Front Brake Pad Life!

[Koz]

I just replaced the front pads @ 20K miles. Everything worked perfect; the wear indicator started to squeal, pads were all worn evenly, replaced pads. Everything works like new. The front pads were replaced in a snap (10 mins each side). Just disconnect brake-line and ABS wire (so not to get damaged when removing the caliper, you are NOT opening the hydraulic line, just disconnecting the line/wire so the caliper can be moved to the side), then remove two caliper mounting bolts (leave old pads as is) and slide caliper off and support off the ground. With the old pads still in tacked, use a C clamp to press the 4 pistons back flush (you may have to go back and forth to get all the pistons back). After all 4 pistons are fully pressed back into the caliper, pull the little cotter pins off the end of the two alignment pins (4 inches long) and slide the two pins out. This will release the two pads with the 2 squeal spacers per pad (4 squeal spacers and 2 pads) and the return spring (to keep the pads apart). Take off the squeal spacers and put them on the new pads ($75 front set) and slide them in the caliper. Carefully position/slide the 4 spacers and the 2 pads in the caliper and slide the top pin back in. After the top pin is in, it will align all the spacers and pad holes so you can insert the return spring and slide the bottom pin in. Replace the cotter pins, separate the pads and slide the caliper back in place (on rotors) and insert the top mounting bolt. I use never-seize on all the mounting bolts, brake-line bracket bolts and also put some on the hub where it meets the wheel. This prevents problems removing things the next time. Torque everything to spec and your set. Takes about a 1/2 hour total.

Koz

 

[spyne]

20K seems to be pretty early to have to replace the front pads. I've got 35K on mine and they still have a good bit of life left in them.

I'm glad to hear it's a quick job to replace them but am curious why your's went so soon. Do you do spend all of your time driving in the city or, are you off road a lot and using the brakes on hills?

 

[Koz]

Lead foot and a lot of city driving. :driving: I blame it on Magnaflow!

Koz

 

[greasefingers]

No I think you just like to do maintenence

 

[Mr. Lambdebois]

No I think you just like to do maintenence

:lmao:

 

[TechWrench]

20K seems to be pretty early to have to replace the front pads. I've got 35K on mine and they still have a good bit of life left in them.

I'm glad to hear it's a quick job to replace them but am curious why your's went so soon. Do you do spend all of your time driving in the city or, are you off road a lot and using the brakes on hills?

I have just over 38k on my '03, and when I checked the front pads (while replacing the rears), they had about 40% left on them. I do about a 30/70 mix, city to highway. As Koz indicates, pad life is largely a direct result of driving style and conditions.

 

[toybox]

I have just over 38k on my '03, and when I checked the front pads (while replacing the rears), they had about 40% left on them. I do about a 30/70 mix, city to highway. As Koz indicates, pad life is largely a direct result of driving style and conditions.

Why are your rear brakes wearing out before the fronts?

 

[TechWrench]

Why are your rear brakes wearing out before the fronts?

It's a long story, but what happened was I had a metal-on-metal sound coming from the left rear. Found the inside pad worn right down. Not trusting my dealer, I picked up a new set of pads and rotors and changed them myself. While removing the old pads, I discovered the lower metal clip that the pad aligns to the caliper with was bent out of shape, and was causing the pad to not relax completely when the pedal was released. It had to have been like that since new, but once I took it apart, I didn't have any confidence that the dealer would agree and fix it under warranty. It only cost $130 to fix it myself, and I know it is done right, so I didn't bother with the dealer.

 

[Koz]

No I think you just like to do maintenence

I do, but the wear indicators were squealing and the pads and they were about 60% worn. I have found that you should never let your pads wear more then 60% or you will damage the rotors.

Koz

 

[greasefingers]

It's a long story, but what happened was I had a metal-on-metal sound coming from the left rear. Found the inside pad worn right down. Not trusting my dealer, I picked up a new set of pads and rotors and changed them myself. While removing the old pads, I discovered the lower metal clip that the pad aligns to the caliper with was bent out of shape, and was causing the pad to not relax completely when the pedal was released. It had to have been like that since new, but once I took it apart, I didn't have any confidence that the dealer would agree and fix it under warranty. It only cost $130 to fix it myself, and I know it is done right, so I didn't bother with the dealer.

I hate those little alignment clips that toy uses. Thank goodness the front setup does not use them.

 

[TechWrench]

I hate those little alignment clips that toy uses. Thank goodness the front setup does not use them.

Both my Accords use these type of clips on the fronts, and they are always a problem. They tend to cause rust to form between them and the caliper which causes clearance gap to shrink and keep the pads from moving freely.

 

[greasefingers]

I recently did a brake job on my son

 

[kdh344]

how do i know if i need pads, rotors (or just turn them) or both? front end vibrates a bit when stopping.

 

[TechWrench]

how do i know if i need pads, rotors (or just turn them) or both? front end vibrates a bit when stopping.

If the rotors are causing the brake vibration, then they at the least need to be turned or replaced. Depending on your model, there is a specific minimum thickness the rotors can be turned to. Any good auto machine shop should be able to measure them for you and tell you if they can be turned, you just have to bring them the rotors (if you intend to do the brake job yourself). If not, then you will have to trust the shop you take the vehicle to. In either case, the pads should be changed so you have a new pad surface working with the 'new' rotor surface.

 

[kdh344]

so do i understand you correctly in that the vibration is most definitely the rotors and the pads will need to be changed anyway?

how will i know if the rotors need to be turned or replaced? or will the parts store tell me that?

 

[TechWrench]

so do i understand you correctly in that the vibration is most definitely the rotors and the pads will need to be changed anyway?

how will i know if the rotors need to be turned or replaced? or will the parts store tell me that?

If the vibration occurs only when the brake pedal is depressed, then it is most likely the rotors. But remember, if you have rear disc brakes, it could be rears that are causing the vibration, not just the front. If it is speed related, and not when braking, then it is probably a wheel balance issue.

As I said earlier, in order for the parts store/machine shop to tell you this, you will have to bring the rotors in to be measured. You might want to call ahead to see how much it costs to have them turned vs buying new ones. Considering the hassle of removing them, leaving the vehicle jacked up, taking them to the shop, waiting to have them checked (or dropping them off and going back later. picking them up, and reinstalling them. It may just be easier to get new ones, make only one trip, and install all the new parts at one time. You have to decide what's best for you.

In my case, I opted to get new ones instead of turning the old ones, even though I knew I had enough metal left to turn them. It took only one trip to pick up the parts, and about an hour down time installing them.

 

[kdh344]

ok i understand now. since the problem only occurs when braking i will have to assume rotors. what is the price difference in turning old ones and buying new ones? $10-20? or a lot more?

thanks by the way.

 

[greasefingers]

Rotors from the dealer are $120/ea for 16

 

[kdh344]

Rotors from the dealer are $120/ea for 16

 

[jeober]

I recently went to having only one vehicle and realized that I have a problem when doing my own brake job. So I purchased a set of OEM rotors so that I can replace the rotors when needed and then have the original set turned for the next job. I intend to keep the 4runner a long time!

Has anyone had diffiulty freeing their rotors?