First cordless impact I have seen that is able to remove the crankbolt....

[amalik]

The truck is off. Rear wheels off the ground and supported by 6 ton jack stands on the axle. Front wheels are chocked and parking brake is off. I turn the key on but don't start the truck. I depress the brake pedal and shift the trans into neutral. With the trans in neutral and the parking brake off, I can turn the driveshaft to get at all the bolts.

I use the same technique when I'm greasing the driveshaft zerk fittings because sometimes they aren't pointing in the right direction for you to get your grease gun on them and you need to turn the driveshaft.

While I understand you are reaping a lot of benefit from doing this, the risk I think is still pretty high unless you jacked up all 4 wheels off the ground.

Hell, I jack up and have 4 jack stands (and leave jack in place) and have parking brake pulled and that's just if I'm under there looking around.

Think about it this way.

Let's say you have even the slightest slope in your garage, and you're under there working. All it will take for an accident is for your legs to accidentally kick the wheel chalks out of place on the front wheels.

I realize the rear would be on jack stands, but I can imagine a scenario where the front wheels trying to go backwards would kick the stands out of place/etc and next thing you know the truck crushes your limbs or skull.

Agree or do I sound crazy?

 

[amalik]

https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Impact-Wrench-Powered-Cordless/dp/B00O1FV2E8

I got mine for $100 with battery and charger at Sears. My life has never been the same.

Sears raised price on it, it's $160 looks like. Still a bit cheaper than AMZN.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-c3-1...FSbmHSkEVWVaxAktpObwmBoCy5Tw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

19.2 volts seems funny.

Hey, I'm better than 18V but not good enough to be 20V, lol.

 

[mtbtim]

While I understand you are reaping a lot of benefit from doing this, the risk I think is still pretty high unless you jacked up all 4 wheels off the ground.

Hell, I jack up and have 4 jack stands (and leave jack in place) and have parking brake pulled and that's just if I'm under there looking around.

Think about it this way.

Let's say you have even the slightest slope in your garage, and you're under there working. All it will take for an accident is for your legs to accidentally kick the wheel chalks out of place on the front wheels.

I realize the rear would be on jack stands, but I can imagine a scenario where the front wheels trying to go backwards would kick the stands out of place/etc and next thing you know the truck crushes your limbs or skull.

Agree or do I sound crazy?

If my garage was at a slant, I might agree gravity is working against me. My garage is completely flat. Once the weight of the truck is resting on the jack stands, I bet even if I tried, it would be a struggle to get the truck to fall off. I also have very sticky heavy duty wheel chocks made of old tire rubber and they resist slipping on the garage floor.

Trust me, I'm pretty safety conscious and don't feel I'm taking a risk at all here. Some people use backup jack stands. Some use the hydraulic floor jack as a backup. Sometimes I put a backup, sometimes I don't. This is the way I look at it. The chances of a jack stand failing on you is kind of like your chances of getting struck by lightning. You have a much much much better chance getting creamed in an automobile accident on the roads and most of us drive everyday.

But, to each his own and do what you feel safe doing while working on your vehicles.

 

[amalik]

If my garage was at a slant, I might agree gravity is working against me. My garage is completely flat. Once the weight of the truck is resting on the jack stands, I bet even if I tried, it would be a struggle to get the truck to fall off. I also have very sticky heavy duty wheel chocks made of old tire rubber and they resist slipping on the garage floor.

Trust me, I'm pretty safety conscious and don't feel I'm taking a risk at all here. Some people use backup jack stands. Some use the hydraulic floor jack as a backup. Sometimes I put a backup, sometimes I don't. This is the way I look at it. The chances of a jack stand failing on you is kind of like your chances of getting struck by lightning. You have a much much much better chance getting creamed in an automobile accident on the roads and most of us drive everyday.

But, to each his own and do what you feel safe doing while working on your vehicles.

I'm with ya.

My garage is somewhat sloped, so I have to be a bit more careful.

 

[fourfive]

If you do, then post some pics of real world applications, not just opening the box and going ....:wow2:

If I weren't so heavily in the bed with Dewalt and having nine batteries for all of their cordless tools, I'd give the Metabo a hard look and probably my money. After all I'd rather have German made tools over the PRC stuff any day.

Just ordered the Metabo 18v 1/2". I decided to hold on to my ingersoll rand for now juuuust in case. I do have a timing belt job waiting for me on my friends 3rd gen to see how it handles the crank bolt but have to try and fix my mysterious evap leak first.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Just ordered the Metabo 18v 1/2". I decided to hold on to my ingersoll rand for now juuuust in case. I do have a timing belt job waiting for me on my friends 3rd gen to see how it handles the crank bolt but have to try and fix my mysterious evap leak first.

I rarely say I am jealous of others (maybe Wilt Chamberlain ound but if the impact is anywhere close to the build quality of Metabo's other tools you should enjoy it for some time to come.

I guess you haven't gotten the digital air regulator yet?

 

[fourfive]

I guess you haven't gotten the digital air regulator yet?

Since it wasn't prime, it wasn't going to come in by this weekend so was going to just use the dial regulator on the air compressor and set it to where I barely feel air coming out. I tried looking for that same one you recommended locally so i could use it this weekend and saw that harbor freight had one that "looked" the same but not sure if it really is the same thing...

