For those with 285/70/17

dhatcher

New member
I've been looking over the tire fitment guide and I'm wanting to run 285/70/17's on my new trail edition. I'm wondering just how much I'll need to do to get them to fit? I see on the fitment guide it says slight modifications to avoid rub, but, seems like I've heard one might need uca's and a lift to actually get no rub with that tire size.

I have also been looking how different tire brands / models compare to each other (seems duratracs for example run wider than km2s).

I only bring it up, because I find myself questioning if I'd really need to run a lift just to fit 285/70/17?

Thoughts, opinions?
 
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Are you taking it off road? Specifically, are you going to be going full droop with the suspension? If not, you won't have to worry as much about rubbing than if you are.
 
I have 285/70/17 bfg ko2 on stealth custom series wheels. I also have a 2.5 inch icon lift. Mine only rub at full turn in reverse. They would def rub without the lift.
 
Are you taking it off road? Specifically, are you going to be going full droop with the suspension? If not, you won't have to worry as much about rubbing than if you are.

Will be going off road from easy to moderate trails but, not difficult rated trails.
 
The width of the tire is the most significant change and whether or not you change out rims and alter the offset/BS of the wheel.

If you alter the BS to allow the wheel and tire to come out away from the hub more and ultimately the suspension components then you'll probably rub the fender liners at full lock in reverse when the momentum of reverse and sharp turn drops your front end.

If you maintain factory offset/BS with 285s you run the chance of the inside tire wall rubbing UCAs. Have you considered an off size like a 255/80r17? There are a few folks running those, I know a guy on here, JABBERJAW and he I'd running that size I believe in a cooper st maxx. That my help with rubbing and still get you a taller tire. But in truth you may still get rubbing at full turn and have to do trimming.

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I've been looking over the tire fitment guide and I'm wanting to run 285/70/17's on my new trail edition. I'm wondering just how much I'll need to do to get them to fit? I see on the fitment guide it says slight modifications to avoid rub, but, seems like I've heard one might need uca's and a lift to actually get no rub with that tire size.

I have also been looking how different tire brands / models compare to each other (seems duratracs for example run wider than km2s).

I only bring it up, because I find myself questioning if I'd really need to run a lift just to fit 285/70/17?

Thoughts, opinions?

Much of the confusion arrises because not all variables are taken into account. After market wheels may not have the same backspacing and offset as factory wheels. These two additional variables could cause as much rubbing as increasing the tire size. Are we to assume that you will be using the factory wheels?

When you read comments, you must know tire size, backspacing, and off set to make informed decisions. Good luck.
 
something i am always curious about...

lets say i have 285s and get a flat in the rear... My spare is a 265 (so the diameter is different...) causing the 265 to rotate more... wouldnt this cause my rear end to be kind of messed up? because wouldnt it think its slipping but its not...

When i had xdrive you were allowed 1% difference (you couldnt run a 225 and a 245 unless they were about the same (flexing the ratio number)).

Would this mean that if i get a flat on the 285s in the rear... and i havent yet replaced my 265 for the spare... i should take a front 285 off move it to the back of the car and then put the 265 on the front?

i think thats what i have to do but just looking for confirmation.

Yes i know, or replace the spare with a 285.:rapture:
 
something i am always curious about...

lets say i have 285s and get a flat in the rear... My spare is a 265 (so the diameter is different...) causing the 265 to rotate more... wouldnt this cause my rear end to be kind of messed up? because wouldnt it think its slipping but its not...

When i had xdrive you were allowed 1% difference (you couldnt run a 225 and a 245 unless they were about the same (flexing the ratio number)).

Would this mean that if i get a flat on the 285s in the rear... and i havent yet replaced my 265 for the spare... i should take a front 285 off move it to the back of the car and then put the 265 on the front?

i think thats what i have to do but just looking for confirmation.

Yes i know, or replace the spare with a 285.:rapture:

Think about having a new tire vs a worn tire of the same size.
Think about having a low tire vs a correctly inflated tire the same size.

There you go.
 
Dang - putting a 3" lift on the trail this weekend and really hoping the 285/70/17s don't rub. On my 2010 Silverado I have LT305/55/20 and those things rub on the UCA at full lock and I'd like to avoid that here.
 
I've got bilstein 5100's set at 1.75 with 285/70/17 BFG KO2's on the stock SR5 wheels and they only rub a hair at full lock in reverse. But I fixed that with the finder mod.
 
Even as it relates to articulation?
Yes. Pretty much all "lifts" for this platform just change the static ride height, they don't make any difference in suspension travel. There are exceptions, but if you are in the exception area, you are probably there deliberately
 
something i am always curious about...

lets say i have 285s and get a flat in the rear... My spare is a 265 (so the diameter is different...) causing the 265 to rotate more... wouldnt this cause my rear end to be kind of messed up? because wouldnt it think its slipping but its not...

