First time brake job...found a surprise at the end

StreetCreeper

New member
So my truck has had a death shake when the brakes are applied ever since I got it last month. Feels like I'm shooting a 50cal mounted machine gun on full-auto when I hit the brakes. My 7yr old daughter was even afraid to ride in the truck.

Anyways, after learning on the forum that this is common with 3rd gen brakes, I decided to take it to Les Schwab and have them inspect the brakes and possibly repair them if it wasn't too costly.

An hour later they told me I needed new calipers but everything else looked good underneath. They quoted me approximately $230.

When I questioned what was wrong with the calipers, they hemmed and hawed about pistons and blah blah blah causing the shaking.

I called bullshit and left.

I'm no mechanic, but I'm not a complete idiot either. I knew from being a member on this forum that it was most likely warped rotors and not bad calipers.

Since they couldn't answer my basic questions satisfactorily, I figured for the price of their BS brake job, I could buy the real parts AND the tools—and just do the proper job myself. No calipers—just pads and rotors.

Well I was wrong...sorta.
The parts and tools cost me $20 more than the brake job would have...and I was damn happy to pay it.

I went down and bought all the tools needed (including torque wrench and jack stands) for less than $100.

Replacement parts (including new caliper pins) was about $130 or so plus I picked up a can of PB, a can of brake cleaner, and some brake grease too.

The job took awhile (don't laugh) because I've never even taken a wheel off a car let alone replaced the brakes. So I was slow and methodical since this was a safety issue for not just my family and I, but also everyone else I share the road with.

I had to take the first wheel back off right after I remounted it because I realized that I had used the torque specs for the lug nuts—on the caliper bolts. I know it's only a difference of 7lbs but it matters to me.

3 hours later, the death wobble was gone and the brakes were smooth as a new car. No squeals, no rattles and no complaints.

So much for Les Schwab's bullshit inspection and $230 quote for new calipers.

Now I have the tools, knowledge and experience to do the brakes again in the future...especially since I'll be doing the TBU when these brakes wear down.

For anyone (like myself) who is not an experienced mechanic, but considering doing their own disc brake job—go for it. It's not difficult at all.

Also, one thing that I did find while doing the brakes, is what looks like a CV boot that is either torn or popped off.

I didn't see an easy fix while I was in there and I was pushed for time so I just left it and finished up the brakes.

What are my options for repair of the boot? Is this a critical piece that needs immediate repair? Or can it wait for a few weeks?




 
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Based on what I've seen (and I am no expert, I am only a lurker on here), you might want to tape that torn part up so nothing can get inside. Then it's off to the Toyota dealer to get yourself a set of new OEM cv joints. Can anyone back me up on this? Or am I just sprouting s**t
 
i ran mine open ripped and grease everywhere for a year and a half through winter.

you have to replace the axle or reboot it. its not a super hard job, just takes larger tools and more time than what you did today.

there are write ups you can follow also to help you along the way.





Yeah [MENTION=115753]168981[/MENTION] is correct you can temporally tape it up with ducktape or something to try and keep grease from spraying everywhere.
 
You may be the only person I know who has used a torque wrench on brake stuff, everyone including myself has always just used the German method of gudentigt.

But hey you're keeping your family safe and there's something to be said for piece of mind.

As far as to boot goes, if you don't have an issue now you may be fine for a while but the purpose of the boot is to hold in grease too keep that joint lubricated, and keep out dirt and grit that can damage the joint and lead to "CV clunk" or failure. As it's the front drive system and not your primary it not as big a deal but it is definitely something that needs attention. When you do take it in for service see if you can't get them to clean out as much grease as they can and then fill it full of new grease before rebooting and reband clamping it.
 
I have to ask how the stock front shocks are? After 360k miles, I'd expect the ride to be a little bouncy.

Congrats on performing your first brake job. Pads and rotors are easy replaced on 4runners. I like using torque wrenches on bolts whenever I can.

CV replacement is not hard, but one needs a long breaker bar and 35mm axle nut to start.
 
Ok so I'll grab the duct tape I guess and play Dr.

Should I go all crazy and build a duct tape cast around the whole area, or just do enough so it sort of keeps the area of the tear covered?

