Finally employed again so I can support my 4Runner, oh yeah, and eat.

[lucky1-T4R]

So, I have been away looking for work. Found a company crazy enough to hire me. Now I'm back to wanting to throw money at the T4R for no good reason.

Below is what I am thinking about and listed in no particular order.

I want this to be a daily driver in spite of the terrible MPG's.
1999 Limited with e-locker, bone stock, 121k miles.

This truck would never see any serious off road activity, maybe a mild trail or two. There is no place good to go around here anymore....

0. Basline the vehicle -
a. Front end vibration - dealer said get better tires, maybe wheels too
b. Brakes are spongy, fluid/pads look ok, did the E-brake adjust
c. Needs all fluids, wipers suck, spark plugs, plug wires, filters, etc.
1. Rear end starting to sag, would like springs/shocks/struts all around
2. Ride quality is horrifyingly wicked, partially changes lanes on rough, back roads
3. Power locks/fobs no longer working, read about a module for that?
4. Replace stock head unit/speakers with aftermarket
5. 2m/70cm, GMRS install
6. Remote start (push button start/proximity fantasy)
7. Mud flaps required if removing stock running boards
8. Convert incandescents to LEDs throughout
9. ?
10. ?
11. ?
12. ?

This is just a thinking out loud post. I need to put together a real world solid plan. I bet there are some suggestions here. )

L

 

[lucky1-T4R]

Just found this post by Absalom. I don't know who he is, but he may have all the answers to life.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/197591-absaloms-cookie-cutter-4runner-builds.html

Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior - Pavement Bias

The DD/WW build is aimed at folks who spend the majority of their time on pavement, but frequently take their trucks off-roading on the weekends. Great for a family that enjoys camping, a traveling salesperson, or a hunter. Using premium OEM components where applicable, drivers can rest assured they're getting the best quality on road.
New OEM lower ball joints
New OEM radiator
New OEM inner and outer tie rods
New OEM upper and lower control arm bushings
Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
Brake fluid
Engine oil
Power steering fluid
Differential fluid
Coolant flush
Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
New OEM sway bar links front and rear
New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
New OEM 99 Tall Coils front and rear
New OEM Shocks/Struts
New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)

 

[3bears]

all above but 265/75/16 esp if your switching to talls

 

[lucky1-T4R]

I think I just crapped in my pants a little bit. So far, the rough internet based math looks to be around $4,000, not including any labor, tax, etc. Good thing I like Ramen noodles.....

 

[nc-grayson]

I think I just crapped in my pants a little bit. So far, the rough internet based math looks to be around $4,000, not including any labor, tax, etc. Good thing I like Ramen noodles.....

if you're factoring in the word labor, do yourself a favor and invest some of what you want to in goodies, into some hand tools and a jack and stands. do some research. watch some videos, get your hands dirty.

don't take this the wrong way, but if you've been unemployed for a while just now getting back into the game, you should be on a budget. budget yourself some tools and general know how before you start blowing money on stuff you want because it looks cool only to blow more money on someone else to install it for you.

 

[lucky1-T4R]

Not taken the wrong way. I appreciate the input.

My labor, my tools, and my jacks and stands. (I have all of these, built a TJ and a YJ in the distant past. My how things have changed. Read: gone up in price)

That $4k is just parts based on the stuff in the first two posts: Ball joints, radiator, tie rods, bushings, sway bar links, coils, shocks, struts, tires, fluids, etc. Again, that's rough internet math.

That does not include fun things like radio's, beer, walmart cut-to-fit floor mats, keyless entry module ($200+?), beer, sleeping platform, beer, taco antenna mod, beer, mud flaps, off-road park fee's, and beer.

That truck ain't worth spending $5K on it. I could sell it for that. I need to drink a beer and re-think this....

 

[thegipper]

Your list of stuff you need shouldn't be 4k, not even close.

Figure 800ish for tires and another 800 to a grand in other parts. Shop around and you should be able to save some money.

