Front and Rear Diff fluid change

My local NAPA dealer told me NOT to use the synthetic Valvoline 75W90 in my diffs if the original oil is not synthetic. I am at 32000 miles on my 19 TRD OR with the OEM filled oil & want to change both front & rear diff oil.

Is the NAPA guy full of cukka or does he have a valid point ?

In other words, is it safe to replace the original diff oil with synthetic ?

Years ago when I did my 2010 4R diffs & transfer case I only used the genuine Toyota oils but I was hoping to get away from the expensive "liquid gold" stuff.

Ignore the local NAPA guy. Our 2014 SR5 has 305K miles on Mobil Delvac Synthetic 75w90, that’s for all but the original fill.
 
I doubt if any oil companies know the exact ingredients and manufacturing process of the Toyota 75W.

You could go to any oil product company and they say, we don't know exactly what it is as Toyota has not released information about it.

That being said, any decent oil should work and nothing will explode. But there is a difference between "should work/works" and "works optimally as designed".

So it all boils down to which you prefer for the price.

You’re kidding. Toyota does not make their oil, it is made for them under contract and that manufacturer for damn sure knows what goes in it. They don’t make pure 75w because the market for it is too small and the 75w90 is no worse and arguably better at higher temps.
 
It is ridiculous what people will tell people. FYI, I just changed the diff oil on my 2016 SR5 at 100K. And I put in Valvoline Synthetic 75W-140 GASP!!!! I got several quarts cheap, and it came in those neat squeezable bottles! I'll let you know if anything goes badly, but, trust me, nothing will.
 
Well I bought the Valvoline 75W 90 synthetic for the diffs & Royal Purple Synchromax for the T- case. I do like the Valvoline collapsible bags which eliminate the transfer pump. It should be easier squeezing the bag into the filler port on the front diff.
 
So, I thought I should inform everyone that Redline Oils is shortchanging their customers. 3 "quarts" of Redline 75w85 does not fill a rear diff on a 5th gen 4Runner. In fact, it took most of a 4th "quart" to do it, and after driving a few miles, it took 4 full Redline "quarts" to fill my rear diff.

I cannot remember the last time I was this upset about something, as it rendered my car inoperable for over a week while I made enough of a fuss to get the 4th quart overnighted to me for free.

I will never use a Redline product again, and will do everything I can to ruin their name. They are liars. Based on this experience, I am draining their fluid tomorrow and replacing it with something from someone who can at least be honest about the quantity of product sold.

I am disgusted with Redline and the Pennzoil Group. I piss on you from a considerable height.


I had the same experience.
I just did the rear diff with Redline and mine did not drip till about 3.5qt-3.7qt

weird....
 
I suspect the fill quantities are for minimum amounts, e.g. I put 3 liters of Toyota OEM fluid in the rear and never got overflow from the fill plug. Level was in the sat range but not at max. So buy plenty of fluid. 5L will do both front and rear
 
East Coast Gear Supply recommends non-synthetic Lucas in all their stuff so YMMV.
East Coast Gear Supply FAQ

Edit: non-synthetic, not no-synthetic.

Interesting read. They did rate the Toyota oil rather well, which was nice to see. The chart for temperature to fluid change interval has me wondering though...especially regarding the high temps the diffs see during break in.

Has anyone ever been geeky enough to check their diff temps on a 4Runner? I had probes on my Ram 3500, but I was also occasionally towing very heavy through the mountains. Never even considered doing it with this truck...would taller gearing, like in a stock 4Runner, cause higher temps? Looks like I'm about to go down a rabbit hole lol
 
You’re kidding. Toyota does not make their oil, it is made for them under contract and that manufacturer for damn sure knows what goes in it. They don’t make pure 75w because the market for it is too small and the 75w90 is no worse and arguably better at higher temps.

No, I am not kidding. Toyota is not in the oil business, however, it knows the exact composition of metals and alloys used in its parts and it collaborates with the oil manufacturer (most probably Idemitsu) and others to formulate the oil.

Same with its OW-20. Exxon makes it for them but it's not the same as Mobil1. Apart from satisfying the specs, the Toyota version has more moly. In fact, my previous oil changes for my 2017 4Runner were in this sequence,

1) Eneos Ow20 - Very good oil if you can get free shipping on these.
2) Idemitsu Ow20 - This oil was great. Idemitsu pioneered OW20 grade oil.
3) Mobil1 0W20 - Very good.But the drained oil and filter had metal parts. Maybe normal for 60k? Not sure I saw that much on the previous oil changes.
4) Just changed it with Toyota 0W20. Very smooth so far but it's new. The true test is how the oils hold up after 3k.

