Front and Rear Diff fluid change

Just rolled 18K on my 2016 Yeah I have put some $ into it but that's irrelevant. Fact remains that fluids can never be too clean and there is really no such thing as over maintaining any vehicle. Yes I dropped the diff fluid at 11K just to get the crap out of it. I will do 30K changes from here on out. Yes I change my engine oil every 5K rather than every 10K like Toyota recommends because I simply want to. I will do the same with the 2019 Highlander I just bought. Yes I will spend the $85 or so on a can of the correct 75W oil for the transfer case when the time comes. Does the 75-90 work in the transfer case work? Probably, but it is not what is recommended. Would you throw 80-140 in the diffs or 10-30 in the engine? No, you wouldn't, and for good reason. So why is it acceptable to run oil in the transfer case that is not recommended by the manufacturer? I am not the one spreading poor advice here. People saying "yeah sure 75-90 is perfect for the transfer case" for no other reason than the fact they have done it, that's spreading poor info. Just because you did something doesn't make it right and doesn't mean it's a good idea.
Words in bold contradicts every actions described... Just sayin

Manufacturers recommends all kinds of things. But that doesn't mean that's the end of it. There are alternatives.

Yes 75-90 is different than 75w. But is it that much more different that it would break something? People have been running 75-90 throughout the life of the vehicle without issue. But hey, different folks different strokes I guest.

Your argument is kinda goofy though lol
 
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Too funny, but oh so accurate. That people like 216 4Runner SR5 exist has allowed me to make tons of money.
 
It's actually the people that have no clue what they're doing, attempt to play mechanic, and destroy things, that make real mechanics tons of money. Like the shop I work for that brings in about $550,000 per month. That's right, $550,000 per MONTH. So much of that is due to abuse, lack of proper service, and clueless people in general. I do love it though, keep or wrenching! If it wasn't for you, we wouldn't be in business.
 
It's actually the people that have no clue what they're doing, attempt to play mechanic, and destroy things, that make real mechanics tons of money. Like the shop I work for that brings in about $550,000 per month. That's right, $550,000 per MONTH. So much of that is due to abuse, lack of proper service, and clueless people in general. I do love it though, keep or wrenching! If it wasn't for you, we wouldn't be in business.

Uh-huh. And exactly how much of that $550K a month can you demonstrate was charged to customers because they put the "wrong" weight oil in their 4Runner transfer cases?

Thought so.

Your "Oil OCD" is based on fear and superstition, and no matter how hard you try to defend it on logical grounds, you'll always lose. Go ahead and indulge your irrational fears if you want to, but the constant repetitive inflammatory rhetoric trying to win converts to your warped way of thinking sure gets tiresome.
 
It's actually the people that have no clue what they're doing, attempt to play mechanic, and destroy things, that make real mechanics tons of money. Like the shop I work for that brings in about $550,000 per month. That's right, $550,000 per MONTH. So much of that is due to abuse, lack of proper service, and clueless people in general. I do love it though, keep or wrenching! If it wasn't for you, we wouldn't be in business.

You forgot to hype up the fact your a "genuine SAE certified mechanic" and changing oil is far to complicated for mere mortals.
 
LOL nope, I'm certified in my field on multiple levels but not SAE Working on heavy equipment, maintaining $300,000 rigs. You keep going though, whatever works for you. There is just no getting through to some people and honestly I really don't care. I have learned over the years and I absolutely love people that don't properly maintain their equipment. Make me a boat load of $ when a 2 year old $60,000 piece of equipment needs $10,000 in repairs due to abuse and neglect. In actuality, people not taking care of their equipment properly benefits me!
 
LOL nope, I'm certified in my field on multiple levels but not SAE Working on heavy equipment, maintaining $300,000 rigs. You keep going though, whatever works for you. There is just no getting through to some people and honestly I really don't care. I have learned over the years and I absolutely love people that don't properly maintain their equipment. Make me a boat load of $ when a 2 year old $60,000 piece of equipment needs $10,000 in repairs due to abuse and neglect. In actuality, people not taking care of their equipment properly benefits me!

But but master tach. Aren't we talking about diff fluid? Did 75-90 break a bunch of stuff? Where's the data sheet? Where's the thousands of examples from using 75-90?

When you're losing a debate and now you're talking about cloud shapes.

Focus my friend, your goofiness is strong today.
 
I can't say that is absolutely will cause failure. You can't say that it absolutely won't cause failure. I can tell you that is absolutely not what belong in the case, that's fact. Free advise is worth just that, absolutely nothing. People come here for facts and that's what they should be given. Saying you did it and it worked doesn't mean everyone should go out and do it. I'm not going to continue going back and forth though, just not worth my time anymore. Use what you want but don't claim to be an expert just because you've done something out of pure cheapness and not wanting to pay a measly $85 for the correct fluid for your $40,000 vehicle. Guarantee I have far more experience than 90% of the people on this page, that counts for more than anything else. Carry on everyone, nothing more to see here.
 
