First issue with my truck, any ideas what's wrong?

[flyinhawaiian01]

Some pics from the web of what I'm talking about:

Before cleaning:

After cleaning:

Again, this was on a different vehicle, and those aren't my photos, but mine looked worse than that and worked perfectly after I cleaned it up. Also found that some Cadillacs have the same issue and this fixes them also.

 

[scanny]

Thanks, good idea. Now I just have to find where it is in 4Runner. I think if transmission would sit on a deck I would easily find the switch, but when I look under the vehicle it doesn't seen to be as obvious as on pictures : )

 

[philsey]

I'm not really mechanically inclined but I think I knew where the switch is I probably can try to clean it up. If it's deep in the engine and requires to remove bunch of stuff to get to it, I would probably take it to a mechanic...

I'll bet [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] at least knows where it is ....

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Sorry, TIS was acting up last night. So there's a possibility the issue could be either with the park neutral switch on the driver's side of the transmission. Or the floor shifter assembly, I'll need to look at some more information when I get the chance.

 

[intervivos]

Resurrecting this thread for FYI/archive purposes....just in case more folks have this problem.

I had exactly the same issue on my 2014 trail. Check engine, stability control and terrain select indicator illuminated. Shifter position indicator blank, and S mode would not work. Shifter was a little heavy/rough moving through the gears, especially if you let the vehicle sit a 3-4 days. The issue would clear up after a little use, but I did manage to catch the codes one time an it returned a P0705.

Took it to the dealer as it was CPO, and they said that the sensor was a mess....so much corrosion they had a tough time removing it. Replaced the sensor/switch and so far so good.

 

[scanny]

Thanks for updating us. My issue is gone so far, shifter has been working fine, no issues whatsoever. I'm out of warranty, so I'm waiting when any symptoms appear again so I can replace sensor. Or hope that maybe it fixed itself for good, although I doubt it : )

 

[toycan]

My 2010 sr5 seems to be doing the same.

It's been on and off for a couple years. Acts up more when the weather is around 0c and humid.


I'm just west of you near Burlington, btw.

Time for me to fix this finally.

Anyone have a clear picture where the switch is exactly in the truck? A quick look under the hood and I'm not seeing it. Should be in the driver's side visible from the top?

 

[scanny]

As far as I understood switch is underneath the truck on driver side of transmission. I took it to mechanic last winter and he replaced it for me. I was going take the switch off and see if I can clean it, but it was cold outside, I didn't see switch right away and was worried that it might finally be gone for good and get me stranded on the road in the middle of snowstorm. Cost me $150 for labor and switch was something about $250 USD

 

[toycan]

Thanks!

I just got an alldata subscription, but it doesnt show exactly how to get to it.

Its rated as 0.6 time to replace, so it must be simple enough.

If I cant reach it leaning into the engine bay from the top, it should be easy to get to from underneath.

Toyota around here wants $513.60 for the switch. Ouch. Toyotapartsdirect wants $360. Still ouch.

Now to see if the old switch can be cleaned out and reassembled. Not sure if the design on our truck has rivets or screws.

 

[scanny]

Thanks!

I just got an alldata subscription, but it doesnt show exactly how to get to it.

Its rated as 0.6 time to replace, so it must be simple enough.

If I cant reach it leaning into the engine bay from the top, it should be easy to get to from underneath.

Toyota around here wants $513.60 for the switch. Ouch. Toyotapartsdirect wants $360. Still ouch.

Now to see if the old switch can be cleaned out and reassembled. Not sure if the design on our truck has rivets or screws.

That sounds about right - I think I paid something over $500 CAD for replacement. A little bit step but it the only thing I had to repair so far so I told myself that $500 for 7 years is not too bad. If you get around removing this switch, please post pictures here, would be helpful to other who might have same issue.

 

[delloro]

If you have the 750 transmission then here are 2 diagrams

The second diagram is for a different part, but still shows the switch.

 

[toycan]

Yes, thats the correct picture. The one in alldata is incorrect.

The park neutral safety position switch on this truck is on the passenger side, NOT the drivers side like all the forum posts I have seen.

Its a 12mm nut on top, and a 22mm nut in the middle. Theres a lock washer with 4 tabs that need to be pried to 90 degrees, before the 22mm nut is removed.

A regular length box end wrench fits to remove both nuts, and is what I used. A socket wrench is probably easier to use.

There is no shift cable to remove, as the shift cable is on the drivers side.

You access the switch from under the passenger side of the truck. It can be reached without lifting the vehicle if you are 'slight'. Its located basically just behind the front tire line, just past the bend of the exhaust down pipe on the passenger side.

The centre hole on the switch is a 4 piece plastic set of threads. Mine was stuck to the metal shifter position post on the transmission. I broke off one of the 4 plastic thread towers try to pry them loose. Even with pb blaster and a lot of pulling on alternate sides of the switch, and a bit of leverage from a short screwdriver, its actually still on the truck right now.