Want to try Castrol and Kirkland oil next.

I have always used Castrol Edge on my 2007 4Runner and ran it up to 160k and sold it. So this time I wanted to try different ones and see which is better.

But I was watching videos of David from "Automotive Press" on Youtube who was talking to a Takumi Engine Builder for Nissan GTR. Interestingly he said that if you want your engine to last a long time, you can use any cheap oil and filter but change your oil every 3k religiously as after that it starts to degrade rapidly. Maybe he is right and he suggested Castrol.
 
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I had the same experience.
I just did the rear diff with Redline and mine did not drip till about 3.5qt-3.7qt

weird....

I had the opposite, using the big Red jug of REdline 75w90 filled exactly where it should have with alittle extra left behind. To get mine empty let it slowly drip out of a few days before the fill.

I dunno Ive always found they volumes to be bang on. Maybe you guys got a bad run?
 
No, I am not kidding. Toyota is not in the oil business, however, it knows the exact composition of metals and alloys used in its parts and it collaborates with the oil manufacturer (most probably Idemitsu) and others to formulate the oil.

Same with its OW-20. Exxon makes it for them but it's not the same as Mobil1. Apart from satisfying the specs, the Toyota version has more moly. In fact, my previous oil changes for my 2017 4Runner were in this sequence,

1) Eneos Ow20 - Very good oil if you can get free shipping on these.
2) Idemitsu Ow20 - This oil was great. Idemitsu pioneered OW20 grade oil.
3) Mobil1 0W20 - Very good.But the drained oil and filter had metal parts. Maybe normal for 60k? Not sure I saw that much on the previous oil changes.
4) Just changed it with Toyota 0W20. Very smooth so far but it's new. The true test is how the oils hold up after 3k.

Want to try Castrol and Kirkland oil next.

I have always used Castrol Edge on my 2007 4Runner and ran it up to 160k and sold it. So this time I wanted to try different ones and see which is better.

But I was watching videos of David from "Automotive Press" on Youtube who was talking to a Takumi Engine Builder for Nissan GTR. Interestingly he said that if you want your engine to last a long time, you can use any cheap oil and filter but change your oil every 3k religiously as after that it starts to degrade rapidly. Maybe he is right and he suggested Castrol.

335K miles on a 2014, all on non-OEM synthetic fluids. Guess I voided my warranty?
 
There are always fools and that will never change. Glad you're making a stand.

Some when standing in a hole will shout throw me a rope ive had enough of this shit..

Others.. well they are like does anybody have a bigger shovel its taking forever to dig to China..

:thumb:
 
Any off the shelf gear lube of the correct viscosity.

Most seem to run 75w90 in diffs. I did that for front and read but ran 75w85 in the transfer case.

I used Redline as ive used Redline since the 90s.

ONe thing to keep in mind is that you cant actually get the OEM Toyota synthetic diff lube as the dealers dont stock it but use non OEM mineral grade 75w90 inspite of what their own service manuals call for
 
Time to replace my rusty old drain and fill plugs. Finding part numbers online these days is ridiculous.
Pretty sure the fill plug is: 90341-A0002 but I’m going to my local dealer to verify. No idea of the drain plug.
33,000 miles on this fluid and it looks clean. Not much gunk on the magnet.

Edit:
Rear Diff Fill Plug: 90341-A0002 (Straight Screw Plug with Head) $8.64 MSRP.

Rear Diff Drain Plug w/magnet: 90341-18057 (Plug Sub-Assembly with Head Straight Screw) $15.95 MSRP.
My local will sell at MSRP online for pickup but wants 50% more for a in-person sale.
 

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any time [MENTION=53327]1000MPH[/MENTION]

Google AI mode has gotten incredibly good too and faster than partsouq.

Prompt:
need part numbers for a rear diff fill and drain plug on a 2016 Toyota 4Runner

Result:
Component Part Number Typical Price
Rear Drain Plug 90341-18057 ~$13.00 - $16.00
Rear Fill Plug 90341-18006 / 90341-A0002 ~$8.50 - $14.00
Gasket (Need 2) 12157-10010 ~$1.60 - $2.50
 

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