When i had xdrive you were allowed 1% difference (you couldnt run a 225 and a 245 unless they were about the same (flexing the ratio number)).

Would this mean that if i get a flat on the 285s in the rear... and i havent yet replaced my 265 for the spare... i should take a front 285 off move it to the back of the car and then put the 265 on the front?

i think thats what i have to do but just looking for confirmation.

Yes i know, or replace the spare with a 285.:rapture:
4runner has open diffs, it doesn't matter.
 
I have 285/70/17 bfg ko2 on stealth custom series wheels. I also have a 2.5 inch icon lift. Mine only rub at full turn in reverse. They would def rub without the lift.

Any pics of your wheel/tire setup? Thinking about doing the same (stealth 6s) on my nauti blue 4runner. Thanks!
 
mm (2 of 3).jpg

I run 285/70/17s. I have ICON 2.5s up front with JBA UCAs and spidertrax 1.25 spacers. They're cranked just shy of 3" of lift and i just had to cut a bit of plastic infront of the wheels, removed the mudflaps and i have 0 rub going forward or backwards in full lock. No CMC
 

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I am running the 285 70/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W in P-rated on SCS RAY10’s.

The Ray 10’s in 17 X 8.5bolt pattern 6 X 139.7backspace 4.30"and offset -10mm.

I have Bilstein 6112 front set at 2.5”
I have Bilstein 5160 rear with Icon 2” rear springs
Stock UCA’s
Alignment worked well all within normal tolerances

Front: slight fender rub had to shave the front fender and push the fender liner forward. Front mud flap rubs in reverse at full articulation. Will need to remove or dremel.

346baaa36531aa84ea0a7be431488b90.jpg


Rear: no rubbing at all

7f2996b5cb0c9735ec5d61dbb73e66e8.jpg


Side: does not stick out past the fender.

874bea70002e8831016834ace97d8eac.jpg


No BMC needed I would like a 3” lift in the front to make the body more level and have a slight inverse frame rake. But I did not want to replace the stock UCA’s right now.

d78ec702b336159d3c72634ae2b52cfc.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
No rub

I've been looking over the tire fitment guide and I'm wanting to run 285/70/17's on my new trail edition. I'm wondering just how much I'll need to do to get them to fit? I see on the fitment guide it says slight modifications to avoid rub, but, seems like I've heard one might need uca's and a lift to actually get no rub with that tire size.

I have also been looking how different tire brands / models compare to each other (seems duratracs for example run wider than km2s).

I only bring it up, because I find myself questioning if I'd really need to run a lift just to fit 285/70/17?

Thoughts, opinions?

I have 285's/icon stage 2/3 inch rear coil springs and get zero rub. Have a 285 in my spare compartment as well.
 
I have a 17 TRDORP and put on Wildpeak 285/70 r 17 tires last month. Here is what I had to do - as others have noted 'it depends' on what steps you have to do.

1. Fender liner mod - move it forward. This takes about 15 minutes to do both sides. You will need to do this.
2. Trim bumper - this sounds way more difficult and scary than it actually is. Before you move the fender liner forward you'll notice it is somewhat lined up with the bumper. Once you move the fender liner forward the bumper will have about an inch or so of trimming that needs to occur so your new tire doesn't hit it. Do this before you get your new tires.
3. Mud flaps - I used a heat gun to 'push back' and reshape the mud flap. In all honesty for my 4runner this step wasn't necessary because I had no rubbing coming from the mud flaps, but I had the tools and did it anyway.

Once you do all of this you will either be happy with the way your new tires look or you won't. For me it all came down to the stance of the vehicle. I felt the tires looked too stuffed so I put Bilstein 5100's all around using the stock springs. The fronts were set at .85" and somehow the rears got a slight increase in height with the new shocks. It sits perfectly for my taste now.

Good luck - you don't need a 2.5" or 3" lift to add these tires, but even if you did that you would still need to do items 1 and 2 above. You can leave your 4runner stock and run this size by doing these 3 things.
 
OP: as many have stated before me, the extent of trimming will depend on your specific vehicle. Some have had to trim fender, do UCAs, BMC, etc. and some haven’t. I’m one of those that did not have to trim.

I had 275/70s (KO2s) on the stock TRDP wheel and had plenty of space (Pro suspension and Toytec spacers on front and 2” rear springs). Decided to go up to 285/70 (Ridge Grapplers) still on stock Pro wheels and stock UCAs and still had no rubbing driving on the street and at full lock. With toe and camber at 0 my maxed out caster could only get to 2°. Didn’t get a chance to test articulation rubbing before I installed aftermarket UCAs and more lift.
 

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