Factory Roof rack - Useless?
- Thread starter KenM
- Start date
AdoboRunner
New member
You wouldn't happen to have the stock cross bars for sale would you?
jdkilroy
New member
Sorry Adobo, They are still in use on the rig.
morphious
New member
I just made a rack to add into the existing rails. Strong as heck, probably loaded close to 400#'s up there on a 200 mile camping trip with not one issue. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/200953-roof-rack-complete-home-brew-style.html
laufer
Member
Two 4-gallon Rotopax tanks and TRED 1100s on factory rack with minimal extra hardware
For my first three-week scenic backcountry driving trip this past July, I mounted two 4-gallon Rotopax cans and a pair of TRED 1100s on the roof. One design goal was to use the factory roof rack with minimal extra hardware. The other design goal was to make everything removable for urban driving.
Parts list for mounting Rotopax cans:
I started by attaching the Rotopax extensions to the mounting plate. Then I inserted the hex nuts that came with the MightyMounts into the corresponding holes and used the Rotopax bolts and nuts to attach the mounting plate. This required moving the crossbars closer together from the recommended position after sliding on the MightyMounts. (Front = left)
I strongly recommend getting the more expensive locking mounts because the have a square center that stays in place when inserted into the openings in the cans even when the cans lose pressure owing to temperature or lower elevation. I lost a non-locking deluxe mount that came loose and fell off at highway speed. Also, it pays to shop around a bit for the various parts.
The complete setup includes a pair of TRED 1100 recovery boards.
Parts list for mounting recovery boards:
Here is the complete setup in action:
This worked well for moderate backcountry driving on trails such as White Rim Road (Canyonlands NP) and Medano Pass Primitive Road (Great Sand Dunes NP). We never needed the gas but did use the TREDs quite a bit.
For my first three-week scenic backcountry driving trip this past July, I mounted two 4-gallon Rotopax cans and a pair of TRED 1100s on the roof. One design goal was to use the factory roof rack with minimal extra hardware. The other design goal was to make everything removable for urban driving.
Parts list for mounting Rotopax cans:
- 4x Yakima MightyMounts 23H (discontinued but still available on Amazon)
- 1x Rotopax universal mounting plate RX-UMP
- 2x Rotopax 1/2/4-gallon extension RX-EXT
- 2x Rotopax locking pack mount RX-LOX-PM
- 2x Rotopax 4-gallon gas can RX-4G (or any combination of four 2-gallon cans)
I started by attaching the Rotopax extensions to the mounting plate. Then I inserted the hex nuts that came with the MightyMounts into the corresponding holes and used the Rotopax bolts and nuts to attach the mounting plate. This required moving the crossbars closer together from the recommended position after sliding on the MightyMounts. (Front = left)
I strongly recommend getting the more expensive locking mounts because the have a square center that stays in place when inserted into the openings in the cans even when the cans lose pressure owing to temperature or lower elevation. I lost a non-locking deluxe mount that came loose and fell off at highway speed. Also, it pays to shop around a bit for the various parts.
The complete setup includes a pair of TRED 1100 recovery boards.
Parts list for mounting recovery boards:
- 1x 1 5/8" foam pipe insulation (tube)
- 1x Orbit 20mil pipe wrap tape (does not dry out like duct tape)
- 2x Keeper 8' by 1" 200 lbs lashing straps
Here is the complete setup in action:
This worked well for moderate backcountry driving on trails such as White Rim Road (Canyonlands NP) and Medano Pass Primitive Road (Great Sand Dunes NP). We never needed the gas but did use the TREDs quite a bit.
Last edited:
savwins
New member
Looks awesome.
Martinjmpr
New member
Don't know if the OP is still on here but when we traded our canoe for 2 kayaks, I put a set of Yakima 72" crossbars on with the Rail Grabber mounts (purchased off of CL for $50 - 1/4 of retail) and it holds 2 wide kayaks side x side.