I guess this will buy me some time while deciding if I can repair/replace it myself, or not.

But why do I feel like a kid when I think about trying to "tape up" the suspension on my 4x4?... :biggrin1:

I'll be sure to look for the write-ups for the replacement. Not sure I have the needed tools or ability yet though.

As for the being the only guy who torques a brake job and lug nuts...well I'm ok with that I guess. I'm kinda OCD about the details sometimes. Its saved my butt a time or two over the years. :bounce:

Oh and those shocks suck. Feel like I'm driving on a washboard road all the time. Between the crap tires, death rattle braking and old suspension, it's been a real eye opening experience.

Still love driving this thing though. It can only get better as I start to bring this old truck back from the grave.
 
Don't be hasty to put brand new cvs on, you may be fine just rebooting. Also, from what I've read, if you do choose to go with brand new cvs, go with oem. From what I've read, the metal toyota used is much stronger than a Napa/AutoZone replacement axle will be.
 
Rock on, brother. I didn't know too much (or have any tools) before I got into 4Runners. I know quite a bit now, though. Thanks to the forum and some knowledgeable friends. Re-booting that thing is a messy PIA. If you were that meticulous in preparation for your brake job, I bet you can replace the axle if you go about it the same way. I hate when them things rip and start spraying grey goop all over underneath there. Cheers -
 
Don't be hasty to put brand new cvs on, you may be fine just rebooting. Also, from what I've read, if you do choose to go with brand new cvs, go with oem. From what I've read, the metal toyota used is much stronger than a Napa/AutoZone replacement axle will be.

No, don't go with OEM. Go aftermarket, as they have a lifetime warranty. Then buy a reboot kit for the original and fix it when you have time. That way he'll have a spare if the A/M one ever shits the bed.

And don't even worry about taping the old boot. It's already spewed all the grease. I doubt tape will even hold up with tight turns.
 
Don't be hasty to put brand new cvs on, you may be fine just rebooting. Also, from what I've read, if you do choose to go with brand new cvs, go with oem. From what I've read, the metal toyota used is much stronger than a Napa/AutoZone replacement axle will be.

I'll assume that my truck still has the originals and they have lasted 360 thousand miles. Aside from the boot, I belive they are both still good...so yeah I guess OEM are built tough!

Thumbs up on 1st repair,hope you enjoyed a beer after job was complete,:flock:

Thanks! I don't drink anymore but Mother Nature provides for me in her own green way. Especially at the end of a good day.

Rock on, brother. I didn't know too much (or have any tools) before I got into 4Runners. I know quite a bit now, though. Thanks to the forum and some knowledgeable friends. Re-booting that thing is a messy PIA. If you were that meticulous in preparation for your brake job, I bet you can replace the axle if you go about it the same way. I hate when them things rip and start spraying grey goop all over underneath there. Cheers -

Thanks for the vote of confidence! While there is no substitute for experience. I think being methodical can carry you a long way.

So far, my research into this topic looks promising. To be honest, I'm getting the itch to try and rebuild/replace a lot of things that my wallet won't approve of. I'm assuming it is same way for all of you guys too...ya know, mentally spending your next 4 paychecks on upgrades.

No, don't go with OEM. Go aftermarket, as they have a lifetime warranty. Then buy a reboot kit for the original and fix it when you have time. That way he'll have a spare if the A/M one ever shits the bed.

And don't even worry about taping the old boot. It's already spewed all the grease. I doubt tape will even hold up with tight turns.

I like the idea of having a good spare! As for the taping, I don't know how effective it would be as far as holding up, but I guess it can't hurt, and anything that keeps it from being destroyed until I can pull it and rebuild it for a spare (thanks for the idea btw!) is a good thing.

I saw some boot kits that allow you to replace the boot without actually pulling the axle. Not sure if they are any good, or just a scam though. I'm thinking of using duct tape but fashioning it in a way so as to incorporate the equivalent accordion-like folds of a real boot to give it enough flex to avoid tearing immediately.

Sounds dumb I know, but I'm thinking of doing it just for the experience and challenge. I figure I'll secure it with zip ties or screw clamps.