I changed my 2005 Toyota 4 runner rear differential today. The oil that I drained was amber and clear and looked new. I'm thinking one of the mechanics changed it recently and forgot to put it on the bill.
 
It's very possible they switched it out for 75W purely for the super slight increase in economy which is what it's all about these days. If they can get .1 MPG better using a different oil, they will do it. Guys that have switched to 75-90 have stated a slight drop in fuel economy so who knows.
 
I think I track my fuel economy more closely than 99% of 5th gen 4Runner owners. I also do the same drive 10-15 times a year, and another 4 times a year.
I'll tell you, after factoring out speed and cold tire pressure, air temp, altitude, and wind have the most significant effect on my mileage. I'm sure temperature and altitude because it affects the tire pressure as well. Point being, I can barely tell even going from an AT to a street tire (.5MPG over 30,000 miles) let alone something like oil viscosity.
 
I think I track my fuel economy more closely than 99% of 5th gen 4Runner owners. I also do the same drive 10-15 times a year, and another 4 times a year.
I'll tell you, after factoring out speed and cold tire pressure, air temp, altitude, and wind have the most significant effect on my mileage. I'm sure temperature and altitude because it affects the tire pressure as well. Point being, I can barely tell even going from an AT to a street tire (.5MPG over 30,000 miles) let alone something like oil viscosity.

According to your Fuelly you’re getting 21MPG. That’s pretty damn good. Mostly highway miles?
I’ve only hit 22MPG on a tankful occasionally while on long freeway trips. Only once I got 24. My combined average city/hwy is more like 18. Lots of city driving.
 
I do about 80% highway about 70 MPH most of the time and 20% around town at about 40 MPH I average about 14.5 MPG lol Kind of a lost cause at this point anyway.
 
It's very possible they switched it out for 75W purely for the super slight increase in economy which is what it's all about these days. If they can get .1 MPG better using a different oil, they will do it. Guys that have switched to 75-90 have stated a slight drop in fuel economy so who knows.

CAFE requirements - this likely has a lot of merit. Same goes for the 75W-85 they spec for both differentials. Oddly enough, the Motul Gear 300 75W-90 I just put in my rear diff seems to have resulted in a slight fuel economy bump (1 mpg). Factory fill was 2.8 Liters, but it took 3.2 Liters to reach the fill hole. We'll see if that holds up over several tanks.

Also, a lot of manufacturers install oem tires that have ultra low rolling resistance, as this gets them a bump on EPA fuel economy ratings. Tires were like rocks on the last couple VW's I owned, and they had horrible traction on anything but perfectly dry roads.

The oem Bridgestones on my 4R don't seem too bad thus far, but I haven't driven much on wet roads.
 
According to your Fuelly you’re getting 21MPG. That’s pretty damn good. Mostly highway miles?
I’ve only hit 22MPG on a tankful occasionally while on long freeway trips. Only once I got 24. My combined average city/hwy is more like 18. Lots of city driving.
Not only highway but mostly back highways. The good MPGs (22-23) comes from the trip I do 10-15 times a year down CA Hwy 395. 55 to 70MPH. My 4 times/year trip includes I5 and that's 65-80mph. You can watch the MPGs drop from 22-23 to 20-21 pretty quickly. Throw in a headwind and it can drop below 20. Also, my weekday commute is 5 miles RT and I can take it pretty easy around town. It all adds up to good mileage and long life on the brakes. Now my tread wear is another story...
 
CAFE requirements - this likely has a lot of merit. Same goes for the 75W-85 they spec for both differentials. Oddly enough, the Motul Gear 300 75W-90 I just put in my rear diff seems to have resulted in a slight fuel economy bump (1 mpg). Factory fill was 2.8 Liters, but it took 3.2 Liters to reach the fill hole. We'll see if that holds up over several tanks.

Also, a lot of manufacturers install oem tires that have ultra low rolling resistance, as this gets them a bump on EPA fuel economy ratings. Tires were like rocks on the last couple VW's I owned, and they had horrible traction on anything but perfectly dry roads.

The oem Bridgestones on my 4R don't seem too bad thus far, but I haven't driven much on wet roads.

Funny you say that. When I serviced both diffs at 11K just to get the crap out of them, I used 75-90 Mobil 1 in them. Took a road trim the same day and I too noticed a slight increase in economy. Thought it was all in my head but maybe there is more to it. I also put in more than I took out.
 
Doing my diffs this wknd. What is the orientation of the washer that has two different sides? Flat side against plug or Diff? I'd post a pic, but website AGAIN will not allow me to do so.
 
Well, I changed my rear differential fluid today, at 30,000 miles. Like everyone has been saying it was black and dirty and there were some gritty particles in the bottom of my drain pan. Replaced with Amsoil Severe 75W90.
Not a difficult job. Especially if you use the soft squeeze bottles. Unfortunately I also had to use one of the traditional bottles with a pump, and the cleanup from that took more time than any other part of the process.

Question for those who have done this multiple times:
Does the rear diff oil always look this nasty at every subsequent change?
 

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