First mods to 2011 SR5

[jwkilgore]

I have a 2011 SR5. I bought it for the purpose of taking it hunting, back-country camping, and other off-road uses. But it became my wife's daily driver for various reasons, and for the past several years off-road driving hasn't been in the cards. Only occasional muddy dirt roads and a few snow storms.

It's 100% stock, and it has the OEM running boards that hang down a few inches below the already-low SR5 trim.

Now I've found a better hunting spot, but I need more clearance to get there. The running boards keep hanging on ledges and boulders.

I don't have a huge amount of money to sink into this, but almost anything would be cheaper than bodywork to repair dented rocker panels or replacing ripped-off running boards.

What would the experts suggest as beginner-level mods to get a few more inches?

A basic suspension lift is a no-brainer. I'm planning on a 2.5/1.5 Daystar lift/leveler.

I considered bigger tires, but after much research I decided that the extra gas expense would kill me. My wife doesn't drive overly fast, but she leaves red lights as if she's on a drag strip.

Next up would be replacing the running boards with rock slides. Almost all require removing the SR5 rocker trim, which would cause much anguish with my wife. Supersliders from Rocky-Road have a set that fit under my current trim, but as near as I can tell they would hang almost as low as my current running boards. The advantage would be fewer mods (bolt-on, no trim cutting); the disadvantage would be no additional ground clearance. HOWEVER, if I hit I'll hit on steel rails instead of aluminum fins.

Is this a good plan? Will the lower Supersliders plus a lift give me what I want, or should I bite the bullet and cut the trim?


Edit:
Just added a pic of my stock ride as my avatar. I have to take her out and get her muddy every once in a while so she doesn't get too depressed.

 

[Titanpat57]

Any sliders will certainly provide a better level of protection then none....but the trim package puts you at a major disadvantage.

There's lots of discussions in the 5th gen section on this.

 

[jwkilgore]

I've been mining information here for a while (several weeks), but didn't know the rules on posting. Would crossposting this to the 5th gen forum be acceptable?

 

[HerT4R]

you could ask the mods to move it to that section? [MENTION=48772]Jesse1983[/MENTION] @moderators [MENTION=25058]ChildrenOfBodom[/MENTION]

see my signature for the sticky on sliders. there are many many manufacturers out there and some require trimming and some do not. You may be able to get a metal fab shop to make you a set on the cheap in your town that way you dont have to pay to ship (EXPEN$IVE).

removing the rocker panels isn't a big deal and many have done that in place of trimming. Places like shrockworks have created a trim for you to snap on in place of your factory one in case you don't like the unfinished look (but that cost $$$ as well).

also how many miles are on your truck? it might be time to just pay the money and replace the stock components anyway because they may be wore out. Bilsteins and Old Man Emu are very popular, reliable, and affordable. They are worry-free in my opinion and IIRC are lifetime warrantied.

IMHO, sliders and suspension components (new shocks and springs, front and rear) will gain you clearance and a more compliant ride.

i am 50% of the way there, suspension great now as it sits with Bilstein 5160s and 6112s (on the second groove, the middle one levels it if you dont replace the springs) and it leaves me room in the future to add rear coils and lift the front even higher if i desire. And sliders are going to be ordered when i get home. :jump:

 

[jwkilgore]

Thanks for the info! I searched and found several comparison threads, but somehow I missed the consolidated thread.

The more I think on it, the more I may go a different route on sliders. The reason I was looking at weld-on was because of the expense of bolt-on. I have part-time access to a weld shop for cheap (my dad's), but he doesn't have the ability to make the smooth bends in tubes. It would be sharp angles only. So I couldn't fab any "pretty" sliders myself, but I could easily weld on a set of DOM sliders from 4XInnovations (total cost $300+ to my door).

But, would saving $300 now (vs. bolt-on... looking at OPOR) be worth the potential resale value hit with a permanent frame mod?

I simply can't go full out and get what I want now; I also need new tires which will eat up the non-existent modification budget.

You threw me with the question about shocks... mine have 45k on them, and a web search tells me people suggest replacing at 50k! I've never replaced shocks so quickly, but then I've never done much serious off-roading. Mostly city driving. No, that's a purchase that will have to wait until it is needed. Just a lift now, and I will go with an upgrade to Bilstein or OME when the time comes.