This isn't to avoid a proper fix or anything, but it would be nice if I could extend the life of the axle so I can buy other badly needed things like new tires first.
 
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The outer boot can be replaced without removing the axle. It would probably be much easier to just pull it though, you have to get it out of the front hub anyways, and from there it just comes right out.
 
If you do decide on rebooting, make sure you buy good quality boots. I'm not sure if toyota sells oem boots but some chinese aftermarket ones won't last you very long.
 
I ran my axles with ripped boots for longest !!! Recently replaced it new axles and shit you not, the boots have ripped already due to the lift. It's annoying because the grease gets everywhere !!!! Anyways, no big deal honestly. Wheneve I'll get time I'll replace it with all pro extended cv boots. I believe you can simply take the axle out, take the boot of and clean everything thoroughly and re grease it and put new boot on and your good to go. If they ain't clicking or making noise they still good in a way.
 
Congrats on the first brake job. BUT, I noticed a potential problem. Your hard line is not attached to your suspension. There is a little rectangular clip that holds it in place. The way it's sitting, could lead to a brake line leak/failure from rubbing against the mount. The clip goes into a little slot on the end of the rubber line. You will have to buy a new one, probably from Toyota.

If your truck has that many miles, I'd recommend flushing the brake fluid. Get a vacuum pump and one man bleeder kit. We ran a quart and a half through my son's new old truck to get it clear when it comes out. Empty the reservoir first. The fluid looks like water (clear). What came out was brown.

And as for 1/2 shafts. Go by Toyota and see what they use. We have an axle rebuild shop here in Nashville that the local dealers use. They charge about 80 to 100 exchange for a rebuilt one. They disassemble, clean, and reassemble with a rebuild kit. This is one heck of a nasty job. Never had a problem with a rebuilt unit.

Stephen
 
Maybe a clarification on brake bleeding. Need to be careful on emptying the reservoir. You then refill it before bleeding. You do not want to totally drain the reservoir with ABS brakes
 
Not to hijack but I am going to be replacing my rotors soon as they are warped. I recently had them turned and but they still feel warped (my mechanic was just trying to save me money but next time I'll just have them replaced). The brake pads are brand new and the lines were just bled so technically I shouldnt have to bleed them right? Just move the calliper out of the way and then put back and nothing should technically change? I am going to be doing it by myself and I've only bled the brakes once before on my 92 and it was with a friend so I really would prefer not to have to bleed them. Besides supporting the calipers and undoing the brake line clip is there anything else I need to know? It sounds ridiculously easy to do from reading up on it so I am just a bit suspiscious :D
 
Not to hijack but I am going to be replacing my rotors soon as they are warped. I recently had them turned and but they still feel warped (my mechanic was just trying to save me money but next time I'll just have them replaced). The brake pads are brand new and the lines were just bled so technically I shouldnt have to bleed them right? Just move the calliper out of the way and then put back and nothing should technically change? I am going to be doing it by myself and I've only bled the brakes once before on my 92 and it was with a friend so I really would prefer not to have to bleed them. Besides supporting the calipers and undoing the brake line clip is there anything else I need to know? It sounds ridiculously easy to do from reading up on it so I am just a bit suspiscious :D

Done it by myself twice with no issues and no bleeding. It is not difficult if everything comes off. Luckily south Texas doesn't have rust issues on bolts. I would get some anti squeal for less future noise and take a few pictures. I was comparing mine after I finished with the before pictures and noticed I had put a small clip that hold the pads in - back in upside down

Noticed you are way up north. Probably going to need to prep with pb blaster if the bolts are frozen and may need a BFH to get the old rotor off. Remember to do the braking afterwards to heat up and set the new rotors.
 
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Alright I will definitely take pictures for reference, The rotors were just turned last week so I dont think getting them off will be a problem. Thanks for the advice!
 
Alright I will definitely take pictures for reference, The rotors were just turned last week so I dont think getting them off will be a problem. Thanks for the advice!

One more quick thing... the new rotors will be thicker, so when slipping the caliper back in place, it may be very tight between the brake pads. Take a C-clamp or some sort of clamp and squeeze down on the caliper trunion just a bit to make more room to slip the caliper/brakes back in place.
 

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