Front brake caliper & pad replacement
- Thread starter Kmvreter
- Start date
scottm
New member
I took a few pics of my caliper swap when I did my ball joints, in this writeup. Not sure if I should re-post them here or just a link?
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...nt-install-brake-calipers-lossa-pictures.html
Official brake line plugs are one of the cooler things I've found for doing caliper swaps with minimal mess, I had my calipers off for a couple days while I struggled with the ball-joints. A bottle with 1/4" poly hose for bleeding brakes is a must, not much invested in it. Get a water bottle, drill a tiny vent hole in the lid, and a hole that the poly hose will fit tight through, and you have the setup shown in the Toyota service manual. I even have a smaller bottle and hose for the brakes on my mountain bike.
Grease brakes with silicone grease, aka dielectric grease at the auto-parts stores. It can take 3000°F, most any other lube turns to dust at a few hundred degrees. Silicone grease is sold as O-ring lube, so it's great for any rubber parts. I always use it on hose nipples and inside hose ends, so I can get them apart years later.
I've tried moly-grease on brakes, works ok, tried high-temp anti-seize, it turns to dust.
Unscrew the bleed screws and coat the threads with silicone grease before putting them back in, it helps keep air from getting back in.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...nt-install-brake-calipers-lossa-pictures.html
Official brake line plugs are one of the cooler things I've found for doing caliper swaps with minimal mess, I had my calipers off for a couple days while I struggled with the ball-joints. A bottle with 1/4" poly hose for bleeding brakes is a must, not much invested in it. Get a water bottle, drill a tiny vent hole in the lid, and a hole that the poly hose will fit tight through, and you have the setup shown in the Toyota service manual. I even have a smaller bottle and hose for the brakes on my mountain bike.
Grease brakes with silicone grease, aka dielectric grease at the auto-parts stores. It can take 3000°F, most any other lube turns to dust at a few hundred degrees. Silicone grease is sold as O-ring lube, so it's great for any rubber parts. I always use it on hose nipples and inside hose ends, so I can get them apart years later.
I've tried moly-grease on brakes, works ok, tried high-temp anti-seize, it turns to dust.
Unscrew the bleed screws and coat the threads with silicone grease before putting them back in, it helps keep air from getting back in.
Last edited:
paraordnance
New member
Frozen calipers, again...ughhh. I replaced OEM calipers 2 years ago with some Raybestos (professional grade) remanufactured units from Rockauto. My driver/front caliper is seized now after 30k miles. I'm just wondering if anybody had any luck replacing calipers with new OEM parts instead of reman units? Will new calipers last more than 2 years? I'm not looking to replcae calipers every two years, so I'm looking for alternatives. OEM calipers are just $220 each from 'toyotapartsdirect', where re-man units are around $180. I don't mind paying $40 extra for new part if its going to last more than 2 years. Did anybody here replaced seized calipers with OEM new parts? How long did they last? Thanks
Toyo4Running
New member
Got the same problem. Buying a part from a Toyota dealer is kinda pricey. I need to buy a more affordable yet reliable calipers for my ride. Is Raybestos alright? I think I saw something like that online.
paraordnance
New member
NO. Raybestos (professional grade) are not alraight, in fact they are complete garbage and lasted less than 2 years. They poorly rebuilt and casting started to rust couple weeks after I installed them. I will be starting a thread soon trying to compare 3 different calipers (Raybestos, NAPA Eclipse and Toyota OEM re-manufactured ones) and pin point a differences in quality and workmanship. So far from my observations Toyota OEM reman > NAPA Eclipse > Raybestos professional grade
Also, don't buy from the stealer directly. Use toyotapartsdirect instead and get exactly same OEM parts for 30-40% less
martini
New member
My first DIY brake job - a few questions
I'm about to do my first brake job with the help of this thread and forum. I have a 2007 Sport Edition and I plan to replace the front rotors and brake pads. I confirmed I do have the larger (casting 13WH calipers) and rotors so I selected the larger rotors. From what I found the OEM pads are all the same.
(2) Front Rotors (13.3" / 338mm sport edition) - 43512-60151
(2) Front Brake Pads - 04465-35290
(2) Front Brake Shim Kit - 04945-0C030
(2) Slide pin brakes - 90240-06158
I am assuming that each brake pad box has 2 pads, so I would need two boxes to do both front sides. Is this right or wrong? The same question goes for the shim kit, I assume that one kit would be for one side, so I need two, right? Lastly I have had trouble finding the slide pin part numbers. Mine are rusted so I don't want to just clean them up and grease them, I rather replace them since they are so cheap. I also read that the shim replacement isn't necessary but I have read that there have been improvements/re-designs overs the years so I figured I would replace those too while I'm at it.
Any other tips from those of you who have done this before?
I found this document about brake part numbers but I have no idea how to read it (http://www.toyota.com/toyota-owners-online-theme/pdf/04_BrakePads2014_052014_fin.pdf). The production dates don't make any sense to me nor does the model number to confirm the part numbers I have selected are accurate.
How do all of you find part numbers? It usually takes me a full day or search and googling to try and find the correct part numbers and even after that I'm not always positive I found the right ones.
Thanks in advance!