 

[ChildrenOfBodom]

Moved to 5th gen t4rs

 

[Engineer]

You have already proven the 4runner can get to the main spot you want to be/go so my order of preference would be

*Remove steps (if thats an option for the wife)
*Remove/Cut SR5 Rocker Trim ( IIRC this does look a little funny if you don't get sliders or the Trail trim piece to "close/fill" the area )
*Tires (you mention rock ledges so maybe sliders 1st but a set of stock size AT should not hurt MPG more then 1-2 and would give me much more confidence once the road got slick/muddy/rocky.
*Sliders (bolt on - Unless you get a steel of a deal I don't think the savings (assuming 1-200) is worth the inability to remove them for future touch ups or sale.

*Lift (I would pass on this if you plan to keep the stock size tires unless you want it for looks)

 

[FrontRange4Runner]

My guess that if the stock running boards are not completely destroyed already then a set of sliders is all you will really need. I would go out and accidentally destroy one or both, take wife to the -dealership- to get a quote on new ones and then show the wife that sliders could be had for less. If you have the money then look into tires, because the stock ones are more likely to leave you stranded then a set of AT3's, BFG's, ATP's etc.. Keep in mind that if you lift the vehicle you will be taking a MPG hit no matter what and it will only get worse when you realize the tires look too small.

As to your cross posting question, I would be posting in the 5th gen section with every question about your 5th gen.

 

[jwkilgore]

Thanks for the thread move, I'll stick here from now on.

You have already proven the 4runner can get to the main spot you want to be/go so my order of preference would be

*Remove steps (if thats an option for the wife)
*Remove/Cut SR5 Rocker Trim ( IIRC this does look a little funny if you don't get sliders or the Trail trim piece to "close/fill" the area )
*Tires (you mention rock ledges so maybe sliders 1st but a set of stock size AT should not hurt MPG more then 1-2 and would give me much more confidence once the road got slick/muddy/rocky.
*Sliders (bolt on - Unless you get a steel of a deal I don't think the savings (assuming 1-200) is worth the inability to remove them for future touch ups or sale.

*Lift (I would pass on this if you plan to keep the stock size tires unless you want it for looks)

Technically, I couldn't get where I needed to be. I tried the north entrance and was stopped a few miles from the start of the WMA by the ledges. Then I tried from the south route and was stopped by a downed tree just outside the boundary. I reported the tree, but I'm not sure anyone maintains the area. The next time I go back I'll bring more tools (chain saw, ax, shovel, etc.).

Anyway, after the original post our freezer died and we lost quite a bit of food plus the repair bill... so there went the already non-existent slide budget. Plus I'd already pretty much decided to save up for bolt-ons.

Right now the plan is to:

• Still get the suspension lift. It will help some with clearance, it's cheap, and it'll look cool.
• Probably stick with stock tire sizes in an AT tread (need new tires anyway). Right now I'm debating between Gen Grabber AT2 and Nitto Terra Grapplers. If they made either in 275/70R17 I'd do that, but I don't want to go all the way to 285

I fully realize that the sliders would be more effective than a lift, but a lift is $150 vs at least $600 for decent bolt-on sliders.

I hadn't considered removing the running boards, but I could very easily remove the boards before planned off-roading then put them back later. This plus the lift would gain me several inches of clearance which may be all I need for this hunting season.

 

[Swarty]

There is only one "first mod" for off roading...

Do the Dif breather mod. Seriously should be your first mod if you are going to go off road.

 

[oljedi11950]

Best bet buy another 4r !

 

[jwkilgore]

Do the Dif breather mod. Seriously should be your first mod if you are going to go off road.

I had no idea this was even suggested. I do ford the occasional creek, so this is now on my to-do list.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/150158-rear-diff-breather-mod-complete.html

Best bet buy another 4r !

That's what my wife keeps telling me... she wants me to buy a 20-yr-old beater that I can use and abuse while leaving "her" 4Runner alone.

 

[oljedi11950]

Hahaha yep we're sick mofos !! Find a nice 4th V8 & go nuts .

 

[jwkilgore]

Ok, time to get modding. My Daystar lift should arrive Thursday and I hope to get it installed this weekend. One problem is I can't seem to find a 5th gen install guide with pictures. I've done basic mechanic work before including installing brake assemblies (rotor swap, pads, etc.), and such. My biggest project was a heater core on an old S-10, but I will NEVER do that again (the dash never did go back right).

I guess my concern is that, although I've changed oil hundreds of times on multiple vehicles, for my first time with this one I had to read [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION]'s thread before I could locate the filter! (Behind three plastic trim panels and the front skid, in case you're interested.) And I've never messed with a suspension system without supervision. I know what all the pieces are, and I'm pretty good at figuring out mechanical systems, but a go-by with pictures would give me a little more confidence.

