I don't have it), so I'd imagine it would be a different process to yank it out. I'm still in the kid gloves phase so trying to understand what I'm doing before I start pulling out body panels.

I just removed my rear panel in a 2016 Trail no 3rd row. You have to remove the rear passenger side seat 3 bolts and the hinge that the seat rides in traps the panel so you have to remove that as well. You also have to pry out the recline lever and there are two bolts in there that need to be removed. I had to remove that flap in the rear (Two bolts that have the tie downs) and the tie down in the far back passenger side. The panel also has 3 bolts in it that need to be removed. It wasnt difficult but i was going at it blind and was surprised how much i actually had to remove to get that panel off.

Almost forgot the rear passenger seat belt lower bolt needs to be removed as well...

 

[eleven01]

Part number clarification

Sorry I’m late to the party…. I had been wanting to put the OEM JBL enclosure in my ol’ 2010 SR5 for many years but couldn’t justify the $400+ price tag…. Well I took a gamble on the 86150-35080 which is significantly less but listed for 2017+ I believe. Showed up today and fits like a glove. Sub was included. I’ll post a pic after it’s finished, but it just required little trimming of the main panel.

So, in case it hasn’t been answered….. The less expensive 35080 includes a sub and fits everything from 2010-present.

 

[97BlackAckCL]

Sorry I’m late to the party…. I had been wanting to put the OEM JBL enclosure in my ol’ 2010 SR5 for many years but couldn’t justify the $400+ price tag…. Well I took a gamble on the 86150-35080 which is significantly less but listed for 2017+ I believe. Showed up today and fits like a glove. Sub was included. I’ll post a pic after it’s finished, but it just required little trimming of the main panel.

So, in case it hasn’t been answered….. The less expensive 35080 includes a sub and fits everything from 2010-present.

Thanks for confirming that's the one that I've been telling everyone to get

 

[4Brewz]

I attempted this. I bought the enclosure (newer one), JLw8v3, alpine amp, and I even bought the whole rear interior quarter panel. It looked great and looked very factory obviously…but… I thought it sounded terrible.

I had a horrible rattle through the quarter panel. I tried laying down some dynamat type stuff all inside the panel and still sounded bad. Not sure what happened, but I took it all back out. I returned the interior panel and sold the enclosure on marketplace.

Love to see someone else successfully do it and it sound good. I thought about getting the taco tunes box but they don’t answer emails. Thought about the audio designs box, though now I use the storage.

Maybe try fiberglassing one myself….

 

[97BlackAckCL]

Surprised to hear that, I have the 8w3v and the stock panel and no rattles whatsoever

 

[damon323]

After doing some research and reading several related threads, I decided to ditch the OEM JBL sub and replace it with a JL8W3. My overall concern was would the sub fit behind the factory JBL panel. I recently blew a dash speaker and already had an Alpine headunit so I decided to replace all the speakers and use a previous 5 channel amp and Audio EQS EQ to do the upgrade. The end result was much much better than the OEM JBL system. For the JL sub, it is pretty much unreal.

I have a background in car audio and have been around the sub block a time our two. My last 4Runner had a JL10W3. The JL8W3 in the OEM enclosure can carry every bit of sound my 10W3 could. It is not just a night and day change, it is a stratosphere above what the OEM sub was. If your vehicle can accommodate the $180 OEM enclosure and you want near over the top sound it is well worth the upgrade. Everything tucked behind the factory panel with room to spare. The 8W3 is powered by an Alpine PDR-V75 5 channel amp with the 5th channel rated at 250 going to the sub. I added the optional sub volume control knob to the center console which is a must if you are adding this sub.

