Factory Rubber Exhaust Hanger/Insulators

[TonyB66]

Apologies if I didn't search well, but are these Toyota parts, with part numbers?

Looks like we have five: two between the cats (at least here in CA), two at the rear of the muffler and one at the tailpipe.

I'm contemplating an exhaust project and thought it might be a good idea to start with new ones...

If not something we can buy from the dealership, if anyone has replaced these with others of the correct size, please share what you used.

Thanks.

 

[octanejunkie]

Try a muffler repair shop, those insulating hangars are suspiciously missing from the Toyota parts diagrams

https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/p...214329&vehicleid=84045&section=EXHAUST SYSTEM

 

[I_bRAD]

Try a muffler repair shop, those insulating hangars are suspiciously missing from the Toyota parts diagrams

https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/p...214329&vehicleid=84045&section=EXHAUST SYSTEM

They aren't missing, but they might as well be once you see the price.

https://www.toyotapartsdirect.ca/a/Toyota_1997_4Runner-SR5-V6-0008-SR50008--3400CC-EFI--MANUAL---5-SPEED/_53730_5904647/Exhaust-pipe/170513A-1702-671460.html

 

[TonyB66]

Try a muffler repair shop, those insulating hangars are suspiciously missing from the Toyota parts diagrams

https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/p...214329&vehicleid=84045&section=EXHAUST SYSTEM

Thanks Mike. Welcome back. Folks around here seemed quite worried about your absence...

I plan to go to a muffler shop for this work actually, but I'd like to have the new rubber hangers or insulators on first before the work commences.

 

[tvpierce]

You can get them at Rock Auto.

 

[octanejunkie]

They aren't missing, but they might as well be once you see the price.

https://www.toyotapartsdirect.ca/a/Toyota_1997_4Runner-SR5-V6-0008-SR50008--3400CC-EFI--MANUAL---5-SPEED/_53730_5904647/Exhaust-pipe/170513A-1702-671460.html

$32 each? Tony will buy a few extra just in case Lol

 

[octanejunkie]

Thanks Mike. Welcome back. Folks around here seemed quite worried about your absence...

I plan to go to a muffler shop for this work actually, but I'd like to have the new rubber hangers or insulators on first before the work commences.

Yes, tell your friends :horn: the village idiot has returned

Me, it's me. I'm the idiot :spy:

 

[TonyB66]

You can get them at Rock Auto.

Pricing much better...

Need to figure-out what I need of each now.

Thanks for the help.

EDIT/ADD: Oh, that info looks to be here right here: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=132447&cc=1364611&jsn=443

 

[AntleredRuin]

The pricing looks good now, but wait till it's in your cart. The problem with RockAuto is the shipping. It's flipping outrageous and they usually don't bundle items together for a lower shipping cost. It's all separate.

And correct me if I'm wrong, but why not just go to AutoZone or something? It get it, OEM and all, but this is not a part that goes bad often or is at all catastrophic if it does. Beside fitment, there's no reason for the higher price of OEM for this part, and surely something universal will fit close enough.

 

[TonyB66]

I hear ya on not needing OEM on something like this...

Have not used Rock Auto in many, many years, but I'll check on shipping.

Exhaust systems droop over the years, so getting this back to factory specs on proper hanging would be nice before something new gets installed.

With part numbers, which I didn't have initially, I'm not adverse to using local auto parts stores at all.

 

[TonyB66]

While I might have been able to find them locally, and possibly for less, all five will be delivered USPS Priority Mail for less than 22 bucks.

For those who might be interested:

WALKER 35111 Hanger / Insulator $ 3.30 $ 0.00 1 $ 3.30
WALKER 35725 Hanger / Insulator $ 2.89 $ 0.00 4 $ 11.56
Shipping Priority Mail $ 6.99
Order Total $ 21.85

++++++

Thanks again.

 

[octanejunkie]

While I might have been able to find them locally, and possibly for less, all five will be delivered USPS Priority Mail for less than 22 bucks.

For those who might be interested:

WALKER 35111 Hanger / Insulator $ 3.30 $ 0.00 1 $ 3.30
WALKER 35725 Hanger / Insulator $ 2.89 $ 0.00 4 $ 11.56
Shipping Priority Mail $ 6.99
Order Total $ 21.85

++++++

Thanks again.

And from Amazon with free shipping - for those that have Amazon credits or gift cards to use
WALKER 35111

WALKER 35725

 

[TonyB66]

Seems like I order on Amazon almost every day! About 10 bucks more expensive this time though, at $31.59 for the set of five...

 

[octanejunkie]

Same, and like I always say about Costco, it's not a deal unless you really NEED 5 gallons of mayonnaise all at once.

 

[Jordan River]

I hear ya on not needing OEM on something like this...

Have not used Rock Auto in many, many years, but I'll check on shipping.

Exhaust systems droop over the years, so getting this back to factory specs on proper hanging would be nice before something new gets installed.

With part numbers, which I didn't have initially, I'm not adverse to using local auto parts stores at all.

Would changing these Black Rubber Insulators on the exhaust hangers help stop vibration or droop? I have a vibration on the exhaust when in gear either drive or reverse. I can put my foot on it, and it will stop making noise from the vibration.

 

[brillo_76]

Would changing these Black Rubber Insulators on the exhaust hangers help stop vibration or droop? I have a vibration on the exhaust when in gear either drive or reverse. I can put my foot on it, and it will stop making noise from the vibration.