I'll go back to pull it off tomorrow with the help of a small screw c-clamp that I will use as a gear-puller.

Then I'll finally see if the backside of the switch has screws or rivets, and if its fixable.

 

[toycan]

I got the body of the switch off after prying it off with prybars. The centre rotating plastic and part of the metal body are still attached to the shifter post on the truck. It will get heat and cut off today.

My switch is now broken in pieces in order to remove it. The switch has rivets on it, which would of made reassembly a few more steps to find the right size screws, nuts, some gasket maker. Thats assuming the 8 year old switch takes to any cleaning on the inside. While it looks possible and others have had luck with this, its probably worth it to just replace this part with new even if it came out in one piece.

There's 2 replacement parts available. The old part number is 84540-60050, and the replacement new part number is 84540-35060. The new one is about $30 more at toyotapartsdirect. Both look to be available, and now waiting to hear back from them if there's any difference they know about.

 

[toycan]

The old part number is only available in the US. The new part number 84540-35060 is whats available in Canada now. Ordered and waiting a couple days for it to get here. Its a warehouse stocked part at least, so it should take only a couple days to arrive.

Now to get the left over switch part off the truck.

 

[delloro]

The old part number is only available in the US. The new part number 84540-35060 is whats available in Canada now. Ordered and waiting a couple days for it to get here. Its a warehouse stocked part at least, so it should take only a couple days to arrive.

Now to get the left over switch part off the truck.

Do you have the adjustment procedure Piute do you need me to post it here?

 

[toycan]

Do you have the adjustment procedure Piute do you need me to post it here?

I didnt know this switch needed an adjustment procedure.

The switch looks like it is keyed and can only be installed in one position.

 

[toycan]

Finished installing the switch.

Had to use a gear puller to get the metal bits of the switch off the transmission position rod. I was just about to put a torch to it when it finally popped off.

I lightly sanded the bit of corrosion off the transmission rod, and the new switch slid right into place.

I don't know exactly how the castle washer thing works. It's keyed on the inner diameter to not rotate on the plastic threads, and has 4 parts sticking out of it. The original one had the arms bent in a bit, I'm assuming to try catching the corners of the nut and not rotate off. The washer sits a bit loose though, even with the nut tightened on.

Both nuts didn't have much torque from the factory, so be gentle when tightening.

The new switch has black paint with a white line on it, near the top nut. It looks like maybe its to align the switch to the truck vertically in line with the white mark. The old switch just had a similar line engraved in the metal.

The way the switch is keyed, I dont think it's possible to position it incorrectly.

The inside of the electical plug from the truck side has an orange rubber seal deep inside. It looks like after 8 years of being under the vehicle, its a bit out of shape. It didnt want to plug in properly to the electrical connection on the switch. I could feel and even hear a vacuum seal when trying to put the connector together, but the lock just wouldn't catch even with significant force. A sure sign something wasn't right.

I used a little bit of dielectric grease around the rim of the switch side connector, and a little bit just inside the lip of the truck side connector, and used a flat micro screwdriver to gently make sure the orange rubber seal inside the truck side connector was in its groove. Then the connector slid together with no force at all.

Shifter now engages with a smooth, positive click into each PRNDS position. The spongey sticky feel of the shifter is gone, hopefully for another 8 years.

I attached pictures of the front and back of the old and new switches.

Its freezing and I spent too much time already messing with this. Maybe I'll take a picture of where the switch is under the truck tomorrow.

Front of the old switch:


Back of the old switch:


Front of the new switch:


Back of the new switch:

 

[toycan]

Here's how the new switch looks installed on the truck after a couple weeks of Canadian winter.

Note again its on the passenger side, not the drivers side where the alldatadiy picture and other howto's show.

 

[4Runner83]

Toycan - Do you recall a black rubber washer between the range sensor and the transmission casing? I think the black washer slipped out the old range sensor when I pulled it off, but I could be wrong.

 

[toycan]

Toycan - Do you recall a black rubber washer between the range sensor and the transmission casing? I think the black washer slipped out the old range sensor when I pulled it off, but I could be wrong.

Just to be sure, I changed the neutral safety switch, and your pictures look like the same part. But your message said range selector switch, which I think is a different part. Just making sure we are taking about the same thing.

I'm quite sure mine did not have anything between the neutral safety switch back, and the gear selection stub on the right side of the transmission.

The new part did not have a black washer. The new part only had the switch, a nut and locking washer for under the nut on top of the switch.

The back of the switch where it faces the transmission is black. I had to destroy the switch to get it off the truck. One of my pictures shows the back black plastic casing all ripped apart after removal. I can see how there could be black bits that might look like parts of a washer.

Hope that helps.