Front Shock Nut Stuck - No Compressor Method

[Rockledge]

2005 Limited 4Runner - Original Shocks and Springs - 170k miles.

I picked up Bilstein 5100's to replace the original shocks.

After reading several posts here and watching a few Youtube videos on the 'No Spring Compressor Method", I decided to go that route to replace the shocks.

I got to the step just before you lower the jack and decompress the spring, the step where you remove the center nut from the shock (leaving the three top-hat nuts untouched).

The problem is when I tried to loosen the nut, the strut shaft would also rotate. There was a tang on the shaft and I tried to hold on to that with a small adjustable wrench while I loosened the nut, thinking I would let the wrench rotate around get trapped by the fender wall, but it ended up snapping off the tang.

Any tricks or ideas on how to to get that top nut off the strut?

Thanks!!

 

[rdruss]

Going to have to get creative! Can you get a vice grip on the shock shaft anywhere and hold it?
If not then make sure you have a tight fitting socket or box end on the nut and try and strike wrench with a hammer to loosen nut by impact of hammer on wrench.
Someone else might chime in with a better idea.

 

[eleven14]

Going to have to get creative! Can you get a vice grip on the shock shaft anywhere and hold it?
If not then make sure you have a tight fitting socket or box end on the nut and try and strike wrench with a hammer to loosen nut by impact of hammer on wrench.
Someone else might chime in with a better idea.

This. You'll ruin the shock body but they're trash any way. I used a vice grip on the shock body to prevent twisting and wound up shearing the shock shaft off on both sides with a wrench, which solved the issue. The bolts were beyond rusted/fused, my next step would have been cutting wheel/sawzall which obviously comes with it's own risks.

Also, you're likely going to have trouble separating the top hat from the mount (assuming you're replacing those as well), I used a sharp chisel and hefty hammer in between the two - a couple of blows on mine broke both sides free.

Good luck

 

[vipergrhd]

Goodluck

I highly don't recommend doing this, it's your safety that's most important if you have no clue on doing it I would STOP now. Springs have a lot of stored energy and it can hurt and even kill you, I turn a wrench for a living and I have seen springs do damage when they let go.

 

[eleven14]

I highly don't recommend doing this, it's your safety that's most important if you have no clue on doing it I would STOP now. Springs have a lot of stored energy and it can hurt and even kill you, I turn a wrench for a living and I have seen springs do damage when they let go.

Don't recommend what, the no-spring compressor method?

It's the method I used and when followed correctly (OP, you needed to remove the top nut before lowering the a-arm, follow this writeup) seems to be perfectly safe. I'm an amateur wrench-wise and would hands-down use this method above rented spring compressor, I never once felt I was in danger during the process.

That said, if you have advice or experience to the contrary, please share with the community - I know a lot of folks have/are using this method.

 

[vipergrhd]

Don't recommend what, the no-spring compressor method?

It's the method I used and when followed correctly (OP, you needed to remove the top nut before lowering the a-arm, follow this writeup) seems to be perfectly safe. I'm an amateur wrench-wise and would hands-down use this method above rented spring compressor, I never once felt I was in danger during the process.

That said, if you have advice or experience to the contrary, please share with the community - I know a lot of folks have/are using this method.

My advice would be is do it the right way, we maintain a fleet for a government agency and if someone in our crew is doing something that we think is unsafe or not using the proper tools and procedure we put a stop to it. Just because you have done it so many times doesn't mean it's safe things can go wrong so quickly. Trying to convince another person that it's ok to do something that he/she has never done it before is also wrong, always think of your safety above anything else. Maybe it's just me.:doh:

 

[eleven14]

My advice would be is do it the right way, we maintain a fleet for a government agency and if someone in our crew is doing something that we think is unsafe or not using the proper tools and procedure we put a stop to it. Just because you have done it so many times doesn't mean it's safe things can go wrong so quickly. Trying to convince another person that it's ok to do something that he/she has never done it before is also wrong, always think of your safety above anything else. Maybe it's just me.:doh:

Perfect, then post "the right way" and help the original poster and greater community out. Or watch outs. Or anything helpful.

Without that, you're simply making unfounded claims against processes that have proven successful. If your position is simply "never try something you've never done because it could be dangerous", you're in the wrong place.

