Mijfwb23
New member
Decided to change my diff fluid so I thought I would post some pics and sort of do a how to writeup.
By the way this is and extremely easy mx task so don't be afraid of doing it or pay someone a ton to do it.
First off you will need a few items:
Gear oil: Toyota Genuine Differential gear oil LT 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent
The front and rear diffs use the same fluid.
Front takes:
1.50 to 1.60 liters (1.59 to 1.69 US qts, 1.32 to 1.40 Imp. qts.)
Rear takes: (Trail edition)
2.60 to 2.70 liters (2.75 to 2.85 US qts, 2.29 to 2.38 Imp. qts.)
All other models take
2.65 to 2.75 liters (2.80 to 2.91 US qts, 2.33 to 2.42 Imp. qts.)
Really all you need to know about adding fluid is add it till it runs out and then wait for it to stop coming out the filler plug and then you are full. Toyota states it is full when it is 0-5mm from the opening.
You will need new gaskets for the drain and fill plugs.
The rear diff uses two silver gaskets and the front diff uses the silver for the fill and the copper for the drain.
The gasket part numbers from Toyota are:
x3 12157-10010 (Silver)
X1 90430-24003(Copper)
So lets start with the Rear diff since it is the easiest.
Lower plug is the drain and the upper is the fill. Both are 24mm.
When you pull the drain you will notice the plug has a magnet in it to catch shavings. Since this is the first time the fluid has been changed there was some sludge on the magnet. Also ENSURE the old gasket is removed, sometimes they can stick on the diff.
After all the fluid drains out install the new gasket on the drain plug and install it with a torque spec of Torque: 49 N·m (500 kgf·cm, 36ft·lbf)
Then add fluid till it runs out of the filler hole. When it stops running out install new gasket and plug and torque to Torque: 49 N·m (500 kgf·cm, 36ft·lbf)
And thats it for the rear diff.
Now the front diff isn't hard but you will have to remove the aft skid plate. Which is just x4 12mm bolts and its down.
Then you will see the front diff.
Now with these plugs you will need a 10mm allen for both. Again upper is the filler and lower is the drain.
Both plugs are easy to remove and install. You can see in this picture that my copper drain gasket stayed on the diff. It sort of suctioned itself there, don't forget to remove it and replace it with a new one.
Again the lower drain plug has a magnet in it for metal shavings and such.
Make sure you install the drain plug with then new copper gasket and torque it to Torque: 65 N·m (660 kgf·cm, 48ft·lbf)
Now filling the front diff is tricky unless you have a hand pump. I HIGHLY recommend one. It is a really tight area and it is almost impossible to fill it from the containers. I constructed a crazy funnel setup that worked for me but I will buy a pump next time.
After you fill it and it stops running out the filler plug then install the new gasket and plug and torque to Torque: 39 N·m (398 kgf·cm, 29ft·lbf)
Don't install the skid plate yet, take it for a drive and then come back and check the level and for leaks. If all is good then install the skid and you are all done.
As for my fluid condition: Rear was dirty and I think needed changing, Front was pretty clean and probably didn't.
I have taken my runner in the water quite abit and that is why I changed them just to be safe. I have 20k miles on my 2010 so you can tell I don't drive much but the whole process took me less then an hour and only cost $30 in supplies so it was worth the piece of mind I now have. Hopefully this helps someone out there.
By the way this is and extremely easy mx task so don't be afraid of doing it or pay someone a ton to do it.
First off you will need a few items:
Gear oil: Toyota Genuine Differential gear oil LT 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent
The front and rear diffs use the same fluid.
Front takes:
1.50 to 1.60 liters (1.59 to 1.69 US qts, 1.32 to 1.40 Imp. qts.)
Rear takes: (Trail edition)
2.60 to 2.70 liters (2.75 to 2.85 US qts, 2.29 to 2.38 Imp. qts.)
All other models take
2.65 to 2.75 liters (2.80 to 2.91 US qts, 2.33 to 2.42 Imp. qts.)
Really all you need to know about adding fluid is add it till it runs out and then wait for it to stop coming out the filler plug and then you are full. Toyota states it is full when it is 0-5mm from the opening.
You will need new gaskets for the drain and fill plugs.
The rear diff uses two silver gaskets and the front diff uses the silver for the fill and the copper for the drain.
The gasket part numbers from Toyota are:
x3 12157-10010 (Silver)
X1 90430-24003(Copper)
So lets start with the Rear diff since it is the easiest.
Lower plug is the drain and the upper is the fill. Both are 24mm.
When you pull the drain you will notice the plug has a magnet in it to catch shavings. Since this is the first time the fluid has been changed there was some sludge on the magnet. Also ENSURE the old gasket is removed, sometimes they can stick on the diff.
After all the fluid drains out install the new gasket on the drain plug and install it with a torque spec of Torque: 49 N·m (500 kgf·cm, 36ft·lbf)
Then add fluid till it runs out of the filler hole. When it stops running out install new gasket and plug and torque to Torque: 49 N·m (500 kgf·cm, 36ft·lbf)
And thats it for the rear diff.
Now the front diff isn't hard but you will have to remove the aft skid plate. Which is just x4 12mm bolts and its down.
Then you will see the front diff.
Now with these plugs you will need a 10mm allen for both. Again upper is the filler and lower is the drain.
Both plugs are easy to remove and install. You can see in this picture that my copper drain gasket stayed on the diff. It sort of suctioned itself there, don't forget to remove it and replace it with a new one.
Again the lower drain plug has a magnet in it for metal shavings and such.
Make sure you install the drain plug with then new copper gasket and torque it to Torque: 65 N·m (660 kgf·cm, 48ft·lbf)
Now filling the front diff is tricky unless you have a hand pump. I HIGHLY recommend one. It is a really tight area and it is almost impossible to fill it from the containers. I constructed a crazy funnel setup that worked for me but I will buy a pump next time.
After you fill it and it stops running out the filler plug then install the new gasket and plug and torque to Torque: 39 N·m (398 kgf·cm, 29ft·lbf)
Don't install the skid plate yet, take it for a drive and then come back and check the level and for leaks. If all is good then install the skid and you are all done.
As for my fluid condition: Rear was dirty and I think needed changing, Front was pretty clean and probably didn't.
I have taken my runner in the water quite abit and that is why I changed them just to be safe. I have 20k miles on my 2010 so you can tell I don't drive much but the whole process took me less then an hour and only cost $30 in supplies so it was worth the piece of mind I now have. Hopefully this helps someone out there.
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I would guess that the angle of my driveway is what allowed the drops to leak through the fill. 