Really hope you see this post. I just got a 2016 4Runner SR5. The Toyota dealer messed up on something(whole different story) and to make it right, I asked them to order me the factory JBL sub enclosure since this forum confirmed it would fit. So I got it for free luckily.
Anyway, being the NON-JBL system, it really sucks. Lol! But I replaced all the front and rear door speakers and the hatch. Made a huge difference alone running off the stock unit.
I’m going to upgrade the head unit down the road, but for now I’m going to get an amp and a sub going first.
I want JL Audio for both.
Debating on saving $220 and throwing in the JD250/1 amp and 8W1v3-4 sub. I’d rather have the W3 sub but I’m almost worried that it’ll over power the door speakers too much. Sounds like your door speakers are amplified so you wouldn’t have that problem. What route do you think I should go?

 

[97BlackAckCL]

Really hope you see this post. I just got a 2016 4Runner SR5. The Toyota dealer messed up on something(whole different story) and to make it right, I asked them to order me the factory JBL sub enclosure since this forum confirmed it would fit. So I got it for free luckily.
Anyway, being the NON-JBL system, it really sucks. Lol! But I replaced all the front and rear door speakers and the hatch. Made a huge difference alone running off the stock unit.
I’m going to upgrade the head unit down the road, but for now I’m going to get an amp and a sub going first.
I want JL Audio for both.
Debating on saving $220 and throwing in the JD250/1 amp and 8W1v3-4 sub. I’d rather have the W3 sub but I’m almost worried that it’ll over power the door speakers too much. Sounds like your door speakers are amplified so you wouldn’t have that problem. What route do you think I should go?

Really depends on how much power you're trying to push, my 8w3v3 sounds amazing with the JD250/1 and I wouldn't trade it for the world. I had a weaker 8w3v2 and it wasn't enough for me. Honestly I'd say spring for the w3 but it's your money. I've had my w3 for 4 years and I absolutely love it. I replaced all my stock speakers and head unit. The other day I was rocking and thought, wow my god I can't believe that's an 8" I've had dual 12's for years and I'm more than happy with my 8w3

 

[damon323]

This looks good I think.

Dude! Please tell me how you made that mesh cover! That’s the best looking work I’ve seen on these! I’m putting the exact same sub, but I don’t want it to look terrible. I have the OEM box that I scored from my local Toyota dealer. I need to know how you made that!

 

[bigears2303]

Bought the panel off a member here and upgraded the sub and amp

Sent from my SM-G998U1 using Tapatalk

 

[97BlackAckCL]

Looks great! I'm glad to see so many people doing this mod

 

[damon323]

Really depends on how much power you're trying to push, my 8w3v3 sounds amazing with the JD250/1 and I wouldn't trade it for the world. I had a weaker 8w3v2 and it wasn't enough for me. Honestly I'd say spring for the w3 but it's your money. I've had my w3 for 4 years and I absolutely love it. I replaced all my stock speakers and head unit. The other day I was rocking and thought, wow my god I can't believe that's an 8" I've had dual 12's for years and I'm more than happy with my 8w3

Hope you get my message! You were right Bro, the JL Audio 8” W1v3 wasn’t enough in the factory sub enclosure. I have it paired up to a JL 5 channel RD900/5. I don’t know what I was thinking. My door speakers alone are getting 70 watts per channel, and I’m maxing my W1 out at 150 watts..? Lol! That was dumb of me.
So it sounds like you are completely happy with the 8 inch W3 in your factory sub enclosure. I’d get the W3 in a heartbeat at this point, but my 5 channel JL amp only puts out 225 watts at 4 ohms, which is what the impedance of the W3.
So I’m thinking on the new Audio Control 8 inch subs that just came out. They have a 2 ohm version that can do 350 watts. Looks to be similar dimensions for fitting in the JBL sub enclosure. Just to recap, I have a non JBL system in my 2016 SR5, I just obtained the enclosure and bolted it in.
You are one of the few people that understands my situation. Please let me know your thoughts.

Ps- The Sony AX150 head unit I got from Walmart for $250 bucks is absolutel crap. Lol! I just bought a Pioneer 2700NEX that is on the way.