 

[Renegade_Medic]

Not taken the wrong way. I appreciate the input.

My labor, my tools, and my jacks and stands. (I have all of these, built a TJ and a YJ in the distant past. My how things have changed. Read: gone up in price)

That $4k is just parts based on the stuff in the first two posts: Ball joints, radiator, tie rods, bushings, sway bar links, coils, shocks, struts, tires, fluids, etc. Again, that's rough internet math.

That does not include fun things like radio's, beer, walmart cut-to-fit floor mats, keyless entry module ($200+?), beer, sleeping platform, beer, taco antenna mod, beer, mud flaps, off-road park fee's, and beer.

That truck ain't worth spending $5K on it. I could sell it for that. I need to drink a beer and re-think this....

Depends on what kind of springs and shocks you with. If you just want 99 talls, you can do the Moog springs, and Bilstein 4600 shocks from amazon for roughly 400 bucks.

Hankook ATM in P265/75R16 are a little over 500 bucks mounted. Just putting that out there.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

You must like REALLY expensive beer!

 

[AntleredRuin]

Your list of stuff you need shouldn't be 4k, not even close.

Figure 800ish for tires and another 800 to a grand in other parts. Shop around and you should be able to save some money.

+1 this.
Yeah that math doesn't seem right to me.

What's your opinion on lightly used parts?

Put a feeler out for lightly used shocks/struts and get Moog 99 rear springs for $35.
I picked up a set of KYB stock height struts and springs from a fellow forum member with about 20k miles on them for like $80 shipped. Plus Moog rear springs, and my ride is DRASTICALLY better over the dead original suspension.

Try to grab what you can online from Advance Auto. Google coupons for them, and you can often find ones for 30%+ off. My favorite is the $40 off any order over $100. Group your orders right and make several orders like this, and you can get 40% off all day long. Or you can just get $40 of free stuff if you spend $60. There's your trim to fit floor mats right there! Work the system.

Get OE parts from Camelback Toyota when you can, and ask around for coupons for them too.

You don't have to get OE fluids, as anything new is better than old worn out crap. Even Wal-Mart supertech will do fine, at least for a while.
Get the Valvoline with Zerex coolant from Wal-Mart instead of Zerex by Valvoline from Autozone. The exact same thing, and around $11/gallon.
Motorcraft oil filters are cheap and great quality from Wal-Mart.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

 

[yella]

Depends on what kind of springs and shocks you with. If you just want 99 talls, you can do the Moog springs, and Bilstein 4600 shocks from amazon for roughly 400 bucks.



Hankook ATM in P265/75R16 are a little over 500 bucks mounted. Just putting that out there.

KYB gas a just and moog springs are a good alternative. Good bang for buck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

0. Basline the vehicle -
a. Front end vibration - dealer said get better tires, maybe wheels too

Figure on spending about $600-900 mounted, Cooper AT3's cheaper, BFG's more look for rebates, sales etc

b. Brakes are spongy, fluid/pads look ok, did the E-brake adjust

Adjust the rear brakes not the E-brake - make sure the bell cranks are not frozen. Flushing your brake fluid (mentioned below might help with the spongy brakes

c. Needs all fluids, wipers suck, spark plugs, plug wires, filters, etc.

All fluids include: Coolant and distilled water (are you flushing old green out or just refreshing Red already in there? a little more $ if changing out coolants) $30-40
Engine Oil- $35 -45 For quality Oil and filter.
Differential fluids - $40-50 (maybe more as I'm going off of about $11 a qt)
Auto trans fluid - 3 gallons about $50 to $75 depending on quality - Now I'm not going to get into the whole flush vs drain and refill debate but I've flushed - or let's us use the proper terminology - a 1 to 1 fluid replacement and have NEVER had an issue.

Power steering flush $10 - Check out Tim's video on this. Very easy to remove the reservoir and replace ALL the fluid in the system.