_04runner_
New member
That thing is sweeeeet!
laufer
Member
Mounting Yakima Spare Tire Carrier directly to factory crossbars
I have successfully used Yakima MightyMounts 23H to attach a Rotopax mounting plate directly to the factory crossbars and carry two stacked 4-gallon cans:
Today, I finally added two more crossbars I bought on eBay last fall:
I also acquired a second set of MightyMounts.
Do you think I can use these to attach this Yakima spare tire carrier directly to the crossbars and use it to carry a stock or 32" P-metric tire (255/75R17) as a second spare? This would seem to be a safer option than strapping the spare tire directly to the crossbars.
To clarify, the idea is to carry both the gas cans (30 kg) and the spare (also about 30 kg). I still need to determine if everything fits length-wise, but my hope is to carry the two stacked Rotopax 4-gallon cans across the front and the spare tire toward the rear.
I'd be grateful for any feedback!
I have successfully used Yakima MightyMounts 23H to attach a Rotopax mounting plate directly to the factory crossbars and carry two stacked 4-gallon cans:
Today, I finally added two more crossbars I bought on eBay last fall:
I also acquired a second set of MightyMounts.
Do you think I can use these to attach this Yakima spare tire carrier directly to the crossbars and use it to carry a stock or 32" P-metric tire (255/75R17) as a second spare? This would seem to be a safer option than strapping the spare tire directly to the crossbars.
To clarify, the idea is to carry both the gas cans (30 kg) and the spare (also about 30 kg). I still need to determine if everything fits length-wise, but my hope is to carry the two stacked Rotopax 4-gallon cans across the front and the spare tire toward the rear.
I'd be grateful for any feedback!
Last edited:
catfishbirddog
New member
I spread the 2 cross bars as far apart as they go and ratchet strap a fishing kayak. It rests on the "spoiler" but I get a lot of use out of it. I did have some Yakima attachments but I never used them so I let em go. Depends on what you're trying to do. Make it work for you or get something that will, but before you detach I'd look at aftermarket attachments that use the oem rails.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bumbo
New member
Factory rack is pretty awesome once you get a cargo box... mine is designed to latch on to the factory cross-bars. Its basically a very simple C channel type clamp... I can install it myself in less than 3 min. Empty its light and manageable.
I was the same as you, it sounds expensive until you actually get one and start using it...
I got lucky and got one used for $100 but after using it on two long road trips, I would buy it full price again if I had to.
For the amount of space I get on top its an incredible value... and considering space inside is at a premium, it was a huge upgrade for me. Might not be the most stylish option but it works a lot better than it looks... and that also takes into account adding weight up top and aerodynamics. (It was a lot better than a flat rack in terms of both)
I have to go off memory but this was my carrier box inventory for that trip...
1 x Craftsman tool bag stuffed with tools
1 x Viair 400P Air Compressor
2 x MaxxTrac traction pads
1 x Sleeping Bag
1 x Sleeping Mat
1 x Coleman 3 Person Ground Tent
1 x Shovel
1 x Fishing Pole
1 x Laundry Bag with Dirty Clothes
...along with other small bits and bobs scattered in spaces around the edges.
Since then... I got a flat rack but if I am honest about it I do miss my cargo box at times... Its a lot difficult to load up a flat rack with loose goods like I have above all while keeping it secure from wind, rain, weather, and even theft depending on what we are talking about...
I miss the ability to just open it up and toss something in.
I still have a carrier, but I need to fabricate a new mount so I can keep using it. Flat rack has its own advantages and disadvantages, but until I get my cargo box back it feels like I end up carrying less stuff sometimes.
Flat rack has been great for pelican cases and folding tables... basically larger things that are easier to tie down. It really is a different application... think about what you want and the performance impact as well. For all those bulky soft goods you want out of the cabin, nothing beats these cargo carries in my opinion. Loading it that way also has the least amount of impact on handling and performance, at least that how I see it from my own experiences.
I was the same as you, it sounds expensive until you actually get one and start using it...
I got lucky and got one used for $100 but after using it on two long road trips, I would buy it full price again if I had to.
For the amount of space I get on top its an incredible value... and considering space inside is at a premium, it was a huge upgrade for me. Might not be the most stylish option but it works a lot better than it looks... and that also takes into account adding weight up top and aerodynamics. (It was a lot better than a flat rack in terms of both)
I have to go off memory but this was my carrier box inventory for that trip...