Any thoughts on this digital air flow regulator as a local alternative i could get by this weekend?

 

[LittleCaesar]

That looks like it will work just fine, as long as it works out of the box. But as with some HF stuff, it can be a real hit or miss.

Good luck with it. Hopefully you can eradicate that pesky EVAP code.

 

[fourfive]

I haven't used the metabo impact on anything with more than 80-90ft/lbs of torque (lugnuts) but works well for such a small light weight impact. Comparing the metabo with 295ft/lbs of torque vs my ingersoll rand with 1100ft/lbs, there is a noticeable difference in power but the metabo hasn't failed to remove any nuts/bolts so far. The weight of the metabo in my hand is significantly lighter than my ingersoll rand and because of its compact size I find myself using it much more than my ingersoll rand. My "gold standard" test is still removing a crank bolt which hopefully I'll get that opportunity within the next month.

A few pictures for size comparison:

 

[LittleCaesar]

Sweet. Metabo is well built. I often find that German and Japanese tools have the best balance. I am guessing the impact is no exception.

How is the lighting for it? Battery life?

Good luck with the crank bolt.

 

[fourfive]

Very well built & super easy/handy to manipulate. The light on it is very good & a nice bonus especially since my ingersoll doesn't have any lights. Battery is excellent and on par with my ingersoll. I charged the battery when I first got it and haven't charged it since & it still shows full power. So far I've used it to:
-rotate tires on 5 cars (2 of those were 4runners)
-removing/installing a gas tank
-removing/installing 2 3rd gen bumpers
-removing/installing panhard bar
-certain bolts during a valve cover gasket job

Great stuff, very glad you made this thread. Just like any other tool or day to day items we carry or use, having something compact, lightweight, ergonomic, without too much compromise in power goes a very looong way with me.

 

[thegipper]

mtbtim, did you use the Metabo on the crank bolt yet? Was it able to get it off?

thanks

 

[fourfive]

Good luck with the crank bolt.

The timing belt job I was going help with on another 3rd gen got put on a temporary hold but over the weekend I used the metabo to remove an axle nut that was torqued to spec with ease. I know it was torqued to spec, 174 ft/lbs, because I torqued it myself a couple years ago.

 

[thegipper]

So this is somewhat related but when my brother had the timing belt off on my rig (previously his), he did not torque the crank bolt to 217 ft/lbs. He didn't think it was necessary and didn't have a torque wrench capable of 217 ft/lbs.

After reading some more into it, I don't want to risk shearing off the key on the crank. Can I just put my 1/2" torque wrench on it and tighten it down? Or do I need to do something else first? Will I damage anything but tightening it down more?

Thanks

 

[LittleCaesar]

So this is somewhat related but when my brother had the timing belt off on my rig (previously his), he did not torque the crank bolt to 217 ft/lbs. He didn't think it was necessary and didn't have a torque wrench capable of 217 ft/lbs.

After reading some more into it, I don't want to risk shearing off the key on the crank. Can I just put my 1/2" torque wrench on it and tighten it down? Or do I need to do something else first? Will I damage anything but tightening it down more?

Thanks

Buy or rent one ASAP that will torque down to 250ft/lbs. At the worst the dampener will crack or even work its way off the crank (read both happening on YT).

I saw this thread again and was in high hopes [MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] had removed the crank bolt with ease. At least he is enjoying the impact.

 

[thegipper]

So I can just stick a socket and a torque wrench on it and crank it down? I don't need to do anything else (hold the pulley?). My truck is not torn apart right now, I just drove it to work actually, just want to be clear about that.

I wont screw anything up by cranking on that bolt right now?

Thanks LC

 

[fourfive]

I saw this thread again and was in high hopes [MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] had removed the crank bolt with ease. At least he is enjoying the impact.

Next time I post in this thread I will have a success or fail report. The axle nut was just my warm up. :boxing:

 

[kball]

So I can just stick a socket and a torque wrench on it and crank it down? I don't need to do anything else (hold the pulley?). My truck is not torn apart right now, I just drove it to work actually, just want to be clear about that.

I wont screw anything up by cranking on that bolt right now?

Thanks LC

You will need a holding tool otherwise the engine will turn. Maybe you can rent the tool as well.

 

[thegipper]

I actually have the tool my brother made for holding the pulley when he pulled the timing belt off, I have it in my garage somewhere.

So just use the tool to hold the pulley in place (tool against the frame) and crank the bolt down to 217 ft/lbs.

It may be down that tight but I doubt it. My brother said he cranked it down really hard with a breaker bar but did not have a torque wrench. I just want to make sure that it is in fact torqued to spec. I am having no issues and the HB isn't wobbling or anything but I don't like to take any unnecessary chances, I have bad luck....

Maybe a stupid question but the bolt is a standard "righty tighty" bolt correct and not left hand thread correct?

 

[thegipper]

One other quick question, I have the bolts for using the homemade tool that goes into the pully. Is it safe to have the tool (piece of 1/4" steel) rest against the pulley? Or do I need some spacers or something to keep the tool off of the pulley?

I don't want to screw anything up checking the crank bolt since I'm having zero issues and I'm probably going to find out the bolt is cranked damn near 217 ft/lbs.