GangsterOfLove
New member
No - desktop machine, Windows 7. Firefox.
Edit: I can see the pictures in Chrome. Very strange.
I'm glad I can see them, too! What an awesome project, and outdoors with no lift! :thumb:
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Frame Rot!! Is this the end?
- Thread starter TheDurk
- Start date
No - desktop machine, Windows 7. Firefox.
Edit: I can see the pictures in Chrome. Very strange.
I'm glad I can see them, too! What an awesome project, and outdoors with no lift! :thumb:
TheDurk
Elite Member
Like [MENTION=78000]zgensler31[/MENTION] said (thanks, Zach), that's a false alarm. Exact same position relative to body mounts and engine mounts and manual member fits perfectly.
I thought I had researched it that all frames third Gen would work.
Why did you think there was an issue?
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TheDurk
Elite Member
Well, I have to change it out because the new frame doesn't have one. But the old one with the correct mount fits perfectly. Thanks for the answer.
zgensler31
Senior Member
Cool beans man. Sorry to hear about the rust man, but glad to see youve taken on the challenge of swapping the frame. I cant remember what part of jersey your in, but im up in Orange County NY as of now and might be able to lend a hand if you needed.
Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk
TheDurk
Elite Member
OK.I guess I'll make a publlc album in my Google account for those who can't see. I'll post a link when it's ready. Thanks.
The no lift part is not as bad as I thought going in. Most of it, except the trans mount, the fuel tank, and the exhaust sensors, can be done from the sides sitting in a chair. I just did the minimum to allow the frame to come out and then I will transfer all I can back on to the new frame before sliding it into place.
Doing the clutch on jacks was much worse, even though it's a smaller job. There were a lot of things you could not do lying down and could not do from the side. So you had to get into very hard-to-hold positions. That would have been more pleasant with a jack.
The sliding the frame process does take some work, especially solo. You have to jack up and jack down as you maneuver the frame profile around obstacles like the jacks and the crane base, but it's not physically demanding. And not all that mush time. It rolls pretty well.
Does anyone have an idea how much a frame weighs? I'd really like to know.
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Scramble
New member
nope, I only use a full desk top from work & home.
IBallEngineer
New member
Find another fab shop, keep looking, seen way worse fixed before. Maybe an Offroad shop
Say what? You do know he's almost done swapping the frame right?
:doh:
T4R2014
Elite Member
Wasn't 100% sure. Maybe the 2WD to 4WD conversions are what got me confused. Either way, I figured it was safer to put it out there before you put the body back on.
TheDurk
Elite Member
You do know you're talking to a spam bot, right? :doh:
That post text is verbatim to a real post on the first page. Quote his post and you can see the post carries links to some dang thing I won't click on.
What these people gain by doing this is a mystery to me, but this forum is plagued by it. I've reported his ass.
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TheDurk
Elite Member
OK, for you and others ( [MENTION=99565]kolelt[/MENTION] ) with the problem, and anyone that wants a preview of the DIY that will come, and for my future use, I created a public album with all the pics. Some pics I will use to put it all back together and some that show the drama of squeezing the old frame out from underneath the body. Tighter than frog *****.
You won't get them in context to my posts but at least you can see them. Eventually I may put them in order with captions.
Here is the link:
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNfa6KQhlNiiE4pakASzgib4NKnJdN2ysOqUf44dEPGt9j8X61dCNtjRzncVA97IA?key=N1ZpNTdvQWVLRVZzZzZjMkpnWVliVFVRS0JqQnVB
Let me know if it doesn't work. It's still missing a bunch I took with my tablet when I couldn't find the camera.
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GangsterOfLove
New member
Looked at the pictures again. I'm intrigued by the jack for the '61 Olds.
It's a beast! Was that the stock jack that came with the car? How did it stow?
And what happened to the car?
It's a beast! Was that the stock jack that came with the car? How did it stow?
And what happened to the car?
TheDurk
Elite Member
Stock jack. Went next to the spare under the floor of the "wayback", which had its own zipcode.
It was falling to pieces before it was ten years old, and got traded in on a sedan after two of the three kids had moved at. The old man got himself a '68 Pontiac LeMans (luxury version of the GTO) with a 4-barrel 350 CID V8. Years later, that became my first car. White with red leather interior. I miss that ride.
