Front Brake Pad Life!

jeober said:
I recently went to having only one vehicle and realized that I have a problem when doing my own brake job. So I purchased a set of OEM rotors so that I can replace the rotors when needed and then have the original set turned for the next job. I intend to keep the 4runner a long time!

Has anyone had diffiulty freeing their rotors?

The rotors come off real easy. You may want to put some never-seize on the hub/axle where the wheels touch/meet. I had to kick the wheels off, front and back.

Koz
 
OK about 1 year ago I cut my rotors and replaced the pads with Wagner ceramic. After two weeks the vibrations came back again, but only under heavy braking. Since I cannot determine if it was a shitty lathe job or if it was heat build-up due to using ceramic pads, I will not go this route again. It
 
Koz said:
then remove two caliper mounting bolts (leave old pads as is) and slide caliper off and support off the ground.

Koz

Unless you are replacing or resurfacing the rotors, you do not need to remove the calipers to change the front pads.
 
Re: Re: Front Brake Pad Life!

shit said:
Unless you are replacing or resurfacing the rotors, you do not need to remove the calipers to change the front pads.

How do you press the pistons back?

Koz
 
Re: Re: Re: Front Brake Pad Life!

Koz said:
How do you press the pistons back?

Koz

After you remove the old pads reach in with a pair of channel locks and depress each piston one at a time.
 
Re: Re: Re: Re: Front Brake Pad Life!

shit said:
After you remove the old pads reach in with a pair of channel locks and depress each piston one at a time.

I don't know if that would be any easier. You would have to push from two sides of the piston (back and forth) to make sure it retracts straight and every time you press one the others would move back out. You only have to remove two bolts to remove the caliper and press the pistons with the old pads and C clamps. I will try it next time to see which is easier.

Koz
 
I just finished replacing my front pads (with OEM ones). It was my first time to ever do anything brake related and this is really a piece of cake. If I hadn't brought a tv out in my garage to watch the Cardinals win the world series while I worked I could have done it alot faster. The 1st side took me almost an hour to do, partly because I was real careful to make sure I was doing the correct thing and the other part was because I couldnt stop watching the game. The second side took me prob 15 minutes. Using the c-clamp and pushing against the old pad worked great, the pistons pushed right back in no problem. What an easy job to do, It makes me want to kick my own a$$ for paying to have it done in the past. Thanks KOZ for the advise.

What surprised me most was I have 52k miles and I still had at least half the pad life left, but 80-90% of my miles are interstate driving. After I was finished I was backing out of my driveway scared to death I had screwed something up somehow but it drove like it did the day I drove it off the lot. Stopped just fine, and best of all no more of that squeeling I've been hearing for the last couple weeks. The brake pedal travel is just like it has always been.

Thanks again KOZ. :rocker:
 
New brake pads and rotors. Opinions?

I'm very close to needing to replace my front pads at a minimum and I'm interested in obtaining opinions on OEM pads vs Hawk semi-metalic pads and aftermarket SP Performance slotted rotors.

I have the following questions:

The 04 Sport with 17 inch rims has 13.3 inch/337mm front rotors, correct? Is the rear rotor size standard in the SR5, Sport and Limited? Is anyone familiar with SP Performance rotors and Hawk brake Pads and if so, any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Has anyone done business with raceshopper.com and if so, how was your experience?

What is the benefit from either slotted, cross drilled, or a combo of the two?

I tow fairly often and I'm seeking a combination of excellent stopping power, little fade, long pad and rotor life and a good price. Am I dreaming?

The stealership wants to charge me $250 to replace my front pads and turn my rotors. I'm not far from the wear indicator and I think I'm going to tackle this job myself. I appreciate your comments Thanks.
 
13.3" is correct for the rotors, but as far as aftermarket recommendations I can't help you. Replacing the pads is a piece of cake, noway I would pay $250 for that. I paid $48.73 + shipping for OEM pads online. They can be replaced in 30 minutes.
 
Wow...if Koz had to replace his around 20,000, I think I might have to around there as well. Because during rush hour, I take all city driving, I want to avoid dumbass drivers. Wear & tear on the motor, gas, tires & brakes is cheaper than a dumbfuck running his pos into me.

I have numerous friends that had to replace their rear pads before the fronts. These cars were Hondas & Bimmers.

I think the reason is because the front tire kicks up the dirt & lands on the rear pads & rotors.

That goes for nails in the tire. Front kicks it to the rear.
 
The only time rear brakes would wear out faster than the fronts is either the calipers are seizing, the vehicle has some whacked brake bias, or it's driven in reverse more than forward. Weight transfer from braking will shift to the front (nose dive)--laws of physics.
 
I found that I had a frozen caliper whiile rotating my tires last month. One of the calipers had a thicker inner pad and a thinner outter pad.

At 58K miles, my extended warranty covered the cost for two new calipers and an hr. of labor. I shelled out a $50 deductable, labor to cut the rotors, and the cost for new pads.

I'm a happy camper now as the brakes work and look great.

p.s. it cost 350+ for the caliper alone.
 
I finally got around to changing mine last weekend, after you guys kept scaring me with your miles. I was hearing a squeak every once in a while, so I thought that I had better do it. Well, I still had at least 40% of the pad left on the front and 50% on the back. The '03 was sitting at 130K miles when I did it. I'm now wondering if I'll ever have to change them again.
 
How do you know that your calipers are freezing? Also where can I buy OEM Brake pads for a 04 4Runner V8 SE (whatever comes with the SE)?
 
darktiger said:
How do you know that your calipers are freezing? Also where can I buy OEM Brake pads for a 04 4Runner V8 SE (whatever comes with the SE)?


When you go to change the pads there will be some very uneven wear front-to-back or considerably more wear on one pad as opposed to the other. Additionally if you have the pads off you will then try to push the pistons back in and they will be stuck in or out, or they will be very 'sticky' and hard to move.

You can get OEM pads at online dealers like trdparts4u.com or partznet.com
 
Uneek said:
The only time rear brakes would wear out faster than the fronts is either the calipers are seizing, the vehicle has some whacked brake bias, or it's driven in reverse more than forward. Weight transfer from braking will shift to the front (nose dive)--laws of physics.


or doing major burn out!:D
 
brakes

I have never done break replacements before is it really difficult to replace the front pads? I went to value breaks yesterday and the guy said I needed new front and back pads and new front rotors. I then went to toyota just to check it all out and the guy said he would be very suprised if I needed all of this done. My 4runner has 62,000 miles on it and I have yet to change the breaks on either the back or front. Is this odd? It just started squealing about three weeks ago but just got louder the past day or so.
 

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