I'm about to do my first brake job with the help of this thread and forum. I have a 2007 Sport Edition and I plan to replace the front rotors and brake pads. I confirmed I do have the larger (casting 13WH calipers) and rotors so I selected the larger rotors. From what I found the OEM pads are all the same.
(2) Front Rotors (13.3" / 338mm sport edition) - 43512-60151
(2) Front Brake Pads - 04465-35290
(2) Front Brake Shim Kit - 04945-0C030
(2) Slide pin brakes - 90240-06158
I am assuming that each brake pad box has 2 pads, so I would need two boxes to do both front sides. Is this right or wrong? The same question goes for the shim kit, I assume that one kit would be for one side, so I need two, right? Lastly I have had trouble finding the slide pin part numbers. Mine are rusted so I don't want to just clean them up and grease them, I rather replace them since they are so cheap. I also read that the shim replacement isn't necessary but I have read that there have been improvements/re-designs overs the years so I figured I would replace those too while I'm at it.
Any other tips from those of you who have done this before?
I found this document about brake part numbers but I have no idea how to read it (http://www.toyota.com/toyota-owners-online-theme/pdf/04_BrakePads2014_052014_fin.pdf). The production dates don't make any sense to me nor does the model number to confirm the part numbers I have selected are accurate.
How do all of you find part numbers? It usually takes me a full day or search and googling to try and find the correct part numbers and even after that I'm not always positive I found the right ones.
Thanks in advance!
Just go to auto zone or the like, tell them what you need. When you order pads it's both sides for the front in one package. Slide pins are cheap and easy, a parts store will set you up without needing to research all the past numbers.
martini
New member
Thanks for the reply, however I want to go completely OEM on my brakes.
Oem, parts store, all made in the same factory.
But hey, if you want to spend more go to the stealership and order parts. You don't need part numbers.
You might wanna check this out if you already havent if you plan on replacing yours.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/196236-5th-gen-calipers.html
a4passata6
New member
Replaced my driver side caliper two years ago with an O'Reilly's caliper and it is frozen again.
I guess I will try the NAPA caliper this time.
I guess I will try the NAPA caliper this time.
Upgrade to the 5th Gen calipers. There's a thread about it on here somewhere.
a4passata6
New member
Don't I need new rotors for the new calipers? And would I have to replace both sides?
I see the thread link is just above your post!
Thanks.
Depends on if you have the big rotors or not. Worth the upgrade if you have 17"wheels.
Ausumm
New member
I bought my first 4R in December. (used 2004 SR5)
After a few weeks, I noticed an intermittent "wobble" on the front end. Thought it was a wheel-balance problem, after reading a few threads here.
More recently, the brakes developed a nasty squeak, also intermittently.
Took it to my mechanic, who discovered that both issues were due to the brakes. Frozen caliper and bad rotors.
Spent much more on the brakes than I did with my old S10 Chevy Blazer,
but as he explained, OEM brakes for a Toyota are made much better and will last much longer.
He described it this way....
The Chevy S10 Blazer was like putting an SUV body on a car frame, with a car engine, car suspension, and car parts. It was made to be driven like a car.
The Toyota 4Runners are made with Off-Roading in mind. The parts are more heavy duty for 4-wheeling...which makes them very dependable for basic street driving.
After a few weeks, I noticed an intermittent "wobble" on the front end. Thought it was a wheel-balance problem, after reading a few threads here.
More recently, the brakes developed a nasty squeak, also intermittently.
Took it to my mechanic, who discovered that both issues were due to the brakes. Frozen caliper and bad rotors.
Spent much more on the brakes than I did with my old S10 Chevy Blazer,
but as he explained, OEM brakes for a Toyota are made much better and will last much longer.
He described it this way....
The Chevy S10 Blazer was like putting an SUV body on a car frame, with a car engine, car suspension, and car parts. It was made to be driven like a car.
The Toyota 4Runners are made with Off-Roading in mind. The parts are more heavy duty for 4-wheeling...which makes them very dependable for basic street driving.
Hi Kmvreter,
On post #13, in the picture, do you have a part # for the steel line going into the caliper? It is circled in red. I am going to be replacing calipers and wanted to change these while I am at it. I haven't found it specifically and am not sure if it comes pre bent/shaped or if it is just a straight line that has to be shaped.
Thanks,
4thgen03
On post #13, in the picture, do you have a part # for the steel line going into the caliper? It is circled in red. I am going to be replacing calipers and wanted to change these while I am at it. I haven't found it specifically and am not sure if it comes pre bent/shaped or if it is just a straight line that has to be shaped.
Thanks,
4thgen03
I know I'm not who you asked, but I replaced one of mine already. You just have to take that into your parts store and they will give you a match. It will be straight so you will have to bend it yourself, but that isn't hard to do.
Np man! Happy to help!
lookin4yota
New member
It was a bit of an issue with me at first. If you're in the same boat here's the simple solution I found:
Detach the bolt attaching the brake line to the spindle to remove the old caliper, but reattach it when installing the new caliper. That secures the brake line so that it's easier to bend (gently with fingers or locking pliers) so that it will almost insert correctly into the new spindle. Then detach the bolt again to get the play you need to finish the job.
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