Thanks bud. I just looked at all of them. Ouch! Glad you found a frame. Keep us updated. Good work so far !
TheDurk
Elite Member
Today I finished with the cup brush and started on the more inaccessible locations with other instruments at my disposal. I had my first disappointment with the new frame: both the center skid plate bolts had been broken off in their weld-nuts. I want my skid-plate so this needed to be fixed.
I see many posters complain about exactly this and they rarely get a detailed answer on how to deal with it. I had my camera ready so here goes:
The problem:
The solution:
1. Baptize bolt thread with PB Blaster then grind top flat to make it easier to drill.
2. Grab your handy dandy left-hand drill bits:
You can use right hand drills and it will work but the left twist has two advantages:
-many times it will twist the broken bolt out all by itself and you're done
-if not, it still helps loosen it up so it comes out easier with the extractor. Both of these twisted right out.
3. Drill a small starter hole as well centered as you can:
4. Pick your next bit size so it is as large as it can be but will not hit the threads. Angle the hole back towards center slightly to better protect the threads. Insert extractor.
5. Remove bolt.
6.Check threads with new bolt. Voilà (or walla, in internetspeak), one clean bolthole.
I see many posters complain about exactly this and they rarely get a detailed answer on how to deal with it. I had my camera ready so here goes:
The problem:
The solution:
1. Baptize bolt thread with PB Blaster then grind top flat to make it easier to drill.
2. Grab your handy dandy left-hand drill bits:
You can use right hand drills and it will work but the left twist has two advantages:
-many times it will twist the broken bolt out all by itself and you're done
-if not, it still helps loosen it up so it comes out easier with the extractor. Both of these twisted right out.
3. Drill a small starter hole as well centered as you can:
4. Pick your next bit size so it is as large as it can be but will not hit the threads. Angle the hole back towards center slightly to better protect the threads. Insert extractor.
5. Remove bolt.
6.Check threads with new bolt. Voilà (or walla, in internetspeak), one clean bolthole.
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JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
Those same bolts were broken on both my trucks. I did the same thing you did but used some heat and they came out easily. Use some anti-seize when you reinstall the bolts. One question. Are you able to see the inside of the frame in those suspect areas forward of the lower rear control arm mounts? That frame looks good but knowing what the condition of the frame in that area is the ultimate synopsis of the frame condition. I know I would want to know. Plus if you use the Eastwood frame coating on that area and it's "crusty" it won't do any good. I suspect you'll be fine though. Looking forward to seeing the completion of this.
IBallEngineer
New member
The solution:
5. Remove bolt.
Dude! Where did you get that extractor holding device?! That thing looks like a mid-evil torture device. I bet that was imported from a 3rd reich junk yard.
I use square sockets on that kind of extractor, but I've broken a few(square corners are not strong) and have resorted to hammering on a nut which I can then use a standard socket on.
I do like your finger press device though.
ound:Today I finished with the cup brush and started on the more inaccessible locations with other instruments at my disposal. I had my first disappointment with the new frame: both the center skid plate bolts had been broken off in their weld-nuts. I want my skid-plate so this needed to be fixed.
I see many posters complain about exactly this and they rarely get a detailed answer on how to deal with it. I had my camera ready so here goes:
The problem:
The solution:
1. Baptize bolt thread with PB Blaster then grind top flat to make it easier to drill.
2. Grab your handy dandy left-hand drill bits:
You can use right hand drills and it will work but the left twist has two advantages:
-many times it will twist the broken bolt out all by itself and you're done
-if not, it still helps loosen it up so it comes out easier with the extractor. Both of these twisted right out.
3. Drill a small starter hole as well centered as you can:
4. Pick your next bit size so it is as large as it can be but will not hit the threads. Angle the hole back towards center slightly to better protect the threads. Insert extractor.
5. Remove bolt.
6.Check threads with new bolt. Voilà (or walla, in internetspeak), one clean bolthole.
Must be the iPhone. Can't see the pics on this post idk why
TheDurk
Elite Member
Well, I see them when you quote them and they take up a lot of thread space. Do me a favor and delete them, please.
Go to the album, those pics are right at the bottom.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNfa6KQhlNiiE4pakASzgib4NKnJdN2ysOqUf44dEPGt9j8X61dCNtjRzncVA97IA?key=N1ZpNTdvQWVLRVZzZzZjMkpnWVliVFVRS0JqQnVB
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