Feedback request from T4Rs Lifting rear tire (only) with Hi Lift on sliders

So lifting the front tires with the Hi Lift and sliders is pretty straight forward. I've read many of the warnings and watched the videos. What I haven't seemed to find is information from people lifting JUST the rear wheel. I'd like to hear from those who successfully change their rear tire with the Hi Lift. I'm not interested in lifting both the front and rear wheels, not interested in lifting from the hitch. The rear has so much more flex that the Hi Lift height has to be much higher. It doesn't feel particularly safe that high. I have the option to continue using my bottle/stand jack or alternatively block after lifting the rear wheel with the jackmate. I'm looking to have the flexibility of multiple lift methods on the front AND rear, but at the moment I only feel comfortable lifting the rear with the bottle/stand on the trail. (one of these:
http://a.co/f7hGnkq )

Thanks for your help.
I changed my driver rear tire using the hi-lift at the Cove in October. I did make sure I was on fairly level ground before I started. No problems though.
 
I wouldn't fret too much about the axle shaft. It's really unlikely that you'll break one without re-geared axles and a bunch of weight on taller tires. That's usually the formula. Also - be smart behind the wheel. When you're stuck and it starts to hop or bounce - stop. It's rare that you'll ever bounce your way out of where you're at. And my general experience is that about the 4th bounce is when something breaks. It's the shock load on the axle that causes the failure most times for me.

The front CV axles are pretty easy to swap on the trail. You won't want to drive far, but you could limp a few miles if you really had to. Go very slow. The floppy end of the axle will be bouncing around uncontrolled and could do a lot of damage if you go fast. If you had to run without it - you need to cut the boots off on both ends and remove the axle shaft from both joints. Then you'd also want to leave the broken end of the outer CV still in the hub to hold the wheel bearing together. And you'll need to leave the inner CV in the differential to keep the fluid inside. Then you could drive in 2wd. This isn't ideal - but it would work in a pinch. - also as a side note - tip the vehicle to the opposite side so the gear lube doesn't pour out of the open axle shaft hole when you're swapping them and you can skip draining and re-filling the diff in the dirt. That's not very fun.

Toyota did a fantastic job of changing around the front suspension design in a way that makes it really easy to do. But you'll need to have all the tools to do it. The biggest missing tool from most standard kits would be a socket large enough for the outer nut on that holds the outer shaft in the hub. IIRC it's a 35mm, but a 36mm is more common and works just fine too. You should be able to buy one for under $10.

Unless you're going rock crawling I would probably not be too worried about it. I don't carry a spare axle unless I'm going somewhere that I am going specifically to rock crawl. I've never broken one in this 4runner either. They're way stronger than the old ifs axles. But I've broken enough axles on other vehicles that it's just a nice piece of mind to have. IMO - just buy a cheap replacement axle on Amazon/Ebay for $50 and it'll work to get you home. It's not as strong as the OEM toyota ones - but it's a spare. You could probably watch on youtube how to swap one out. Having the right pry bar to pry the inner side out of the differential is always a PITA. It takes more force than you think.

The same shaft assembly works on both sides. So you only need one.

Also - there's really not very many truly remote areas in north america. I hate giving this advice - but the reality is that if you have all the tools, someone will come along and be able to help you get it swapped out. I've helped a ton of people do trail repairs over the years and had help myself too. It wasn't true 20 years ago, but in today's world there's so many more vehicles out everywhere that having the parts and specialty tools is probably more important than knowing how to do it.


This is all sound advice. Thanks for taking the time to write this up despite my questions diverging from the original post. Ultimately I want to be prepared for solo operation, which is the primary objective for me at the moment. I'll be looking into axle repair more now that I'm aware of the risks. Also regarding being remote, perhaps your right that there's always someone around but in the last several trips to Death Valley and Mojave Preserve I only encountered 2-6 vehicles a day on my trails. Once I only encountered just a single motorcycle. And no cell service for days (hence the satellite pager). Although the runner is reliable and I drive very responsibly (I'll remember your bouncing comment) I do not wish to push my luck. At the moment, I'm not sure I have the weight/rescue gear balanced properly. You guys have years of experience, I've got only months. Thanks again.
 

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