 

[vipergrhd]

Perfect, then post "the right way" and help the original poster and greater community out. Or watch outs. Or anything helpful.

Without that, you're simply making unfounded claims against processes that have proven successful. If your position is simply "never try something you've never done because it could be dangerous", you're in the wrong place.

I don't know what you do for a living but I will not work with you for you or near you. A lot of accidents are not accidents it's when people decides that they have done it so many times wrong it must be ok or deemed safe from what you said earlier. I apologize to the OP for the hijack i can post the so called correct way or procedure but there is no guarantee it will be followed because someone has done it their way and seemed to them safe question is can you guarantee the safety of the OP when shits hits the fan? I'm done here it's your life not mine.:usa2:

 

[BackOff]

You are using the t4r as a spring compressor.
Works really good...actually.

Sounds all scary until you actualy try it for your self.

Just remember to block the diagonal rear corner, to reduce the suspension interaction.

Like others have noted, you are removing garbage, vise grip to the shaft.

Pics? for extra enlightenment...

Second thought, if it is a OEM shock it has a plastic cover on the top half, can't grab the shaft with visegrip, aftermarket maybe a rubber mud guard you could smash/cut.

There are nut breakers too, to split the top nut, not sure the correct name...

 

[jcaino]

I just went ahead and replaced the top hats/strut mount when I did mine, so never disassemebled the original strut/coil assembly and pulled it out as one complete unit.

They're cheap and once I got the old ones out, could tell they needed to be replaced anyway.

 

[Rockledge]

Update!!

Thanks for the input everyone!!

Since I wasn't able to remove the top shock nut, I decided to order new front Coil Springs (Moog 81088 Coil Spring Set) and Shock Mount Kits (KYB SM5640) and remove the original shock assembly using the conventional method.

That being said, I still decided to still try the "No Spring Comprressor" method to install the new shocks and springs.

The driver side was great, after loosening the LCA bolts/nuts the LCA just plopped right down all the way. Then, I proceeded with the "No Spring Compressor" method and it was a snap. There was really no way the spring could suddenly discharge since it's captured by the lower shock spring seat and the upper shock mount.

The Passenger side was a different story. The LCA wouldn't lower enough to fit the uncompressed shock assembly. The rear LCA nut was really tight, but
I was able to move it out with a 24" breaker bar. Even with the nut loose, the bolt was stuck. I tried the BP/hammer/Impact Wrench and after forcing the LCA down, the eyes of the lower shock mount and LCA shock mounts were only like 1" apart.

Instead of wrestling with the LCA, I decided to get a loaner spring compressor from the local AutoZone and was able to compress the spring that way. I had no issues with this method either. With the shock assembly now shorter, I was able to slide it in and get the bottom bolt through it.

The other issue I had was with the passenger side Stabilizer Bar Link 6mm hex - removing that nut was an issue. The hex pocket was pretty rounded out after getting it off. Then, after getting the shock assembly installed, I went to reinstall the Stabilizer Bar Link and the hex was just spinning. So I ordered a new Stabilizer Bar Link. In the meantime, I decided to take off the entire Sway Bar assembly and see how it drives.

When I took it for a test drive, I noticed when I break hard, there is clunk sound from the front (Driver Side I think?). Is it due to the Sway Bar being removed and the drive-train being uncoupled?

 

[BackOff]

Pulling the front sway bar off should not result in more noise.
Check torque on the stuff you messed with.
Brakes can 'clunk' too.

Popping the UCA balljoint is probably the best/easy way, to install the front shocks.


When i did a MoogFJ front coil i couldn't get the spring compressor tool out after assembly, 2 different tools... forced me to use the "no compressor" method.

 

[Shiftless Joe]

Just went through this exact same scenario on our 05; positioned a ratcheting box wrench on the nut, then used a pair of vice grips on the top shock stem. Took a while (seemed like an hour of pulling on the wrench one millimeter at a time) but it eventually came off.

Use a floor jack to gently push the new shock up into the mount so that it's easier to get the nut started; it's all gravy getting the lower shock bolted up once you get it secured at the top.

Can't help you with the clunk.

 

[rdruss]

" Drive train being uncoupled". What does that mean?