LB4Runner05
New member
Not sure in my case. From PA and my front calipers lasted till about 110k. When I did my front pads at 62 k I replaced the pins.
Frozen Calipers - How many others had this problem?
- Thread starter ssheftel
- Start date
Not sure in my case. From PA and my front calipers lasted till about 110k. When I did my front pads at 62 k I replaced the pins.
1clean4runner
New member
Just an input to those of you reading this thread and possibly freaking out about your next brake pad/rotor change...
I have almost 70k on my 2007 Sport Edition. I did my first rotor and pad change the other day (replacing all the originals) and the pistons on all 4 calipers pressed easily back in (with a flat screwdriver pushing on the pad - very little force). I reused the pins as they pulled out of the caliper with just a small pair of pliers. They didn't even need to be wiggled.
Everything is good to go.
This 4Runner has seen plenty of snow and salt (appalachian mtns for most of its life) although not as harsh as the northeast though. So anyways, I followed this thread for awhile and was sure I would have some kind of problem, but my worries were unfounded.
Good luck!
I have almost 70k on my 2007 Sport Edition. I did my first rotor and pad change the other day (replacing all the originals) and the pistons on all 4 calipers pressed easily back in (with a flat screwdriver pushing on the pad - very little force). I reused the pins as they pulled out of the caliper with just a small pair of pliers. They didn't even need to be wiggled.
Everything is good to go.
This 4Runner has seen plenty of snow and salt (appalachian mtns for most of its life) although not as harsh as the northeast though. So anyways, I followed this thread for awhile and was sure I would have some kind of problem, but my worries were unfounded.
Good luck!
Add me to the list of seized calipers (both front calipers). I only knew because I failed my inspection. The truck drove fine and last time I got my oil changed I was at 4/32 as far as brake wear. Never pulsated, pulled to one side as many have claimed on here.
100k miles and I can say this is the first real issue I have run into with my 2004 4runner. I'm not happy about it, but if this is the biggest pain in the ass I have to endure every 100k, then I am ok with it. I picked up some OEM pads through a friends discount for $50 and brembo rotors for $50 each.
Is Toyota ever going to own up to this? I'm considering getting a Sienna next and this may sway my decision towards an Odyssey.
Now I just need to order calipers. Where can I get the best deal on them? I would prefer OEM but will consider aftermarket.
100k miles and I can say this is the first real issue I have run into with my 2004 4runner. I'm not happy about it, but if this is the biggest pain in the ass I have to endure every 100k, then I am ok with it. I picked up some OEM pads through a friends discount for $50 and brembo rotors for $50 each.
Is Toyota ever going to own up to this? I'm considering getting a Sienna next and this may sway my decision towards an Odyssey.
Now I just need to order calipers. Where can I get the best deal on them? I would prefer OEM but will consider aftermarket.
talonjade
New member
A helping hand
I have a 2003 V8 sport 17'' wheels and I can confirm this as I just went through the motions today at AutoZone. 13WH casting is different in the mounting on the back of the caliper where the bolts tighten it down, its a longer bracket then the 13WL, I also measured the 13WH to be about 1/4 inch wider than the 13WL. The reason for this is that the Sport Edition was offered with larger brakes for the 17'' wheels. If you don't care about the size difference then you will probably won't notice the difference is stopping power, I have not checked on this but the rotors seem to be the same size. If you want to save a few dollers and don't haul anything heavy (so as to require larger brakes) then you can by 13WL.
Regards,:lookout::lookout::lookout:
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I have a 2003 V8 sport 17'' wheels and I can confirm this as I just went through the motions today at AutoZone. 13WH casting is different in the mounting on the back of the caliper where the bolts tighten it down, its a longer bracket then the 13WL, I also measured the 13WH to be about 1/4 inch wider than the 13WL. The reason for this is that the Sport Edition was offered with larger brakes for the 17'' wheels. If you don't care about the size difference then you will probably won't notice the difference is stopping power, I have not checked on this but the rotors seem to be the same size. If you want to save a few dollers and don't haul anything heavy (so as to require larger brakes) then you can by 13WL.
