Front axle replacement

J

Jack08520

New member
I have the well documented "torn boots problem" after putting the Toyotec lift kit in my '02. It has 180K miles so I guess I might as well do it the right way and replace them. I've read some of the online FAQs and I think I can manage this myself. I was looking at some on JC Whitney "Cardone" one is a reman of an OE axle

http://www.jcwhitney.com/cv-drive-axle-remanufactured/p2022110.jcwx?filterid=d2166y2002g12j1

And the other is new/aftermarket

http://www.jcwhitney.com/select-cv-drive-axle-new/p2022127.jcwx?filterid=d2166y2002g12j1

I'm leaning towards the rebuilt OEM. I also found a "really hefty offroad unit" that was about $1000/axle which is a bit much for street and occasional mudding. Is there anything else available?

Thanks in advance!
 
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CVJ Axles in Denver, CO does remanufactured OEM axles. Around $80/axle. I paid $30 more per axle to get a longer silicon inner boot. They charge you for core too just so you know, $75/axle. If you send both old axles back your around what that one JCwhitney axle costs.
 
FR4R said:
CVJ Axles in Denver, CO does remanufactured OEM axles. Around $80/axle. I paid $30 more per axle to get a longer silicon inner boot. They charge you for core too just so you know, $75/axle. If you send both old axles back your around what that one JCwhitney axle costs.
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Glad to know this information. I have replaced the passenger side but not the driver side yet. I will use them for the driver side. Maybe replace the passenger side with theirs also if they look stronger. I bought mine from Autozone. It is an easy replacement.
 
Everyone to their own driving likely but, as the OP mentioned; street use and occasional mudding.
 
CVJ axles

Get a high quality OEM rebuild for something like 150, or less if you return your core

I bought one and still haven't broken it, but I haven't broken the Autozone one either.
 
Kurtis said:
Everyone to their own driving likely but, as the OP mentioned; street use and occasional mudding.
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I used an Advanced Auto Parts replacement from a company named GTP to replace mine after wheeling fairly hard and driving badly. The non-OEM looks like its in rougher shape after only a year and that's compared to the other one that is 13 years old at this point. I would recommend getting the one from the company in Denver and not the non-OEM. Gerdo told me that he's had the non-OEM ones break off in the diff which the thought of alone makes me want to replace my non-OEM one before I risk it on my next trip.
 
Axles

I got the CVJ axles and they showed up today. I figure I might as well replace the front wheel bearings while I have it all apart (its got 180k miles). I got inner and outer seals and also the bearing. I read about a "disc brake spash seal gasket" should I get a pair of these? Anything else I missed? Also doing the lower ball joints - the uppers were included with the Toyotec kit that went in not long ago. Also when the guys did the job they neglected to give me the wrenches needed to adjust the toyotec front shocks - anyone have a trick for these slotted nuts?
 
If you truly wheel, more than fire roads, (not that there is anything wrong with that) the non-OE will break easier due to cheap steel that is poorly heat treated.
 
Jack08520 said:
I got the CVJ axles and they showed up today. I figure I might as well replace the front wheel bearings while I have it all apart (its got 180k miles). I got inner and outer seals and also the bearing. I read about a "disc brake spash seal gasket" should I get a pair of these? Anything else I missed? Also doing the lower ball joints - the uppers were included with the Toyotec kit that went in not long ago. Also when the guys did the job they neglected to give me the wrenches needed to adjust the toyotec front shocks - anyone have a trick for these slotted nuts?
Click to expand...

Yeah, you are talking ALOT more work to the bearings. Don't do them unless you need to. Are they humming?

Check out my build thread, I replaced my bearings a while back. Check out the fiche diagrams on a dealer's website, like toyotapartsales.com or the FSM (See the documentation and reference sticky). It will show you all the parts you need. I re-used all my seals, but I had to be very careful about not damaging them when I removed them. Pry carefully if you go this route.
 
Axles

To the one respondent - the CVJ axles are rebuilt OEM units and they asked me before they shipped if the ones I will be returning are also OEM. I paid extra for the better-grade silicone rubber boots (on the inboard side) and they reposition the outboard boots for better longevity.

The bearings are not humming (yet) - but again with 180k miles why not replace them? We have a garage with a press near us...
 
Axle replacement (with pics) - done!

The only real problems I had were with the upper and lower ball joints. I was able to separate the lower with a BAP (Big Ass Puller) and the upper I had to go buy at 32mm socket to remove the nut (this was part of the Toyotec replacement A-arm that came with the Ultimate Lift Kit I had already installed). Thanks to the group - the wheel nut is a 35 mm and I got that on Amazon.

The difference between the old axles and the CVJ replacements is obvious!

Toyota 4Runner Forum - Jack08520's Album: New axles - Picture

My only concern is the fit of thet axles into the differential. This is the pass side at "maximum outward travel" - it sits about 1/8in away and when pushed into the diffy it seats firmly against it.

Toyota 4Runner Forum - Jack08520's Album: New axles - Picture

This is the drivers side - the max outward travel is about 1/4in away - and when pushed all the way in its still sitting about 1/8in away from the diffy - it does not seat up against the diffy like the pass side does

Toyota 4Runner Forum - Jack08520's Album: New axles - Picture

I removed the axle and put it back in - no help its as in as far as it will go. CVJ suggested I swap sides but by that time I already had the drivers side in and had removed the pass side once already - didn't want to beat up the dust shields any more.

I've driven it about 300 miles - all is well (after alignment) and no vibrations. Should I be concerned about the extra gap on the drivers side?

Also as part of this job I had the wheel bearings replaced (knuckles here)

Toyota 4Runner Forum - Jack08520's Album: New axles - Picture

And they blasted the hubs and got all the rust off the hubs. I put on a new set of Centric drilled/slotted rotors and I'm hoping that the pulsation will be done. I've had 2 sets of powerslots and both pulsed like mad - not sure if it was the rotors or fit onto the hub.
 
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