Frame Rot!! Is this the end?

[TheDurk]

Logs. You're using logs to support the frame. Not jacks, not a lift, not a fancy frame spinning rig. Logs! Ash logs! Ash logs that I've no doubt you cut yourself on your own property.

May your T4R run forever and transport you in good health, and may your heart be filled with joy every time you turn the key.

You're my hero.

Yes, they are all victims of Hurricane Sandy. Thank you.

 

[TheDurk]

Today I pressure-washed and wire-wheeled the pieces, front LCAs, front diff, gas tank, front sway bar, rear UCAs and LCAs, spare tire braces and winch. Can't leave that rusty crap on my beautiful frame. Rear diff is majorly rusted and goes back on last, so it will wait.

I did learn one thing I would like to share. That POR15 Degreaser-Cleaner is awesome stuff. I had pretty much given up on ever painting my skid-plates because I could never get the caked on layer of dried oil/grease/whatever off. It was immune to normal degreaser and laughed at the pressure washer.

So two days ago when I degreased the frame I also soaked the skid-plates and I just left them. Today, when I pressure washed the ''pieces", I did the skid-plates and it took the oil layer right off. Astonishing. I'm sorry I didn't think to get a 'before' pic; it was seventeen years worth of nasty:

Finally, here is my improvised bench mount for the grinder for doing the small pieces. Worked great.

 

[shahsmerdis]

are those getting sealed up this weekend?

 

[TheDurk]

are those getting sealed up this weekend?

sealed up? Tomorrow I'll do degrease and acid prep, and Sunday I'll do both POR15 base and top coat--if all goes well. Meanwhile, I'll start wirewheeling and pressure washing on the underbody.

 

[fightman80]

You got me thinking about doing this to mine...

 

[kolelt]

Por15 degreaser is the shit. But get it in your skin. And it BURNS

 

[TheDurk]

Por15 degreaser is the shit. But get it in your skin. And it BURNS

Honestly, it didn't bother me. I was in contact for two or three minutes before I washed it off.

 

[TheDurk]

You got me thinking about doing this to mine...

Yeah, only if you HAVE to. This is a bear, but I like a challenge. Or did you mean leaving the frame on the truck?

 

[ThorInc]

Honestly, it didn't bother me. I was in contact for two or three minutes before I washed it off.

Me either actually, zero issues with the degreaser.....now the metal prep, that will absolutely burn ya silly.

 

[fightman80]

Yeah, only if you HAVE to. This is a bear, but I like a challenge. Or did you mean leaving the frame on the truck?

I meant frame off... lol... Would love to have a nice shiny new frame under mine...

 

[mckennar]

Por15 degreaser is the shit. But get it in your skin. And it BURNS

Yeah so imagine my surprise when my loving wife filled my hand-washing degreaser bottle with it (back when it was called "Marine Clean"). This degreaser bottle formerly housed biodegradable low-concentration simple green.

After about 2 days all of the top layer of skin on both of my hands peeled off. Stuff works, I'll give it that!

 

[TheDurk]

Yeah so imagine my surprise when my loving wife filled my hand-washing degreaser bottle with it (back when it was called "Marine Clean"). This degreaser bottle formerly housed biodegradable low-concentration simple green.

After about 2 days all of the top layer of skin on both of my hands peeled off. Stuff works, I'll give it that!

Obviously she didn't think you were getting your hands clean enough. You must have left fingerprints somewhere. So it was really all YOUR fault.

UPDATE: Pieces all POR'd and ready for top coat tomorrow. Too dang hot and humid to do much over the weekend.

Today's insight: I made sure to crack loose the drain and fill plugs on the front diff after painting with POR15. As always, it took a lot of force. I had anti-seized the threads, and the plug was finger loose once cracked. It is clear that it binds on the flat part that compresses the crush washer not the plug threads. I'm going to bury that washer and those mating surfaces with anti-seize this time. We'll see if it is any better next fluid change.

 

[fourfive]

I'm sure it's already been said but thanks for all the information. Mad respect for all the detailed work, updates and pics. I've been checking in on your thread regularly.

 

[Scramble]

Obviously she didn't think you were getting your hands clean enough. You must have left fingerprints somewhere. So it was really all YOUR fault.

UPDATE: Pieces all POR'd and ready for top coat tomorrow. Too dang hot and humid to do much over the weekend.

Today's insight: I made sure to crack loose the drain and fill plugs on the front diff after painting with POR15. As always, it took a lot of force. I had anti-seized the threads, and the plug was finger loose once cracked. It is clear that it binds on the flat part that compresses the crush washer not the plug threads. I'm going to bury that washer and those mating surfaces with anti-seize this time. We'll see if it is any better next fluid change.

I changed all of my gear oil & after 70,000 miles & 11 years they all came off pretty easily. No impact just 1/2" ratchets, no breaker. The toughest was the front diff drain. My 10mm hex is only 3/8 but when I put a pipe on the handle it broke free. I bought all new plugs thinking I was going to destroy them but all i needed was new gaskets.
Frequent trips to the car wash during our NE winters are really necessary. I swear by them.