Brake fluid - $20 a couple large bottles of fluid and bleed each wheel out until the fluid is clean ALWAYS refilling the reservoir (after getting a turkey baster and draining the fluid) and refilling with fresh fluid

Don't forget to grease your drive shafts - I have 2 guns with the 2 different greases (research this on your own) but it seems you could just get away with one grease.

Plugs and wires - NGK $75 for OEM. Make sure the Coil pack boots are OK too.

Wipers - $20 - 50

Radiator - And OEM radiator from Toyota online is now $115 + some shipping. I would replace this for piece of mind.

1. Rear end starting to sag, would like springs/shocks/struts all around

Obviously very subjective here. Springs - 99 talls, OME 880/906, new or lightly used, Figure on spending around $150-300 here. 99 Talls from Toyota would be most expensive. Shocks - the same, KYB, Tokio, Bilstein. Probably will spend about the same on shock ($150- 300) as springs

2. Ride quality is horrifyingly wicked, partially changes lanes on rough, back roads

This could be cured with all the other work, OTRE's, ITREs, Rack and Pinion bushings, Control arm bushings. You could spend $500+ here. Really need to diagnose. Your miles are pretty low so replacing a bunch of suspension parts may not be needed, although if your truck actually sat for a while undriven, that could be detrimental to bushings and such.

You MAY want to replace the LBJs for piece of mind - $170 although with your mileage, I'm just not sure. If there's grease weeping from the boots then you might want to replace them.

3. Power locks/fobs no longer working, read about a module for that?

Need more diagnosis here. Check the wiring under the boot at the top of the rear hatch. Does the key in the rear lock operate the rear window? Do the buttons on the doors work the locks?

4. Replace stock head unit/speakers with aftermarket

Super subjective here. Not even going to price it. I spent about $800 and it's about as loud as I can stand it and VERY clear.

5. 2m/70cm, GMRS install

No idea bout this. CB antennae. Is this necessary for a pavement queen? I thought this stuff was used mostly for offroading.
If your a CB hobbyist then have at it.

6. Remote start (push button start/proximity fantasy)

They're getting about $200 for a remote start install. Proximity fantasy?

7. Mud flaps required if removing stock running boards

You could go cheap or spend a little more. Not sure on price $50?

8. Convert incandescents to LEDs throughout

Interior LEDs. Research this. No need to get nuts ie replacing every single LED in the instrument cluster. Just the 3 for backlighting. For the rest. $50
Exterior LEDs. I only have rear tailight LEDs with the backup light. If you start getting into the turn signal LEDs then you get into resistor mods.

9. How's the TB? Has it been replaced? Do the WP at the same time. Drive belts? You can get a kit with OEM parts for around $300 to 400 that will have ALL the parts to replace once you get into this job.

How's the valve cover gaskets? Shocked if they're not leaking. $100 for OEM parts to do this job.

This is just a thinking out loud post. I need to put together a real world solid plan. I bet there are some suggestions here. )

So, according to my math, you could spend $1565 to $2190. Of course, if you get some quality used parts, find some deals, etc., you can save some more money. Keep an eye on the classifieds in this forum. Lots of good stuff in there. This does NOT include whatever front end parts you may need (UCA bushings, LCA bushings, ITREs, OTREs, sway bar links and bushings.) Includes the OEM radiator but NOT the LBJs. Also doesn't include whatever the stereo will cost, whatever it will cost to get the remote locks working, whatever your GMRS/ CB radio install will cost or the TB/WP and VC cover gasket job. Obviously also doesn't include all the other stuff you'll want to mod/ replace once the acquire the mod bug like many of us are afflicted with. :biggrin2:

PS Here's the 2 Toyota Online sites I use. Camelback has free shipping over $150 and under 25 lbs.

https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/p...ed/?siteid=214329&vehicleid=84044&searchText=

Conicelli Toyota has the cheapest prices I've found and are close to me so shipping is cheaper/quicker than Camelback.

https://parts.conicellitoyotaofcons...oyota/4runner/limited-trim/3-4l-v6-gas-engine