1 x Craftsman tool bag stuffed with tools
1 x Viair 400P Air Compressor
2 x MaxxTrac traction pads
1 x Sleeping Bag
1 x Sleeping Mat
1 x Coleman 3 Person Ground Tent
1 x Shovel
1 x Fishing Pole
1 x Laundry Bag with Dirty Clothes
...along with other small bits and bobs scattered in spaces around the edges.
Since then... I got a flat rack but if I am honest about it I do miss my cargo box at times... Its a lot difficult to load up a flat rack with loose goods like I have above all while keeping it secure from wind, rain, weather, and even theft depending on what we are talking about...
I miss the ability to just open it up and toss something in.
I still have a carrier, but I need to fabricate a new mount so I can keep using it. Flat rack has its own advantages and disadvantages, but until I get my cargo box back it feels like I end up carrying less stuff sometimes.
Flat rack has been great for pelican cases and folding tables... basically larger things that are easier to tie down. It really is a different application... think about what you want and the performance impact as well. For all those bulky soft goods you want out of the cabin, nothing beats these cargo carries in my opinion. Loading it that way also has the least amount of impact on handling and performance, at least that how I see it from my own experiences.
Last edited:
camp332
New member
You a powerlifter? Pretty impressive you can hoist a 200LB boat on top of a 4R. Just joking around with ya.
The factory rack works great for mounting up my Thule box for snowboarding, or hauling kid's stuff on getaways.
blackoutt
New member
Stock rack with tred pros mounted with rok straps, neoprene wrapped the crossbars to dampen any rubbing/sound.
2 1.75gal rotopax on locking mounts, home made aluminum bracket mounts to underside of Yamika mighty mounts for a low profile mount.
60" hi lift mounted straight through the stock cross bars. I can confirm that they do in fact have aluminum structural supports inside of them.
2 1.75gal rotopax on locking mounts, home made aluminum bracket mounts to underside of Yamika mighty mounts for a low profile mount.
60" hi lift mounted straight through the stock cross bars. I can confirm that they do in fact have aluminum structural supports inside of them.
Last edited:
blackoutt
New member
Stock rack with tred pros mounted with rok straps, neoprene wrapped the crossbars to dampen any rubbing/sound.
2 1.75gal rotopax on locking mounts, home made aluminum bracket mounts to underside of Yamika mighty mounts for a low profile mount.
60" hi lift mounted straight through the stock cross bars. I can confirm that they do in fact have aluminum structural supports inside of them.
Thoroughly tested this setup on a 2 week trip to tour the northeastern states. It was fine on the interstate but on big hits the rotopax mount would flex and hit the roof under the weight of the full fuel cans. Then on the logging roads in Maine the stock roof rack shook apart, there appeared to be rubber washers that crumbled with age on the bolts that attach the crossbars to their sliding end mounts. Once tightened they worked their way loose again, I'm guessing that they just vibrated pockets into the crossbar. By the end of the trip everything was rattling and shaking around up there. Sure I could try to fix it but at this point I think I'm going to full rack route for more usefulness anyway. It almost served it's purpose though! 4 gallons of fuel, treds, and hi lift is just too much weight for trail running on a stock rack.
SAC-CA-Runner
New member
I personally wouldn't. I have a RTT, but got a Prinsu to put it on. I wanted it to sit closer to the roof and feel it attaches much more securely since the cross braces bow a little on the SE rack. I did mount an awning utilizing these mounts when I had my SE rack. I still have them but don't use them since I got rid of my sport rack. If anyone is looking for a way to mount an awning with a stock SE rack let me know. I'll make ya a deal!
Modular Awning Mounts
Attachments
Brookey_813
New member
For my first three-week scenic backcountry driving trip this past July, I mounted two 4-gallon Rotopax cans and a pair of TRED 1100s on the roof. One design goal was to use the factory roof rack with minimal extra hardware. The other design goal was to make everything removable for urban driving.
