Frame Rot!! Is this the end?
- Thread starter TheDurk
- Start date
Hi Durk.
You kind of confused me. I want to do this job one day. You said wire wheel & por 15 cleaner, then metal prep again before por 15 coat. If wire wheel+por 15 cleaner isn't a good metal prep for por15, what is!?
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The Por15 Metal Prep is an actual produce sold as part of the rust preventive treatment also with the Degreaser and Rust Preventive Coating. Then you use Top Coat on top of that. It's good stuff.
mckennar
New member
And it gets onto / sticks to EVERYTHING. I know this is TheDurk we're talking about here, but for future people who read this, for the love of your deity of choice, wear elbow-length gloves when working with POR-15. If it gets onto your skin and it dries, it'll take a while before it comes off.
Sincerely,
Someone who got POR-15 on his forehead and didn't realize it until well after it'd dried.
Yes it does! If you get to it quickly you can remove it. Too late on removal, you will have to wait to shed it. Need good quality gloves and try to finish the can once you open it. There are ways to reseal Por15 but that generally only works one time. Check your hands carefully before you take a leak.............:sadwave:
TheDurk
Elite Member
What he said. Cleaner and Metal prep are two different products and you are supposed to use both.
TheDurk
Elite Member
Just finished doing exactly this.
TheDurk
Elite Member
Did you learn this from personal experience?
Is it as bad as Herculiner?
How Do I Get Herculiner Off of My Hootus?! | Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
shahsmerdis
New member
How do you get a pressure washer inside the frame?
Scramble
New member
There are holes on the sides & underneath the frame. It's also open in the back.
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I used POR15 and Eastwood products.
From experience, I highly highly recommend getting POR 15 prep chemicals. A gallon of marine degreaser and gallon of metal prep. Should be enough for the whole frame. I believe you can diluted with water. However it is highly recommended to lay por15 down when it is humid outside. Por15 cures when it's humid. Trust me.
Por15 highly recommends their prep products if you lay down on smooth metal surfaces.
What I would do is power wash the inside. Then spray the shit out of with high quality degreaser and again power wash it. Let it dry and use air compressor to dry it more. Then hit it with Eastwood. Top coat it with another Eastwood product. Then por15 the outside frame. Then Bedline it. Then fluid film the whole outside and inside. And enjoy life and never worry.
I experienced with more then few products. And this is how I would do my frame.
From experience, I highly highly recommend getting POR 15 prep chemicals. A gallon of marine degreaser and gallon of metal prep. Should be enough for the whole frame. I believe you can diluted with water. However it is highly recommended to lay por15 down when it is humid outside. Por15 cures when it's humid. Trust me.
Por15 highly recommends their prep products if you lay down on smooth metal surfaces.
What I would do is power wash the inside. Then spray the shit out of with high quality degreaser and again power wash it. Let it dry and use air compressor to dry it more. Then hit it with Eastwood. Top coat it with another Eastwood product. Then por15 the outside frame. Then Bedline it. Then fluid film the whole outside and inside. And enjoy life and never worry.
I experienced with more then few products. And this is how I would do my frame.
I got it on my arms, face and in my eyes.
I suggest long sleeves, quality gloves and safety glasses. Otherwise it will be on your body for 2 weeks. Ask me how I know !
TheDurk
Elite Member
Thought I'd post a progress report as I need a little A/C time. I got the old frame out. It went about as I expected, as in a lot of work and some violence that needed done. Less than I expected, really:
-Only one body mount needed the Sawzall (front left)
-One rear shock snapped instead of unscrewing. (Gonna have to get some Bilsteins to go with the 906s)
-lost the e-brake cable bracket off the diff pumpkin. (Pretty sure I can live without this as it is not a replaceable part.)
All the other bolts came out, although some looked pretty fugly. Some of the brake lines would not come undone, but I always found a place where I could separate each line. I didn't lose any. Really a pretty good result.
The pull was very tight. I had eyeballed and I was sure it had the height to come out frontwards over the base of the engine crane, but man, I needed every mm. Gonna pull the trans counterweight to make it easier going back in.
Raining once a day, so no painting yet, but I still have to pull the front diff, the rack, and the knuckles, so plenty to do.
Still, I'm far enough along that I am confident I can get 'er done.
I'm taking a LOT of pictures and copious notes, so I hope to do a detailed DIY eventually. These are just teasers.
Here is my handy 50-year old 24hp frame pusher at work, putting the old frame in position next to the new one.
It's amazing how well the frame rolled, with a furniture dolly under the front and a HF trans jack in the back.
-Only one body mount needed the Sawzall (front left)
-One rear shock snapped instead of unscrewing. (Gonna have to get some Bilsteins to go with the 906s)
-lost the e-brake cable bracket off the diff pumpkin. (Pretty sure I can live without this as it is not a replaceable part.)
All the other bolts came out, although some looked pretty fugly. Some of the brake lines would not come undone, but I always found a place where I could separate each line. I didn't lose any. Really a pretty good result.
The pull was very tight. I had eyeballed and I was sure it had the height to come out frontwards over the base of the engine crane, but man, I needed every mm. Gonna pull the trans counterweight to make it easier going back in.
Raining once a day, so no painting yet, but I still have to pull the front diff, the rack, and the knuckles, so plenty to do.
Still, I'm far enough along that I am confident I can get 'er done.
I'm taking a LOT of pictures and copious notes, so I hope to do a detailed DIY eventually. These are just teasers.
Here is my handy 50-year old 24hp frame pusher at work, putting the old frame in position next to the new one.
It's amazing how well the frame rolled, with a furniture dolly under the front and a HF trans jack in the back.
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T4R2014
Elite Member
I go from the bigger holes in the front wheel wells. The debris will come shooting out by the trailer hitch.
mckennar
New member
I'm in awe. I mean... dang. Took you what, a day? Two days? to separate frame and body on a rust-belt truck.
Meanwhile, with my rust free southern truck I spent about 8 hours R&R'ing only the front suspension (UCA/LCA, UBJ/LBJ, ITR/OTR, springs, struts). With air tools!
We're not worthy.
:hail:
TheDurk
Elite Member
No, I started pulling the frame early last week, even before I made the first post. I was pretty sure what I was going to do. And I hit this pretty hard, despite the heat. A few hours in the AM, then more at the end of the day. I want my truck back. And I have air tools, too. Thank goodness. The impact, the ratchet, and the 12-ton air jack all got a workout.
Unfortunately, I'm not going to have as much time for a week or two.
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LookAtThatDog
New member
Great progress! I'm surprised nobody in this thread has suggested that you do a SAS while you're at it.
I'll be the first - you should SAS while you're at it!
I'll be the first - you should SAS while you're at it!