Regards,:lookout::lookout::lookout:
I ended up getting aftermarket calipers with OEM pads along with aftermarket rotors. Why get the same OEM calipers that failed to begin with? I thought this had something to due with my poor MPG (averaging about 15.5) but it's been fixed for about 4 weeks now and the MPG's are the same.
stanleybb50
New member
From what I understand all ''aftermarket'' calipers are still using Toyota's castings. The aftermarket companies just rebuild them.
I have a feeling I have a seized caliper again myself, and if this is the case, I'll probably try to go with the Tundra swap. I think there's a write up forvhow to do this to the 4th gens somewhere... But only problem is that I ''think'' that requires new pads/rotors as well.
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talonjade
New member
Yes, its not IF but WHEN
bought a new 03 4runner with no hints of brake issues...then after new pads 3 bad calipers!!!! 2 front and one rear... its gonna happen bro just do it now.
NCSCOTT
New member
Rotors are not the same size. 12.6" for "Most" SR5s and Limiteds. 13.3" for All Sport editions. There are a few members that reported having the larger brakes on limiteds and SR5s but they are few and far between. (Lucky I say) I agree there is no problem using the 2 different calipers (13WL & 13WG) for the 12.6" rotors. Where the brake line attaches to the caliper is a different angle between the 2. Thats all. you can bend the hard line very gently to fit.
I would not use the caliper intended for the 13.3" (13WH) caliper on a 12.6" rotor. I would think you are not getting full engagement of the pad on the rotors. If you want to buy the larger rotors and caliper. Go for it. A few members have done this with only minor "modification" (bending) to the dust plate to make them fit. That set up seems to work great!!
Edit: After Reading this again were you saying you can install 12.6" rotors and the Calipers that go with them (13WL & 13WG) on a Sport Edition as a cheaper option? If so. I would tend to agree. But I have never tried this myself. I think they would fit without any issues. I would not do it thou.
JMHO
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007Tacoma
New member
No lock up on the rear, but the front was wearing uneven...
At 130K miles (I had only owned it for 18 of those miles) my pads were worn unevenly on both sides on the front of the 03' SE 4WD. The calipers were not locked up, but they might have been replaced by the previous owner. I am wondering if they uneven wear is due to the lock pin being installed incorrectly (maybe). See pic below for example...
We cleaned up the everything and then greased up the calipers really well. No problems since then. I will be inspecting them again here in a few weeks when we do a tire rotation.
Oh, and here is one of the many reasons I love my wife...
At 130K miles (I had only owned it for 18 of those miles) my pads were worn unevenly on both sides on the front of the 03' SE 4WD. The calipers were not locked up, but they might have been replaced by the previous owner. I am wondering if they uneven wear is due to the lock pin being installed incorrectly (maybe). See pic below for example...
We cleaned up the everything and then greased up the calipers really well. No problems since then. I will be inspecting them again here in a few weeks when we do a tire rotation.
Oh, and here is one of the many reasons I love my wife...
SSt4r
New member
Errrrr......
I replaced both my front calipers in Nov. 2010 & now my left front is frozen AGAIN! Less than 2 years?!?!?!? Come ON!
I took the caliper off and most of the pistons were very hard to push back in with the lower inboard being the worst. I worked them a couple of times until they moved fairly easily & then I decided to take the dust boots off the pistons. The top outboard piston showed a light coating of rust residue that cleaned off with a rag but the piston looked ok. The lower inboard piston however was badly rusted and there was rust powder about the bottom of it. This leads me to believe that water is getting past the rubber dust boot & sitting there rusting the piston. So it seems that the majority of the problem is coming from outside not inside (like from contaminated fluid).
So, has anyone thought about putting some kind of grease or similar inside that boot? Maybe silicone grease (not sealant)? I'm trying to think of something that may make water penetration harder (to help the boot seal better) & something to coat/protect the exposed (outside of the actual seal) part of the piston. I think I'm going to have to replace this caliper again soon & want to try this. Anyone have any suggestions about what to put in there?
I replaced both my front calipers in Nov. 2010 & now my left front is frozen AGAIN! Less than 2 years?!?!?!? Come ON!
I took the caliper off and most of the pistons were very hard to push back in with the lower inboard being the worst. I worked them a couple of times until they moved fairly easily & then I decided to take the dust boots off the pistons. The top outboard piston showed a light coating of rust residue that cleaned off with a rag but the piston looked ok. The lower inboard piston however was badly rusted and there was rust powder about the bottom of it. This leads me to believe that water is getting past the rubber dust boot & sitting there rusting the piston. So it seems that the majority of the problem is coming from outside not inside (like from contaminated fluid).
