Front Wheel Hub Spindle Torque Important? Bearing Preload

[nobb]

So in the old style of hubs with the serviceable (greasable) bearings, the torquing of the spindle nut was crucial in setting the proper preload on the bearings to ensure maximum lifespan.

I am curious...in our 3rd gen trucks, is the proper torque as crucial? The front wheel hubs use a sealed bearing design instead and I don't think there's any preloading of the bearings that occur when this spindle nut is tightened. The manufacturer's torque spec is 174 ft-lbs and I don't think I torqued it that high after my last CV job.

Thoughts?

 

[JayRolla]

So in the old style of hubs with the serviceable (greasable) bearings, the torquing of the spindle nut was crucial in setting the proper preload on the bearings to ensure maximum lifespan.

I am curious...in our 3rd gen trucks, is the proper torque as crucial? The front wheel hubs use a sealed bearing design instead and I don't think there's any preloading of the bearings that occur when this spindle nut is tightened. The manufacturer's torque spec is 174 ft-lbs and I don't think I torqued it that high after my last CV job.

Thoughts?

You are most likely good, but again you always TQ to manufacturer spec. It is always important.

 

[Unner]

Manufacturers have torque settings for a reason and they do use torque wrenches when they build the cars to make sure they are torqued to the proper setting from the get go. Super critical, maybe not, but I always go by the manufacturer torque setting.

 

[Doc2012]

On ADD trucks, CVs are always spinning.

Not torquing that nut might now have any immediate consequences, but could over the long term.

If that nut backs off, there's nothing holding your bearing in there. Yes, it's pressed in, but I wouldn't trust just that. The hub goes through that, and all the pressure on that bearing *could* work it out. Then you're f'd.

Be glad you're not running manual hubs. That nut needs a special nut removal tool, and is torqued to over 200 ft lbs.


Sent from my PRC-119 using morse code

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

You'll be fine. That nut should have a locking cap on it with a big cotter pin through it. No way that thing is going to back off.

 

[TheDurk]

You'll be fine. That nut should have a locking cap on it with a big cotter pin through it. No way that thing is going to back off.

This. But Toyota says torque to 174 and that is what you should do.

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sa/fah/comp.pdf

When in doubt, RTFM.

 

[chimpy]

What is the size of the spindle nut? Getting ready to replace the CVs.:clap2:

 

[TheDurk]

What is the size of the spindle nut? Getting ready to replace the CVs.:clap2:

35mm

 

[Dephcon]

Depends if you have aftermarket CV's in there already. Mine was 36mm with NAPA CVs. Lucky the local tool shop has a no questions asked return policy so i didn't have to spend $15 on a socket that didn't work.

Also to add to the previous question, when i did my CVs the nut was finger tight. When i put it all back together 174 (or close too) was used. I did notice a lot more wheel noise after this so not sure if that a sign of wheel bearings failing now or its normal.