Front Brake Pads, Struts, and Tools (Help me double check!)

[I_bRAD]

So this leads to something I've been wondering. Are the 4600s a suitable replacement for front struts? I thought they weren't because struts affect the vehicle's chassis itself and do more than simply absorb shock.

This is part of why I've been having so much trouble finding a good strut replacement. Someone please link me I'm desperate :lol:

The 4600's are PART of the front strut. You reuse (or replace) your springs and top.

Essex Distributors - Bilstein Shock Absorbers

I bought my shocks from these guys. Good prices and quick dellivery. I'm in Canada though, I'm sure there are plenty of US options available.

 

[Magmotor]

Brakes

I just replaced my brakes all the way around on my 2001 SR5 and it was a breezeee...:hello: I was elated that Toyota made it so easy to do. Just take your time, watch the vids and you'll do fine...!!:clap2:

 

[KnightFiyah]

Any front "shocks" you find for your truck will in fact be struts. The difference is that a strut includes a spring perch. The 5100's are a great replacement strut. I would recommend having a spring compressor handy if you're planning on doing the front struts. You may want to have a decent sized pry bar available too to help pry down the lower control arm if necessary.

The 4600's are PART of the front strut. You reuse (or replace) your springs and top.

Essex Distributors - Bilstein Shock Absorbers

I bought my shocks from these guys. Good prices and quick dellivery. I'm in Canada though, I'm sure there are plenty of US options available.

AHHHHH, FINALLY IT ALL MAKES SENSE. I thought the springs were attached to the shock itself; didn't realize it could be separated and reused. THANK YOU BRAD BROTHERS!

I added in brake rotors since Konkordmusk and UnderFire both brought up good points when doing brake pad replacement. And it's not very hard to replace brake rotors anyways so may as well.

I didn't change the floor jack in my cart to one with a higher lift because I'm just going to take a cruise over to harbor freight and see what they've got in store. So worry not!

Otherwise, I think my list is finally complete! I probably won't buy everything from amazon, I just wanted to get a list going from somewhere and amazon was the easiest. I'm going to check out harbor freight with general prices written down somewhere for what I'm looking for and see how their prices fair.

One final check guys please and thank you!

 

[Konkordmusk]

AHHHHH, FINALLY IT ALL MAKES SENSE. I thought the springs were attached to the shock itself; didn't realize it could be separated and reused. THANK YOU BRAD BROTHERS!

I added in brake rotors since Konkordmusk and UnderFire both brought up good points when doing brake pad replacement. And it's not very hard to replace brake rotors anyways so may as well.

I didn't change the floor jack in my cart to one with a higher lift because I'm just going to take a cruise over to harbor freight and see what they've got in store. So worry not!

Otherwise, I think my list is finally complete! I probably won't buy everything from amazon, I just wanted to get a list going from somewhere and amazon was the easiest. I'm going to check out harbor freight with general prices written down somewhere for what I'm looking for and see how their prices fair.

One final check guys please and thank you!

Right, now be careful about what you rent from O-Reilly's for re-compressing the caliper pistons. You NEED a dual piston caliper spreader. A regular C-Clamp will NOT WORK. What will happen is if you only compress one side, the other side pistons will extend. Not what you want.

However, I can't remember the last time I even used my Snap-On brake spreader. I just wedge two screwdrivers in between the OLD pads and OLD rotors and pry them outwards at the same time. This method has always saved me time. Keep in mind this method cannot be used if you are only replacing the pads, since it will damage both the pads and rotors, but since you're changing them both, have at it!

 

[KnightFiyah]

Right, now be careful about what you rent from O-Reilly's for re-compressing the caliper pistons. You NEED a dual piston caliper spreader. A regular C-Clamp will NOT WORK. What will happen is if you only compress one side, the other side pistons will extend. Not what you want.

However, I can't remember the last time I even used my Snap-On brake spreader. I just wedge two screwdrivers in between the OLD pads and OLD rotors and pry them outwards at the same time. This method has always saved me time. Keep in mind this method cannot be used if you are only replacing the pads, since it will damage both the pads and rotors, but since you're changing them both, have at it!

For sure, thanks for clarifying that for me. That probably saved me some trouble!

So I just got back from Harbor Freight and bought a bunch of goodies:
-Safety glasses
-Safety gloves
-Impact wrench
-Microfiber cloths
-6 ton jack stands (x2)
-Brake cleaner
-Set of chocks (x2)

I couldn't find anti-seize or a floor jack that rose to 22" (biggest was ~20") and a few other things like MAF cleaner. All of which I'll probably just get online or from a different store.

They had breaker bars, torque wrenches, and ratcheting breaker bars but I decided against buying one because I'm really not sure which one I need. If I remember correctly the choices available were 3/8 and 1/2" and maybe one other option for both the breaker bars and the torque wrenches.

Which one(s) do I need for this job?

 

[giovannie23]

A 6 inch c clamp can be used the same way
Just use the old pad and place them over both calipers
Place the c clamp in the middle of the pad and compress

6 inch c clamp is only like 6 r 7 bucks at Harbor freight
Not sure how much that other tool is

 

[Konkordmusk]

A 6 inch c clamp can be used the same way
Just use the old pad and place them over both calipers
Place the c clamp in the middle of the pad and compress

6 inch c clamp is only like 6 r 7 bucks at Harbor freight
Not sure how much that other tool is

No, please don't misinform him. 4 runner calipers are DUAL PISTON and cannot be compressed with a single c-clamp. You could probably use two on both sides but that's time consuming and awkward as hell. Oreillys should rent the dual piston spreader.

