front stabilizer bar link replacement procedure

[Previologist]

FSM says to take the wheels off to do this, but in my clutch thread someone mentioned it should be done with wheels on the ground. I only need to replace both of the links, not replacing the bar or bushings (at least yet). Whats the correct (or easiest) way to get this done?

 

[Endlessblockades]

FSM says to take the wheels off to do this, but in my clutch thread someone mentioned it should be done with wheels on the ground. I only need to replace both of the links, not replacing the bar or bushings (at least yet). Whats the correct (or easiest) way to get this done?

Pretty sure i did this wheels on the ground - they weren't under any stress that I recall....

 

[spartacus]

If replacing both ends. Do the bottom nuts first, dont tighten em yet. Get both the top nuts started, then tighten them down. No need to raise the vehicle.

 

[Offroad Alliance]

can be done flat on the ground, wheels on the vehicle if you have the right tools. At level ground the sway bars will not be under any pressure and those should come right off. Might need a hammer to give a little tap tap tapparoo to loosen it from being seated into place....

 

[phattyduck]

Helpful for it to be up on ramps for easy clearance, but it can be on the ground too. Get all the fasteners started (on both sides) before tightening.

I'd actually say its easier with the suspension loaded rather than unloaded.

-Charlie

 

[3bears]

yep on the ground worked best for me, however have done them off the ground, but then when it hit the ground tightened all again

 

[Previologist]

By my estimation the end of the stab bar is about an inch higher than the length of the new link. Wondering if I will have to do something like jack up the lower arm to get it in.

But that's a future worry because I can't get the bottom of the old links off (the top ends rusted/broke off long ago). I think I will have to cut it off, which means I will need to buy something to cut it off.

 

[GhostRing]

What's happening with the bottom nuts? Are they spinning in place?
There is a square flat nearest the ball end you may need to get a wrench onto.

 

[phattyduck]

By my estimation the end of the stab bar is about an inch higher than the length of the new link. Wondering if I will have to do something like jack up the lower arm to get it in.

You should be replacing them in pairs - and that that point, you just rotate the bar in place. The front end is free to move up/down.

-Charlie

 

[Previologist]

What's happening with the bottom nuts? Are they spinning in place?
There is a square flat nearest the ball end you may need to get a wrench onto.

Ah yes, I couldn't even see that and had to take the wheel off to get a good look at it. It looks like it may have had flats sides for a wrench at some point in its life, but they are indistinct now. Plus even my largest open end wrench (7/8") is too small to go around it. May have to cut it anyway

 

[Previologist]

You should be replacing them in pairs - and that that point, you just rotate the bar in place. The front end is free to move up/down.

-Charlie

Yup, they are both shot so both are getting replaced...once I get them off. I noticed a little play in the bar but it will take some effort to rotate it back in place. It has probably been free of the links for quite some time...

I should replace the bushings too but I'm not, for now. I have way too much to get done and way too little money and time to do it all.

 

[Previologist]

Finally got the nut cut almost all the way off and was able to back it off. I couldn't even get a vice grips on that flat flange in back until the nut was loose. And yep, it is indeed a square with rounded corners. Must be a 21 or 23 mm, because my 19 won't go on it and that's my biggest metric open end. Will definitely be buying one to get the other one off.

Now if I can figure out where the bushings and bushing washers go I'll be in business. My top ends were completely gone so they gave no clues.

 

[shadow247]

By my estimation the end of the stab bar is about an inch higher than the length of the new link. Wondering if I will have to do something like jack up the lower arm to get it in.

But that's a future worry because I can't get the bottom of the old links off (the top ends rusted/broke off long ago). I think I will have to cut it off, which means I will need to buy something to cut it off.

If you take BOTH off, you can just rotate the sway bar. Its easy enough to just turn the wheel to one side to get access.

 

[Previologist]

The tops of both links rusted/broke off years ago, based on their appearance. The bar may be somewhat reluctant to move because of old bushings, but it will move some.

 

[Previologist]

I bought a 23 mm wrench for that inner nut...it doesn't fit! I had to cut that one off too. That square nut thingie is a skooch bigger than 23 and there was really no room to grind it to size. Sure wasn't going to grind my new wrench lol

What is the proper torque for the upper iink nut? I am seeing only 16 inch-lbs for the upper and that seems off. I see 51 ft-lbs for lower

 

[Endlessblockades]

Have you checked the end of the threaded bolt in the pic posted above for an allen key hole?

Edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=113&v=js2fn5fR5v4&feature=youtu.be

 

[Previologist]

Have you checked the end of the threaded bolt in the pic posted above for an allen key hole?

Edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=113&v=js2fn5fR5v4&feature=youtu.be

Yep, actually I tried using that before I posted about my troubles. For whatever reason, possibly rust damage, I had no luck with it. After all, the entire top ends of both had rusted/broken off so it was all in pretty rough shape. A hex key doesn't really present a lot of resistance to force either. i suppose I could have used it as the force instead of the resistance but I'm not that bright.

Anyway the new ones are on, I just need to get an inch-lb torque wrench to finished the job I guess

 

[Endlessblockades]

Yep, actually I tried using that before I posted about my troubles. For whatever reason, possibly rust damage, I had no luck with it. After all, the entire top ends of both had rusted/broken off so it was all in pretty rough shape. A hex key doesn't really present a lot of resistance to force either. i suppose I could have used it as the force instead of the resistance but I'm not that bright.

Anyway the new ones are on, I just need to get an inch-lb torque wrench to finished the job I guess

Cool. The video I linked starts at the hex-key sequence. SB end links one of those things that can be tightened using the Gudentite Scale for sure. Super low consequence connections. People drive for years with them busted off and wonder why their rig Clunks when cornering.

 

[Previologist]

Cool. The video I linked starts at the hex-key sequence. SB end links one of those things that can be tightened using the Gudentite Scale for sure. Super low consequence connections. People drive for years with them busted off and wonder why their rig Clunks when cornering.

Yep I finally figured out I was worrying about nothing. I just tightened the tops till a few threads were sticking out the top and the bushings looked right. I had a helluva time getting the 2nd one to spec on the bottom, because that flat nut is pretty useless when the part is aftermarket SAE and all you have is metric. But its done, having taken the 10x the time it should, which is typical for me.

On to the timing belt and bell cranks.