 

[3bears]

don't have my notebook here

I'm pretty sure the camelback discount code is TWpartz

this will save you more money "Twpartz" stand for Tacoma world partz
they offer it on the Tacoma forum sites, ive used it for my 4runner....they don't care if its a taco or a 4runner
the more you save on parts, the more you have for wrench lubricant (beer)

 

[AntleredRuin]

This is a good write-up here, but I'll mention the Wal-Mart brand (SuperTech) fluids again, just in case. I know they aren't the absolute BEST quality, but they are very good quality, especially for the price.
OP may want to go with something more 'well known' long-term, but if he's just looking to refresh fluids that have been sitting for God knows how long without breaking the bank, Supertech will do just fine.
I did a full tranny flush/refresh (let some drain through the cooler hose, then replace with equal quantity) with SuperTech when I got mine at 132k and the shifting was noticeably better than the old stock fluid. Only $12/gallon vs like $18+. Since then I've done drain and fills with Valvoline Maxlife as regular maintenance, but nothing was as noticeable as simply getting the old crap out. 57k later and no issues yet.
Same thing with the engine oil. I've used SuperTech oil for years with no ill effects, and my valve were nearly clean enough to eat off of when I did my valve cover gaskets a few months ago. DO spurge on a better oil filter though; Supertech Anti-drain-back-valve leaves much to be desired. Motorcraft does well, for like $1.50 more.

Wal-Mart has distilled gallon water for 88cents, Prestone radiator flush for around $4, and Zerex for $11

Sorry to turn this into a BobIsTheOilGuy thread :behindsofa: Budget is my middle name, and a few bucks saved on each individual item (especially when you need multiples of said item) can really add up in the long run.

Also, not OEM, but AirCabinMan for the TB/WP job does very well, for $250
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-3-4...er-Pump-Kit-/190521450224?hash=item2c5bf69ef0
I have this in mine, and several other people on this forum recommend it. My dad works at Firestone and he said that even buying parts for me with his employee discount couldn't come close.


OP, however you look at it, though, you're gonna spend some money on your 4Runner to get it up to snuff. You'd do this with ANY used car to an extent. It's the trade-off of not having a massive new-car note. We're just lucky that the 4Runner is worth it due to it's longevity. You don't have to do it all at once, but definitely focus on the safety/catastrophic failure issues (LBJ and radiator and potentially the squishy brakes) and basic maintenance (fluid refresh) first. A jarring ride sucks, but should come after those on the priority list. You've not gonna get very far if your wheel falls off of you get a pink milkshake or you get in a wreck because you can't stop fast enough.

Spread the rest out over the next few paychecks. It won't hurt anything to let to sit a little while longer

Think of it this way: I don't know how much you spent on your T4R, but if you have a monthly car note on it, it's likely microscopic compared to a newer vehicle. Same goes with insurance.
Spending $400+ a month on a newer car PLUS insurance just for the privilege of being able to drive it...You'd close that gap to the alleged $4k quickly.
This way, you'll have a few 'expensive' months (again that you can spread out), and then you'll be SAVING that $400+ a month to spend on stuff that you actually want to buy.
All while owning and driving the *****inest vehicle around :biggrin2:

The 4runner will also likely last longer than a new car anyways, especially with only 120k on the clock.

 

[TrexRunnerGirl]

This has helped me to pin point what i need to do next.
I've done a bunch spread out over last year - LBJ, UBJ, shocks, etc. now on to fluids and a stinkin gasket (again). that is where its gonna get pricey. plus timing belt,pump.
Then I think I'm set and going to drive her to AZ and back at Xmas.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

This has helped me to pin point what i need to do next.
I've done a bunch spread out over last year - LBJ, UBJ, shocks, etc. now on to fluids and a stinkin gasket (again). that is where its gonna get pricey. plus timing belt,pump.
Then I think I'm set and going to drive her to AZ and back at Xmas.

Which gasket? VC gaskets?