 

[giovannie23]

No, please don't misinform him. 4 runner calipers are DUAL PISTON and cannot be compressed with a single c-clamp. You could probably use two on both sides but that's time consuming and awkward as hell. Oreillys should rent the dual piston spreader.

That's strange..
I actually used one c clamp tho
Old pad fits perfectly across the 2 pistons, put c clamp in between the middle on the pad and the back on the caliper and compress...
At first I was confused too, cause it was my first dual piston brake job
So I watched a youtube video on how to compress both pistons at once on a 3rd gen
And that's exactly how he did it and it worked for me

 

[KnightFiyah]

Hey at least we know it's possible to use a C clamp, even if it's not ideal.

Still need help with the sizing of the breaker bar and torque wrench I'll need!

 

[Konkordmusk]

That's strange..
I actually used one c clamp tho
Old pad fits perfectly across the 2 pistons, put c clamp in between the middle on the pad and the back on the caliper and compress...
At first I was confused too, cause it was my first dual piston brake job
So I watched a youtube video on how to compress both pistons at once on a 3rd gen
And that's exactly how he did it and it worked for me

I'm not calling you a liar, but if you put a pad across the two pots where the arrows are pointing and compress those ONLY, the other sides pots are gonna extend.


To the OP: Get a 1/2" drive torque wrench/breaker bar.

 

[giovannie23]

I'm not calling you a liar, but if you put a pad across the two pots where the arrows are pointing and compress those ONLY, the other sides pots are gonna extend.


To the OP: Get a 1/2" drive torque wrench/breaker bar.

You are correct

So in theory factory spec would be both pistons on each side flush against the caliper. so when one side is pushed in the other side is pushed out.
So when you put the old pad against The pistons that are popping out and push them in, the pistons on the other side which most likely are going to be pushed IN the same anount the other side is pushed OUT which will bring it back to factory settings

Im no expert but since your saying the way i did it is not possible and i physically did it that is the only logically explanation i can come up with

Edit: after looking at your picture
The pods where your arrows are pointing to i never touch
I place the old pad against the actual piston itself and by the time i actually reach the pod your pointing to the pistons already compressed enough to slide the new pads in

Maybe thats are confusion idk i never thought about brakes as much as i have these last 2 days

 

[Gadgetguy]

Right, now be careful about what you rent from O-Reilly's for re-compressing the caliper pistons. You NEED a dual piston caliper spreader. A regular C-Clamp will NOT WORK. What will happen is if you only compress one side, the other side pistons will extend. Not what you want.

However, I can't remember the last time I even used my Snap-On brake spreader. I just wedge two screwdrivers in between the OLD pads and OLD rotors and pry them outwards at the same time. This method has always saved me time. Keep in mind this method cannot be used if you are only replacing the pads, since it will damage both the pads and rotors, but since you're changing them both, have at it!

You can put the old brake pad in there and use a c-clamp and it will compress both pistons :biggrin2:

After reading the rest, I still say it works as I've done it myself, and not just on this particular 4Runner, in fact a number of vehicles. To each their own.

 

[Goatcheese]

Good Luck! :yo:

 

[KnightFiyah]

Last noob question guys:

Will I need sockets or adapters to use the breaker bar/torque wrench?

These are basically the only sockets I have:
https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-9-...577548&sr=8-1&keywords=craftsman+tool+set+104

Just trying to make sure I have all my purchases covered before I pull the trigger. Thanks again for bearing with me guys.

 

[KnightFiyah]

Update: Now I'm positive I'll need the right sockets since neither the torque wrench nor the breaker bar seem to come with them and my craftsmen 104 piece tool set is meant for a smaller ratchet.

I just don't know what sizes I'll need and I don't want to wait until I attempt the job and THEN have to figure out what I need to buy to remove the brake caliper, tire lugnuts, and shocks. Someone help me out! Haha

 

[I_bRAD]

Update: Now I'm positive I'll need the right sockets since neither the torque wrench nor the breaker bar seem to come with them and my craftsmen 104 piece tool set is meant for a smaller ratchet.

I just don't know what sizes I'll need and I don't want to wait until I attempt the job and THEN have to figure out what I need to buy to remove the brake caliper, tire lugnuts, and shocks. Someone help me out! Haha

What is your current socket set, 3/8"? You can get a 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor and use the sockets you have. Worst case is you break a socket and then buy the replacement in the 1/2" size. (or both sizes. sockets are cheap)

 

[KnightFiyah]

What is your current socket set, 3/8"? You can get a 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor and use the sockets you have. Worst case is you break a socket and then buy the replacement in the 1/2" size. (or both sizes. sockets are cheap)

Yep I currently have a 3/8" socket.

Perfect! I had a feeling that was a possibility but just wanted to make sure.
Thanks so much.

 

[LV2001BI]

Tundra brake upgrade

I just replaced my brakes all the way around on my 2001 SR5 and it was a breezeee...:hello: I was elated that Toyota made it so easy to do. Just take your time, watch the vids and you'll do fine...!!:clap2:

Hey Magmotor check out the attached. The wobble went away with the new brakes & hope it dont come back with the beefier rotors.

 

[Dhowl513]

Looks good!