Can you see it moving? Its possible stiffer rubber will help with exhaust vibration. I have also seen the muffler insides come loose and rattle like crazy too.

Is the engine itself running nice and smooth?

 

[Devbot]

Would changing these Black Rubber Insulators on the exhaust hangers help stop vibration or droop? I have a vibration on the exhaust when in gear either drive or reverse. I can put my foot on it, and it will stop making noise from the vibration.

It's worth a shot, replacing the one closest to the cat fixed my vibration. The hanger itself has started to crack/split at the weld so the exhaust would buzz unless a tiny bit of pressure was put on it in either direction, all I did is went to autozone and got a new hanger isolator for a few bucks which held the exhaust a little more firmly and it immediately got quiet. $10 pretty well spent in my book

 

[Jordan River]

Can you see it moving? Its possible stiffer rubber will help with exhaust vibration. I have also seen the muffler insides come loose and rattle like crazy too.

Is the engine itself running nice and smooth?

Yes. The end of the tailpipe vibrates the most, moving back towards the engine- the muffler i can see vibrating, the two catalytic converters I have vibrate a decent amount. I have a total of 4 insulators- 1 near the end of the tailpipe, 2 on the muffler, and one on the 2nd catalytic converter. The 1st catalytic converter does not have one.

All the welds look intact and also the rubber is not cracked or look to be in bad shape.

Im currently running very smooth on my engine being 22 years old with about 298k miles. No major problems other than its a very slow pick up speed- but it's a V4. Idle around 800-825 RPM in Park, and 7-725 in gear. I do notice more vibrations inside the car when the AC is on.

Rpm's bounce/surge with AC on like others have mentioned being common in other threads I've read. When I first bought it 2 years ago with 269k miles I was running around 1700 rpms with idle surging. I have got that way under control awhile back, but have been chasing vibration for a while.


One thing has me thinking maybe it's U-joints on the drive shaft needing greased. My carfax shows the driveshaft U-joints were replaced about 140,000 miles ago- and they don't have any zerk fittings on them... Also getting a loud pop/clunk when going from reverse to drive or drive to reverse- Usually once warmed up.

Seems worth a shot but let me know if you think it could be driveshaft vibration. Thanks for any input/help.

 

[brillo_76]

Yes. The end of the tailpipe vibrates the most, moving back towards the engine- the muffler i can see vibrating, the two catalytic converters I have vibrate a decent amount. I have a total of 4 insulators- 1 near the end of the tailpipe, 2 on the muffler, and one on the 2nd catalytic converter. The 1st catalytic converter does not have one.



All the welds look intact and also the rubber is not cracked or look to be in bad shape.



Im currently running very smooth on my engine being 22 years old with about 298k miles. No major problems other than its a very slow pick up speed- but it's a V4. Idle around 800-825 RPM in Park, and 7-725 in gear. I do notice more vibrations inside the car when the AC is on.



Rpm's bounce/surge with AC on like others have mentioned being common in other threads I've read. When I first bought it 2 years ago with 269k miles I was running around 1700 rpms with idle surging. I have got that way under control awhile back, but have been chasing vibration for a while.





One thing has me thinking maybe it's U-joints on the drive shaft needing greased. My carfax shows the driveshaft U-joints were replaced about 140,000 miles ago- and they don't have any zerk fittings on them... Also getting a loud pop/clunk when going from reverse to drive or drive to reverse- Usually once warmed up.



Seems worth a shot but let me know if you think it could be driveshaft vibration. Thanks for any input/help.

I would start with verifying your ujoints and you probably can put greasible ones in if you wish..

The insulators do flex more when they are warn.

Do you have the hanger that belongs at the last cat?

Lots of times, they are not replaced when aftermarket exhausts go on.

All mine were missing them Abdi been putting them back on while I am fixing them.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

Yes. The end of the tailpipe vibrates the most, moving back towards the engine- the muffler i can see vibrating, the two catalytic converters I have vibrate a decent amount. I have a total of 4 insulators- 1 near the end of the tailpipe, 2 on the muffler, and one on the 2nd catalytic converter. The 1st catalytic converter does not have one.



All the welds look intact and also the rubber is not cracked or look to be in bad shape.



Im currently running very smooth on my engine being 22 years old with about 298k miles. No major problems other than its a very slow pick up speed- but it's a V4. Idle around 800-825 RPM in Park, and 7-725 in gear. I do notice more vibrations inside the car when the AC is on.



Rpm's bounce/surge with AC on like others have mentioned being common in other threads I've read. When I first bought it 2 years ago with 269k miles I was running around 1700 rpms with idle surging. I have got that way under control awhile back, but have been chasing vibration for a while.





One thing has me thinking maybe it's U-joints on the drive shaft needing greased. My carfax shows the driveshaft U-joints were replaced about 140,000 miles ago- and they don't have any zerk fittings on them... Also getting a loud pop/clunk when going from reverse to drive or drive to reverse- Usually once warmed up.



Seems worth a shot but let me know if you think it could be driveshaft vibration. Thanks for any input/help.

I would start with verifying your ujoints and you probably can put greasible ones in if you wish..

The insulators do flex more when they are warn.

Do you have the hanger that belongs at the last cat?

Lots of times, they are not replaced when aftermarket exhausts go on.

All mine were missing them and been putting them back on while I am fixing them.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk