Front wheel bearing, hub and spindle upright rehab

[Dezerts10]

I got a pair of 4x4 spindles from a guy and I am going to have the total chaos spindle gussets put on and since they are spare spindles I decided to re build them with new wheel bearings.

So I took the stuff to work and started the process of disassembling and got them all apart and wanted a little reassurance I’m not messing something up to much.

Bare spindle

Is the little rubber seal replaceable? I ruined it after I broke the snap ring and had to dig it out

Then the wheel bearing, it’s a complete unit? Or did I do something wrong?

I have the spacer and the abs tone ring off as well and the actual hub/ spline assembly

Any critique the better

Thanks


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[weekendclimber]

The rubber part looks like it's remnants of the outer oil seal (90312-95001):

The wheel bearing is a complete unit, so that looks all good to me.

 

[mtbtim]

You might find this video helpful. It covers everything you'll need to know about the presswork for these knuckles. The main thing you want to make sure you do is properly support the bearing when pressing in the hub. If you don't support the inner race of the bearing, you could damage it and you'll have to get new bearings as a result.

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[weekendclimber]

^^^What he said!!

 

[mtbtim]

You might find this video helpful as well since it shows all the steps to remove and replace the knuckles.

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[Dezerts10]

The rubber part looks like it's remnants of the outer oil seal (90312-95001):

The wheel bearing is a complete unit, so that looks all good to me.

That’s what it was thanks


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[Dezerts10]

You might find this video helpful. It covers everything you'll need to know about the presswork for these knuckles. The main thing you want to make sure you do is properly support the bearing when pressing in the hub. If you don't support the inner race of the bearing, you could damage it and you'll have to get new bearings as a result.

Thanks for the video, watched it and understand a lot better what I need to do.

How did you remove the wheel bearings from the outer race?

Also, where did you get your press tooling?


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[weekendclimber]

How did you remove the wheel bearings from the outer race?

The bearing is all one piece that is sealed, so there are no races that you have to deal.

 

[mtbtim]

Thanks for the video, watched it and understand a lot better what I need to do.

How did you remove the wheel bearings from the outer race?

Also, where did you get your press tooling?


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Look at the video description in Part 1. We list all the parts and tools we used. The press is just a Harbor Freight 20 ton press. That press is awesome and I've used it for lots and lots of jobs.
[MENTION=116195]weekendclimber[/MENTION] already answered your other question. The bearing comes out as a unit unless you experience what my buddy Jordan and I had to deal with when the inner race was stuck onto the shaft of the hub spindle. This could happen and we decided to use a Dremel tool to cut it off since we couldn't figure out a way to grab the edge of the race with a bearing splitter or other tool to pull it off.

 

[2TH4IST]

I finished my knuckle rebuilds this last weekend. Not bad at all. It will either be a tone ring (abs equipped) or a spacer behind the spindle 4 pin nut never both. Make sure you remove the inner races from the spindles if the bearing broke when you pressed it apart.

***Weld the gusset with a bare knuckle (no bearing or ball joint) before pressing in new bearing and ball joint!***

Install bearing in this order:

1. Lube bearing pocket and bearing outer race and press the bearing in with the metal seal facing outwards. Only press on the outer race of new bearing (take a old bearing apart and use the outer race).

2. Install new snap ring

3. Install outer knuckle dust seal

4. Install dust shield

5. Lube and press in spindle onto bearing, making sure to support the inner race.

6. Install spacer OR tone ring in correct orientation.

7. Install and torque the spindle 4 pin nut to 205 ftlbs. For manual hub swap only. Otherwise press on spacer.

8. Install inner knuckle seal

9. Sit back and have a cold one.

 

[Dezerts10]

In part 2 video you have an outer race for a press tool. How did you remove the inner race from that outer race to use as a tool?




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[weekendclimber]

...4. Install dust shield

5. Lube and press in spindle onto bearing, making sure to support the inner race.

6. Install spacer OR tone ring in correct orientation.

7. Install and torque the spindle 4 pin nut to 205 ftlbs.

8. Install inner knuc...

To be clear, step 7 is only necessary if you are doing a manual hub swap. There is not a spindle nut on the factory hub, it would be a spacer (43524-35010).

 

[2TH4IST]

To be clear, step 7 is only necessary if you are doing a manual hub swap. There is not a spindle nut on the factory hub, it would be a spacer (43524-35010).

Interesting, as the 2wd 3rd gen knuckles I pulled from the junkyard had the 4 pin nut. I'll add a edit.

 

[weekendclimber]

Interesting, as the 2wd 3rd gen knuckles I pulled from the junkyard had the 4 pin nut. I'll add a edit.

I guess I'm only talking about 4wd. I would lean on your description for 2wd vehicles, as I have no experience with them.

 

[Doc2012]

Interesting, as the 2wd 3rd gen knuckles I pulled from the junkyard had the 4 pin nut. I'll add a edit.

I guess I'm only talking about 4wd. I would lean on your description for 2wd vehicles, as I have no experience with them.

I’m gonna go out in a limb here and say the 4pin nut that was on the 2wd spindles is to keep it all together.

On the 4wd, the CV holds the bearing together. The 2wd doesn’t have a CV, so it would use the nut, just like the manual hubs would use.

At least, that’s what I would assume.


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[2TH4IST]

I’m gonna go out in a limb here and say the 4pin nut that was on the 2wd spindles is to keep it all together.

On the 4wd, the CV holds the bearing together. The 2wd doesn’t have a CV, so it would use the nut, just like the manual hubs would use.

At least, that’s what I would assume.


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That's what I'm thinking too, but with the spacer on the 4wd one seems a bit odd to me as all the wheel bearings I have done that use the cv to pre-load the bearing the cv presses against the inner race of the bearing, and the hub is a wee bit short to allow cv to press against the race.

I'm swapping to manual hubs this weekend so I'll pop back in here with pics of the 4wd non manual hubs look like.

 

[mtbtim]

In part 2 video you have an outer race for a press tool. How did you remove the inner race from that outer race to use as a tool?
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That outer race was from the bearing that fell apart on us when we were pressing the hub out. You could probably clamp the bearing in a bench vice, take a prybar and try to pop the inner bearing and race loose. Or maybe a punch and hammer trying to knock the bearing and race out from the inside out would work. If you work at it, I'm sure you would be able to separate the outer race from the rest of the bearing so you can use it as a press sleeve like we show in the video.

 

[mtbtim]

That's what I'm thinking too, but with the spacer on the 4wd one seems a bit odd to me as all the wheel bearings I have done that use the cv to pre-load the bearing the cv presses against the inner race of the bearing, and the hub is a wee bit short to allow cv to press against the race.

I'm swapping to manual hubs this weekend so I'll pop back in here with pics of the 4wd non manual hubs look like.

What the 4wd non-manual hubs look like can be seen in the Part 2 video I posted earlier. The spacer on the A.D.D. hubs takes the place of the nut on the manual hubs. For 4wd A.D.D. rigs, the outer CV joint presses on the spacer, which presses on the ABS tone ring or other spacer, which presses on the bearing.

 

[mtbtim]

I’m gonna go out in a limb here and say the 4pin nut that was on the 2wd spindles is to keep it all together.

On the 4wd, the CV holds the bearing together. The 2wd doesn’t have a CV, so it would use the nut, just like the manual hubs would use.

At least, that’s what I would assume.


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That would have to be correct. Without a CV axle nut to preload the bearing, the 2wd rigs need a nut, like the manual hub 4wd rigs use to preload the bearing.

 

[Dezerts10]

Here’s a picture of the A.D.D 4x4 spacer and abs tone ring

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