Edit: I WD40'd them a week before & one more time the night before.

 

[Rock_Rat]

Honestly, it didn't bother me. I was in contact for two or three minutes before I washed it off.

Hey my friend be careful with long exposure to this stuff. (skin absorption and vapors) I looked at the MSDS and it's not wicked stuff but there is some PPE recommendations. Mostly respiratory and sensitization risks. I have a colleague of mine who might be looking for a new liver due to long exposures without PPE to MEK (Methyl ethyl ketone), PD-680, JP4 and other chemicals. Lost his job as a pilot due to his deteriorating health.

EDIT Should've mentioned he already lost his kidneys. He's on dialysys. I use "crossbow" to kill blackberry bushes and that stuff is really nasty.

Here's a link to the MSDS http://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS00018/59505222-20111224.PDF

Helluva job you're doing!

 

[TheDurk]

I changed all of my gear oil & after 70,000 miles & 11 years they all came off pretty easily. No impact just 1/2" ratchets, no breaker. The toughest was the front diff drain. My 10mm hex is only 3/8 but when I put a pipe on the handle it broke free. I bought all new plugs thinking I was going to destroy them but all i needed was new gaskets.
Frequent trips to the car wash during our NE winters are really necessary. I swear by them.

Edit: I WD40'd them a week before & one more time the night before.

Well, mine were the same then, as I did not use any penetrant and it took a short pipe on a 3/8" handle to break them loose. I just think I can make them better than that, at least on the fill, given it's only 29 ft-lbs. The drain is 48 ft-lbs, so that should take a bit of oomph. That was at 73,000 miles and eight years for the drain. I do open the fill every year in the spring. Never needed any. All the other ones break free easy, 5-speed, TC, rear diff.

 

[TheDurk]

Hey my friend be careful with long exposure to this stuff. (skin absorption and vapors) I looked at the MSDS and it's not wicked stuff but there is some PPE recommendations. Mostly respiratory and sensitization risks. I have a colleague of mine who might be looking for a new liver due to long exposures without PPE to MEK (Methyl ethyl ketone), PD-680, JP4 and other chemicals. Lost his job as a pilot due to his deteriorating health.

EDIT Should've mentioned he already lost his kidneys. He's on dialysys. I use "crossbow" to kill blackberry bushes and that stuff is really nasty.

Here's a link to the MSDS http://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS00018/59505222-20111224.PDF

Helluva job you're doing!

That's the MSDS for the actual rust preventive paint. I'm in full gear for that stuff, except no respirator, but I'm working outside and using a brush, not a sprayer. Not touching that stuff, if only because it won't come off. We were talking about the cleaner, which is considerably more benign:

http://www.eastwood.com/images/pdf/13581zp_msds.pdf

Not carcinogenic, no long-term issues, and none of the chemicals you mentioned. I still wouldn't want it in my wash soap dispenser.

 

[kolelt]

Huh? Good question. If I do, I have a guy who can do it. I'll look into it.

What do all the guys who do 5-speed swaps do? I don't think they have to do that...

[MENTION=99565]kolelt[/MENTION] Didn't you do a 5 speed into auto swap? Was there an issue with the cross-member?

[MENTION=78000]zgensler31[/MENTION] Zach, same question. Any issue with the trans cross-member putting 5-speed into auto frame?

I just skimmed two swap threads and I saw no mention of it. Drive-shafts, yes, but that doesn't apply to me. I'll measure tomorrow to make sure.

Sorry for late response. Yes I did a swap. Took out my auto and put in 5 speed. I reused the cross member that was originally mounted on the 5 speed. And it was perfect fit. I'm not 100% if you can ruse the auto tranny cross member and bolt it to the 5 speed. But if you are doing a 5 speed swap. GET THE CROSS MEMBER JUST INCASE. ( I actually took of the cross member from my old auto tranny because I'm going to use the rubber isolator , the original 5 speed one is shot almost )

 

[TheDurk]

UPDATE:

Frame is reassembled so that it is now exactly as it was when I pulled it out from underneath, including all wiring, brake and fuel lines, and silly little brackets.

It's off the logs and back onto the tranny jack in back and mover's dolly in front. It rolls really well; I can pull it with one arm. I've had supermarket carts that were harder to move. Just for fun I spun it around and lined it up where it's going to go in a few days:

I still have a fair amount of rust on the underbody I want to tackle, and a number of parts to prep and paint as well that go on AFTER the frame is in position (fuel tank and skid, LCAs, front brakes/knuckles/stub axles, and rear diff. So still a lot of work, but we're getting there.

My only complaint is I can't help getting anti-seize blotches on my nice pretty black frame. I'll pressure wash it before it goes back under.

Today's insight: Never install the front diff before the rack bushing without first inserting the long horizontal rack bolt. It won't go in unless you go back and remove the rear diff nut and tilt the diff up.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Probably a stupid question but where is the motor and the drivetrain during this swap?