BrianSD_42
New member
just a long shot question but you would you happen to have 4WD on when this is happening?
Front-end clunk/pop while turning, sway bar bushings are new... What next?
- Thread starter dbsoundman
- Start date
hugo2go
New member
I have the same issue. A loud popping noise when turning into a driveway or taking a quick turn.
Already replaced the following:
LBJ
UBJ
Sway Bar end links w/bushings
Rack Bushings
Going to replace:
Upper and Lower control arms to Urethane
Inner Tie Rods
And hope to god that fixes the problem.
Already replaced the following:
LBJ
UBJ
Sway Bar end links w/bushings
Rack Bushings
Going to replace:
Upper and Lower control arms to Urethane
Inner Tie Rods
And hope to god that fixes the problem.
dbsoundman
New member
Hold on...you're talking about the rack guide...should I do this before, after, or in addition to the steering rack bushings I was initially asking about?
I'm really hoping this doesn't turn into a "shotgun approach" issue, I need to get my front brakes done soon too and I'm hoping to do the Tundra upgrade, so I'd like to hold on to more of my money if possible!
Also, this is in 2WD, 4WD is off -- it's just regular street driving.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
Its definitely not gonna hurt to replace all the front end components on a high mileage 4runner, especially since those are really all maintenance issues. But I would bet money that the clunk will be there until you have a new steering rack on your truck, unfortunately
Well its not a shotgun approach, just more of a temporary fix. As far as which to do first . . . worn rack bushing will cause a loose/sloppy feeling front end as they will allow the rack to move horizontally under stress. But that's not the cause of the knock, and you mentioned earlier that your truck doesn't have issues with wandering or sloppy front end feel. The rack guide on the other hand will address the knocking you feel. The knock comes from the shaft in the steering rack (which slides horizontally) having too much wiggle room, allowing it to clunk against the internal cylinder of the rack. The rack guide is basically a rounded bushing that presses against that shaft to keep it pinned in the rack cylinder. On the 96-98 models this part was essentially a bearing rather than a bushing. The bearing is pressed against that steering shaft and spins along the rack shaft to move easily. On the 99-02 models this was replaced by the rounded bushing. The bushing just presses against the rack shaft, so if you tighten it too far you create too much pressure which will make it difficult to turn the steering wheel. Honestly both are faulty designs imo.
If I were in your shoes though, I wouldn't do either right now. I would wait until you can afford a new rack, and get the polyurethane bushings at the same time. They are much easier to install on the rack with it off the truck. And I am saying all this from personal experience. I did the polyurethane bushing on my original rack which was a pain, and then did the rack guide fix. I then got a remanufactured rack and installed that myself. It turned out to be junk so I used my warranty and got a second rack, which I now have on my truck with the rack guide and poly bushing . . . and its still junk. I wish I had just gone with a brand new rack from the very beginning.
I have this same sound. Interestingly enough, I have a rack from Safari limited installed and it's about a year old.
Edit: A bit more info.
I have replaced everything in the front end except for lower control arm bushings. I bought this rack from Safari Ltd as they said it was better than stock. I'm going to call them and see if they will still honor their warranty. I think I'm right at the 1 year mark.
Edit: A bit more info.
I have replaced everything in the front end except for lower control arm bushings. I bought this rack from Safari Ltd as they said it was better than stock. I'm going to call them and see if they will still honor their warranty. I think I'm right at the 1 year mark.
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dbsoundman
New member
OK, so what's the best option(s) for a re-manufactured rack? I see Safari LTD mentioned here, any other good contenders?
