Front range offroad full float conversion kit

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FrontRangeOffRoad

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Front Range Offroad offers a FULL FLOAT CONVERSION KIT for just about any Toyota truck. Convert your weak semi float rear axle with a full float conversion. This kit comes with CUSTOM RCV Axle shafts built for your truck!
With this kit you get serviceable bearings that are easy to replace! And in the event of a broken shaft your rear axle will stay together and you can continue to drive!

kirk_axle_and_KBG_026_800__33801.1416345571.1280.1280.jpg

This kit includes
a pair of 1" thick full float conversion rings with caliper mounts
a pair of RCV chromoly shafts
Seals and outer seal holders
Outer shaft Snap rings,
And hardware to bolt the rings to your stock axle flange.
Hit the trail harder knowing you have a stronger rear axle!

Get your kit today Full-Floater Conversion - Front Range Off-Road Fabrication
 
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Yumyumyumyuyumyumyuymyumyumyumyumyumyumyum..........I've spent too much money on my truck already.








And might have to spend more
 
I need better internet so I can research this. Page locks up on me. What is the price tag on this?

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So.... on our 4Runners, if our axles are upgraded, is the differental the next weak spot? I do like the idea of if you do snap an axle, you still have a rolling tire to get you back home. For me, that's huge!

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Been looking at this for almost a year now but haven't pull the trigger. Other mods have taken priority but it's on the list. Full float is where its at with disc brake conversion.

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MACT4R said:
Been looking at this for almost a year now but haven't pull the trigger. Other mods have taken priority but it's on the list. Full float is where its at with disc brake conversion.

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Do we really need disc brakes on the back? I've always heard our drum brakes are dang near bullet proof. I've never had an issue with mine. I do have Tundra brakes on the front (small ones) and plan on putting the 230mm on when I get my 35" tires. What would be the advantages of discs on the back?

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psraff said:
Do we really need disc brakes on the back? I've always heard our drum brakes are dang near bullet proof. I've never had an issue with mine. I do have Tundra brakes on the front (small ones) and plan on putting the 230mm on when I get my 35" tires. What would be the advantages of discs on the back?

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You have more stopping power especially if you plan on pulling a trailer. I have a 4th gen and it's night and day. I also have the 231mm TBU on my 3rd gen and its a big difference with oem.

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The next weak spot is the axle housing. It isn't too strong anyways and the full float has much tighter tolerances. Trussing them is hard because they like to bend.

If I was having problems with my stock axle I'd probably swap the whole thing out for something with rear brakes and a full float strong housing.
 
This seems like a pretty solid alternative if you have leaky axle seals. You get new seals, new brakes, and it's less likely to blow a seal again.
 
It's a cool thing. But I don't think we need to worry. How many of us have broken a bearing or rear axle ? Seriously? And how many of us HARDCORE WHEEL?
 
psraff said:
Do we really need disc brakes on the back? I've always heard our drum brakes are dang near bullet proof. I've never had an issue with mine. I do have Tundra brakes on the front (small ones) and plan on putting the 230mm on when I get my 35" tires. What would be the advantages of discs on the back?

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This is a situational thing. The bottom line is disc brakes are better to a degree, but not significantly in all aspects. You will hear varying stories on percentages of brake bias front to rear, 70/30 or 60/40, but ultimate your braking is mostly up front. Most people change front brakes 2-3 times as often as rears. The primary benefit of rear discs is the virtual elimination of fade. So if you drive a lot of long steep descents, or you regularly drive in slalom races, you will see a huge benefit. And if you fjord deep streams and rivers, they are less affected by water. Otherwise the pad tend to wear quicker than shoes, but they are easier to change.
Of course the wow factor goes way up with rear discs, and once you get the E-brake worked out, it's a pretty cool thing.
 
kolelt said:
It's a cool thing. But I don't think we need to worry. How many of us have broken a bearing or rear axle ? Seriously? And how many of us HARDCORE WHEEL?
Click to expand...

While I agree with you, the same thing could be said for plasti-shitting your emblems and bed lining your windows or every other meaningless thing we indulge in. Those of us interested in wheeling like the dream of the unstoppable rig. Me I think ditch lights look stupid! So there you have it! I'll just roll with it.

:crazy:
 
Guys thanks for the input. I was asking for several reasons. I plan on regearing within a year or so, and I will be doing new seals and such the same time. I'm not leaking but I'm sure they're original and I'm just shy of 200K.

So my thinking since I'll be running 35s and the whole thing will be gutted, should I strongly consider it? As for the brakes, I do plan on a trailer some day and again, with 35s that may be a wise choice. Plus ease of changing them.....

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psraff said:
Guys thanks for the input. I was asking for several reasons. I plan on regearing within a year or so, and I will be doing new seals and such the same time. I'm not leaking but I'm sure they're original and I'm just shy of 200K.

So my thinking since I'll be running 35s and the whole thing will be gutted, should I strongly consider it? As for the brakes, I do plan on a trailer some day and again, with 35s that may be a wise choice. Plus ease of changing them.....

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Here's some info on rear disc conversion. I suggest doing lots of research and this is a good place to start if you haven't done it already.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/106636-rear-disk-brake-conversion-pt-1-a.html
 
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