Good to hear. Does the SC cause the 5vz to eat plugs? I just replaced mine last month (they had been in there for nine years but only 38,000 miles) and for the driver's side the electrode was worn much quicker than the passenger but the gap was almost spot on. Quicker pickup.
I just helped a friend's kid with spark plug removal on his Dodge truck the other day, a 318 with 187,000 miles on the original plugs. We had to use an impact on two of them for removal. No misfires, they were all worn evenly.
The Huskies, I guess, will hope for a bowl game on New Year's Day.
Apparently so when it comes to an SC. With all of the research I've done on these plugs, they seem to be the plug of choice despite the different plugs that folks have experimented with. You probably already know a lot of this anyway but, here's a few quotes from the NGK website:
"When the center electrode reaches 950°C or higher, pre-ignition (early ignition) occurs, meaning that the electrode serves as a heat source and ignition occurs without a spark. Therefore, output falls and this can reach the level of electrode wear and insulator damage."
"Low heat range spark plugs have center electrode temperatures that rise easily and even at low-speed, they easily reach the self-cleaning temperature, so carbon is not deposited easily on the insulator section.
On the other hand,
high heat range spark plugs have center electrode temperatures that do not rise easily, so they are unlikely to reach the pre-ignition temperature even at high speed.
Therefore, this type of spark plug is generally used for high speed, high output engines.
That is why it is necessary to select spark plugs with the appropriate heat range for the engine characteristics, running conditions, etc."
"The discharge voltage rises in proportion to the spark plug gap.
The spark plug gap widens bit by bit as the electrode wears, so high discharge voltage becomes necessary and misfire occurs more easily."
Anyway - An Awesome site with a wealth of information. Good refresher.
DENSO SPARK PLUGS
I haven't read of anyone using an alternate 2 step colder plug successfully, or they just never followed up on their post. So until I hear differently, I'll continue to use the IK22. As for the gap, I've seen where Gadget says .043, others say .032, etc. Again, no follow up.
I wonder if converting the 3.4 to coil on plug would help the spark plug issue. I thought about replacing my wasted spark with coil on plug on my Saturn to see how it goes.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This would be nice. In the meantime, we need a double grounded 2 step colder Iridium plug so it can withstand the heat.
Glad that cleared up easily! You did a fair amount of diligence for the easiest fix, but better that than a bigger issue. Fresh plugs always make for a spritely update, and new coils can't hurt - tell me you went denso
I know you have an SC but any reason you're not running dual electrode plugs?
Can't help your huskies, bama got my attention this year, they're on fire.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
If you've read any of my "build" you'll see that I'm fairly thorough. The one common thing about the mis-fire code on Cylinder 3 is the need to change an HG. My thought process was: First and foremost, due your research and completely understand all three indications. Then begin to eliminate: Compression, Ignition, Fuel. Eliminated Compression (whew) and began with the next steps.
As for the plugs, the IK22's are proven performers on an SC 5vz. They're designed to prevent pre-ignition due to the increase in heat. I would rather change them out more frequently than risk pre-ignition.
DENSO - I learned this lesson the hard way about using aftermarket on sensors etc. So yes DENSO ONLY! My time and money was still way less than a monthly car payment!
. So I’m pulling the P0303 code on a 2000 4w: 5-speed. I’ve changed the wires, plugs, checked the coils and all ohmed within spec. Took one off another good running 3.4 for good measures and no change. I’ve checked the resistance on the passenger side injectors and I have 14.5 in #1, 15.7 in #3 and 14.4 in # 5. The book calls for. Max of 14.2 at 68 degrees. It’s a bit colder but not sure how that affects the code. So is the #3 reading far enough out of spec to be the culprit? Also, if I reset the codes and the motor is cold, it runs like a top until it gets up to operating temp. Then the check engine light starts flashing and everything goes south. Lastly, I checked the compression and it’s 195-200 on all 3 passenger side cylinders. Truck has 230k on the odometer. Look forward to feedback on next possible steps. This is not an area I have expertise in so I appreciate any thoughts. Thanks. Jim.