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
No I would never recommend a remanufactured rack and I will never buy one again. Some parts can be effectively remanufactured. But from my experience, and what Ive read from others I don't believe these steering racks are intended to be rebuilt. And even if they could be properly rebuilt, Im fairly certain that the companies rebuilding them aren't going the extra mile to ensure that they are done right and will last. I think they do the very minimum, do a few simple tests to make sure they function, and then sell them for too much. The safari rack is the best option, at least based on the companies claims. Rock auto used to sell a new rack that several members here have purchased and been happy with. But I was looking on the site the other day and seems that they discontinued it. I would say safari is the best option. With the rack and poly bushings we're talking $500.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
Huh, now this is interesting. You should do some diagnosing and figure out where its coming from. Certainly possible its from the a arms. But I am really interested to know if its from the rack. Lift the front end just enough to get the tires off the ground, pull the boots off (pull them toward the outer sides of the vehicle so that the inner tie rods and inner steering shafts are exposed) and do some tests. On my current remanufactured rack I was actually able to grab the inner tie rods and feel the play in them just shaking them by hand. Do that and then test by turning the wheel back and forth and watching the driver side. You may see the spot where it clunks a bit. If this is the case it kinda shoots holes in the theory that the safari rack is superior. Unless you've just abused the crap out of it over the past year
Edit: I should specify I shook the rack at the inner tie rod, but the play was in the rack, not the tie rod
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dbsoundman
New member
I kind of misspoke when I said "re-manufactured"...definitely meant a new one. I'm guessing I'd need to call Safari to get pricing, their website doesn't seem to have that info.
Am I risking any further damage by putting this fix off for a while while I save up the money? I know it sounds terrible sometimes (to me at least), but I'm not having any actual issues with driving (no loose steering, etc.).
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
No its not gonna hurt anything. I mean when one maintenance part goes bad it can cause other parts to wear out faster. But that would be very minimal in your sitution. I wouldnt worry about.
Tylerbailey
New member
i would check your upper balljoints. i was having the same problem and got them replaced and all is good.
the great him
Elite Member
yeah flush your system so you dont risk contaminants getting into the rack, make sure you have it at dead center before installing it (turn from side to side all the way, and count how many turns, then find the middle), use poly rack bushings, and get an alignment asap.
Unbelievable
Not sure even if there are a few still having the front of there 4Runner sounding like something is coming apart but after sway bar bushings , struts , brake calipers pads and rotors min continued to sound like a spring popping or a wheel was loose .
I bought a can of lithium spray grease , sprayed the upper and lower control arm bushings and the mystery ended . Noises have not returned for three weeks .
Even took it to Toyota dealership in Kansas City where they told me the drivers side brake caliper had a piston sticking causing the problem. Wanted to change caliper , pads and turn brand new rotors .
Couldn't understand why the trained mechanic hadn't noticed calipers, and rotors were new .
Needless to say I didn't have another $600.00 bill they wanted to charge . $70.00 for that fix , called manager and he agreed to cut that in half after I told him a $5.00 can of spray grease fixed the problem.
Not sure even if there are a few still having the front of there 4Runner sounding like something is coming apart but after sway bar bushings , struts , brake calipers pads and rotors min continued to sound like a spring popping or a wheel was loose .
I bought a can of lithium spray grease , sprayed the upper and lower control arm bushings and the mystery ended . Noises have not returned for three weeks .
Even took it to Toyota dealership in Kansas City where they told me the drivers side brake caliper had a piston sticking causing the problem. Wanted to change caliper , pads and turn brand new rotors .
Couldn't understand why the trained mechanic hadn't noticed calipers, and rotors were new .
Needless to say I didn't have another $600.00 bill they wanted to charge . $70.00 for that fix , called manager and he agreed to cut that in half after I told him a $5.00 can of spray grease fixed the problem.
Supermoney
New member
Hey, did it work?
I have the same problem however mine ONLY clunks with sway bar links on.
gstai
Member
I had the same problem, the clunk was found to be the sway bar bushing mounts! I had the truck at the shop over the weekend and they replaced the left inner tie rod and told me the sway bar bushing were bad. I removed the links on the bar and the noise stopped. Try that out. It's a cheap fix!
Supermoney
New member
Damn lol, mine are brand new.
deodra
New member
Just replaced my sway bar bushings...clunk continues. Next, I will be replacing my stabiliser links and ball joints. Dang it. I'll probably end up replacing all typical bushings while it's apart anyway. I will be tearing out the xreas and installing a lift with all new components here this year anyway. Hoping that one of these things solves the clunk.