So, has anyone thought about putting some kind of grease or similar inside that boot? Maybe silicone grease (not sealant)? I'm trying to think of something that may make water penetration harder (to help the boot seal better) & something to coat/protect the exposed (outside of the actual seal) part of the piston. I think I'm going to have to replace this caliper again soon & want to try this. Anyone have any suggestions about what to put in there?
At 130K miles (I had only owned it for 18 of those miles) my pads were worn unevenly on both sides on the front of the 03' SE 4WD. The calipers were not locked up, but they might have been replaced by the previous owner. I am wondering if they uneven wear is due to the lock pin being installed incorrectly (maybe). See pic below for example...
We cleaned up the everything and then greased up the calipers really well. No problems since then. I will be inspecting them again here in a few weeks when we do a tire rotation.
Oh, and here is one of the many reasons I love my wife...
She is definitely a keeper. My wife would never touch anything other than hading me a tool or two if my tool box is not nearby.
007Tacoma
New member
My wife knows were my tools are almost as well as I do. She doesn't always know what she is doing, but she isn't afraid to ask or to get her hands dirty. She is definitely a keeper - hence I married her.
ChaosStarter
New member
Add me to the list for the second time. The FL was replaced previously by Toyota from the original owner. Wasn't too long ago. This time the FR went.
Got a new one from Napa (price after core return was $20 less than my own price through my Toyota dealer's parts department and they come with the limited lifetime warranty). Put new OEM pads and rotors on and did a full fluid flush.
Decided to clean and paint the old caliper and do the new one at the same time. Did them black, and now just have to match up the rears.
2005 V8 4x4 Limited
Got a new one from Napa (price after core return was $20 less than my own price through my Toyota dealer's parts department and they come with the limited lifetime warranty). Put new OEM pads and rotors on and did a full fluid flush.
Decided to clean and paint the old caliper and do the new one at the same time. Did them black, and now just have to match up the rears.
2005 V8 4x4 Limited
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rainman353
New member
Went to get my tires changed yesterday and they said I should probably get my pads changed and rotors turned so I figured go ahead while I was waiting. 10 minutes later they come back and say that the caliper is frozen. I thought at first they were crazy because I had never heard of this but the tech did say it looked like my truck was driven up north.
Turns out I bought it used from a dealership that acquired the vehicle from auction in Ohio so I thought maybe the shop really did know what they were talking about but I was still skeptical. I come home and this is the first thread I find. I guess I'm going to have to do a complete brake job now after I just put new tires on. Oh well.
Turns out I bought it used from a dealership that acquired the vehicle from auction in Ohio so I thought maybe the shop really did know what they were talking about but I was still skeptical. I come home and this is the first thread I find. I guess I'm going to have to do a complete brake job now after I just put new tires on. Oh well.
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Failed at 69K
Mine failed a state inspection because the pads were worn thin on just one side. They said they could do a brake job for me at the price of $330 and they couldn't get to it for the next 4 hours. Mechanics and lawyers run on the same time tables, if they say 4 hours it means 5.5 hours.
I'm glad I took it home to do it myself because I found one of thecaliper pistons frozen causing the wear. I'm sure that job would have been about thousand once they found it when they had everything apart. I called NAPA and they were spot on asking me which rotor/caliper combo I had. All in all it costed me about $350 for calipers, rotors and pads and about 3 hours of my time. Most of the time was spent breaking rusty nuts and bolts in the salt belt of Rochester, NY.
The exhaust rattle is next....
Mine failed a state inspection because the pads were worn thin on just one side. They said they could do a brake job for me at the price of $330 and they couldn't get to it for the next 4 hours. Mechanics and lawyers run on the same time tables, if they say 4 hours it means 5.5 hours.
I'm glad I took it home to do it myself because I found one of thecaliper pistons frozen causing the wear. I'm sure that job would have been about thousand once they found it when they had everything apart. I called NAPA and they were spot on asking me which rotor/caliper combo I had. All in all it costed me about $350 for calipers, rotors and pads and about 3 hours of my time. Most of the time was spent breaking rusty nuts and bolts in the salt belt of Rochester, NY.
The exhaust rattle is next....
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