Parts list for mounting Rotopax cans:
- 4x Yakima MightyMounts 23H (discontinued but still available on Amazon)
- 1x Rotopax universal mounting plate RX-UMP
- 2x Rotopax 1/2/4-gallon extension RX-EXT
- 2x Rotopax locking pack mount RX-LOX-PM
- 2x Rotopax 4-gallon gas can RX-4G (or any combination of four 2-gallon cans)
I started by attaching the Rotopax extensions to the mounting plate. Then I inserted the hex nuts that came with the MightyMounts into the corresponding holes and used the Rotopax bolts and nuts to attach the mounting plate. This required moving the crossbars closer together from the recommended position after sliding on the MightyMounts. (Front = left)
I strongly recommend getting the more expensive locking mounts because the have a square center that stays in place when inserted into the openings in the cans even when the cans lose pressure owing to temperature or lower elevation. I lost a non-locking deluxe mount that came loose and fell off at highway speed. Also, it pays to shop around a bit for the various parts.
The complete setup includes a pair of TRED 1100 recovery boards.
Parts list for mounting recovery boards:
- 1x 1 5/8" foam pipe insulation (tube)
- 1x Orbit 20mil pipe wrap tape (does not dry out like duct tape)
- 2x Keeper 8' by 1" 200 lbs lashing straps
Here is the complete setup in action:
This worked well for moderate backcountry driving on trails such as White Rim Road (Canyonlands NP) and Medano Pass Primitive Road (Great Sand Dunes NP). We never needed the gas but did use the TREDs quite a bit.
I think there needs to be a RotopaX Group Buy :thumb3:
DCameraMan
New member
Completely useless for any substantial weight... all plastic. even on the sport edition.
My solution - 4 years later
It is now 4 years since I posted the "Useless" thread. Well, I still have my 2007 SR5 and never did anything about the roof rack until today. I had considered expensive racks and accessories but I really wanted to solve a simple problem cheaply. Occasionally, I want haul some lumber, long pipe or a ladder and always struggled with how to stabilize the load from shifting left or right. I was always concerned that my load would slide off the rack when making a turn. This is what I did.
Based on feedback from others (thank you). I went to Amazon and bought some Yakima MightyMounts(23h) which fit my gen 4 rack pretty well. These are sill available. I had considered the new universal mount but they looked like overkill. I had some old 3" corner brackets (with Channel Lumber stickers, anyone remember Channel Lumber from the '80s?) in my junk hardware drawer. I used a 5/16th bit to drill bigger holes in the brackets to fit the bolts that came with the might mounts. I cut
the brackets to fit the width of the mounts and mounted them on the rack. With the 4 mounts, I now have stabilizers for both left and right and they can be adjusted left or right across the rack to fit the load. The mounts fit pretty tightly. Total cost = $28.00 plus tax. My rack is now useful.
Thanks to all for great ideas. Happy hauling.
--Ken
It is now 4 years since I posted the "Useless" thread. Well, I still have my 2007 SR5 and never did anything about the roof rack until today. I had considered expensive racks and accessories but I really wanted to solve a simple problem cheaply. Occasionally, I want haul some lumber, long pipe or a ladder and always struggled with how to stabilize the load from shifting left or right. I was always concerned that my load would slide off the rack when making a turn. This is what I did.
Based on feedback from others (thank you). I went to Amazon and bought some Yakima MightyMounts(23h) which fit my gen 4 rack pretty well. These are sill available. I had considered the new universal mount but they looked like overkill. I had some old 3" corner brackets (with Channel Lumber stickers, anyone remember Channel Lumber from the '80s?) in my junk hardware drawer. I used a 5/16th bit to drill bigger holes in the brackets to fit the bolts that came with the might mounts. I cut
the brackets to fit the width of the mounts and mounted them on the rack. With the 4 mounts, I now have stabilizers for both left and right and they can be adjusted left or right across the rack to fit the load. The mounts fit pretty tightly. Total cost = $28.00 plus tax. My rack is now useful.
Thanks to all for great ideas. Happy hauling.
--Ken
Attachments
Similar threads