Does anyone know of a decent go-by?

Also, I've found references that dropping the LCA is a much simpler procedure than detaching the UCA, as with [MENTION=12956]Richierollz[/MENTION]'s write-up on the 4th Gen:

0, get compressor and air tools!!!
1, Remove skid plates and swaybar
2, loosen the lower shock nut/bolt, take off the 3 bolts on top of shock
3, remove 2 bolts holding lower control arm to spindle/hub
4, loosen LCA bolts that connect LCA to frame, you need an alignment anyway! lol
5, BINGO! drop LCA all the way down and add daystar (or whatever company) spacer, even new spring install is easy squeezy this way.
NOTE: following this method you will not have to remove any brackets for ABS/Speedsensor/Xreas, or support the hub/spindle...etc
6, wiggle shock/strut assembly back into it housing and close everything back up!
WAMMO! done, I tried several other methods and removed all kinds of junk and wasted so much time, once i figured this out the 2nd side took 30 minutes and was NOOO HASTLE at all.

REAR: very easy! start with front so you feel good about yourself!! much easier with 2 ppl.

Will that procedure work with the 5th Gen? Current plan is to install lift this weekend and take it for new tires/alignment on Monday.

Thanks,

 

[jwkilgore]

Next problem. I ordered Cooper Adventurer AT's from Pep Boys today. While paying for the tires + install, he mentioned that the scheduled date would be Tuesday instead of the Monday like we'd earlier discussed. I said it was OK, then mentioned the Daystar lift I was installing.

He then said they couldn't align it properly with a lift. All their machines could do is scan the door panel and align it exactly to factory specs, but the lift would push it out of alignment. Does this guy know what he's talking about? I do know that national box stores have to do what the computer says, but should I take it somewhere else for alignment?

 

[Engineer]

He misspoke or your miss understood. With or without a lift alignment specs won't change, with a lift you potentially loose ability to get the alignment back into spec without getting new UCA with built in caster. Generally the rule of thumb around here is 2.5< you can get by without new UCA and anything above you should get them......just a rule of thumb. No truck is exactly the same so its hard to say. My 2cents was I knew I was going to have everything apart so I didn't want to have to do the job 2x so I installed new UCA with the lift. I think Daystars are spacer only lifts and assume that installation is a lot less complicated then a full suspension lift so maybe not as much of a concern. So he is correct in stating that with the lift they may not be able to get the truck back to factory specs and that is not their fault. From what you typed though it sounds like he is making stuff up, machines do no change alignment settings they measure alignment and then a Human makes the adjustments.

 

[Antman]

Next problem. I ordered Cooper Adventurer AT's from Pep Boys today. While paying for the tires + install, he mentioned that the scheduled date would be Tuesday instead of the Monday like we'd earlier discussed. I said it was OK, then mentioned the Daystar lift I was installing.

He then said they couldn't align it properly with a lift. All their machines could do is scan the door panel and align it exactly to factory specs, but the lift would push it out of alignment. Does this guy know what he's talking about? I do know that national box stores have to do what the computer says, but should I take it somewhere else for alignment?

Find a new alignment guy- it's hard to find someone that actually knows more than what "the computer screen" tells them what to do these days, lol.

Here is a writeup Sp8ball and I did for a top-plate spacer lift. May help you out a bit!

Top-plate spacer lift install with pics

 

[jwkilgore]

[MENTION=96008]Engineer[/MENTION]: What you say agrees with what I thought I knew before the tech threw the curve ball. I'm installing a 2.5" Daystar spacer lift up front with stock-size tires (265-70R-17), and I have never read anywhere about anyone not being able to align afterwards. I'd love a full LT front end, but finances right now are limiting me. I desperately need new tires, so right now I'm just going for a basic AT tire for better grip and a lift for more ground clearance. I figure about the time these tires wear out my OE shocks will also be gone, and then I'll go for the full upgrade with new LT arms, shocks, and springs. In the mean time I'll slowly start upgrading my under-armor (skids, slides, etc.).

[MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION]: I did see that thread, but on first glance I didn't think it applied to me. The current Daystar spacer style mounts above the assembly, but yours was a preload spacer requiring completely disassembling everything. But looking at it this morning... yeah, I see where I can modify your excellent write-up to do exactly what I need to do. I may post my own write-up when I'm finished.