Frozen Calipers - How many others had this problem?

...
Although, I'll most likely go with the Tundra swap when I change however. We'll see..

Correct me if I'm wrong but the Tundra swap doesn't apply to the 4th Gen. The 16" already have a similar size caliper with a different casting code (due to a different angle on the inlet tube fitting.)
Upsize to sport brakes if you haven't already got the larger rotors and only run 17" wheels.
 
As I've mentioned before, ALL the calipers on mine were changed at around 60,000 miles or so I think. The front two were totally replaced...the rear two were rebuilt. Rotors were machined and new pads installed.

This 4R came from New Hampshire. I've never been there but I imagine they get a lot of snow.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but the Tundra swap doesn't apply to the 4th Gen. The 16" already have a similar size caliper with a different casting code (due to a different angle on the inlet tube fitting.)
Upsize to sport brakes if you haven't already got the larger rotors and only run 17" wheels.

You are 100% right actually. I meant the swap from this thread..

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?t=136993

In his verbiage, he mentions this "essentially" being the Tundra swap for 4th Gens, but you are right, I misspoke. I don't want to confuse anyone with incorrect info, so thanks for correcting.
 
My fuel mileage dropped from 20mpg to 12.5mpg in a matter of moments; at first there was a slight wobble when driving down the road. The wobble stopped after realizing the e-brake must've been slightly depressed, enough to not indicate the light on the dash. The mileage got considerably better, back up to what I was expecting. A day later and there wasn't a wobble but the mileage dropped again. I double checked my e-brake and it wasn't depressed this time. Took the front wheels off and used a screw-driver to leverage over the pistons off the brake pads...the fronts moved fine. The DS rear moved fine but the PS rear was considerably tougher to get moving. There isn't any excessive brake dust on the wheels, nor has there been any uneven wear on the brake pads. The 4Runner has only 25,000 miles on it, should I be worried and just swap them? Must I do both rears to keep consistent braking?
 
Is it recommended to pull rear caliper apart and grease the slide pins and reassemble? My passenger rear caliper is the "tough" one to move the pistons manually and using the Scangauge for reference, only seems to stay clamped intermittently making me wonder if just greasing the slide pins will bring proper function back to the caliper...any thoughts?
 
Is it recommended to pull rear caliper apart and grease the slide pins and reassemble? My passenger rear caliper is the "tough" one to move the pistons manually and using the Scangauge for reference, only seems to stay clamped intermittently making me wonder if just greasing the slide pins will bring proper function back to the caliper...any thoughts?

Certainly worth a shot.... The rear caliper only has one piston (as opposed to the front where there are 4 pistons) and need the slide pins to be free to ensure both pads are fully engaged during braking.....
 
I just replaced the front driver's side caliper and front rotors. I did this 3 years ago(20,000 miles ago). This is on my '04 with 122,000 miles.
The front caliper froze while I was on vacation in PA. It was shaking the truck and stinking up the pads.

NEVER GO TO MIDAS!! They were complete thieves on their charges.
 
My left front was seized by about 45k miles. I replaced both front calipers, rotors and pads. I just noticed in the last couple days that it's starting again with just shy of 83k on the clock. I guess I will change them all out again, but this time I'll use the NAPA parts with the lifetime warranty and keep the receipt.
 
The symptoms for the rear calipers are different then the fronts. The rears are your standard one piston caliper...while the fronts have 4 pistons.

If the rear caliper is sticking...it won't brake as well and may cause some wheel sticking when accelerating. The front's...usually one or 2 pistons will stick...NEVER all 4. And when this happens it causes uneven braking that seems like a warped rotor.

sounds correct my truck is now a bit sluggish when accelarting...checked the rims...the passenger rear is hot to touch!....

arrrrgh it appears am among the few with frozen rear calipers.........front passenger caliper stuck twice...cleaned and serviced it...still going gr8 5k miles after
 
Would a frozen caliper be causing a shaking steering wheel at 60 MPH? I was having that then heard what I thought was squealer and when I washed my truck the right front rotor was steaming when water hit it... Thoughts?
 
Would a frozen caliper be causing a shaking steering wheel at 60 MPH? I was having that then heard what I thought was squealer and when I washed my truck the right front rotor was steaming when water hit it... Thoughts?

get a tire rotation and wheel balance. don't bother with the alignment.

if this doesn't resolve the issue then inspect your calipers.

typically when they freeze up in my case i have noticed that the car will pull to a certain direction when i press the break. or when heavy breaking specially down hill i notice the car pulse.
 
sounds correct my truck is now a bit sluggish when accelarting...checked the rims...the passenger rear is hot to touch!....

arrrrgh it appears am among the few with frozen rear calipers.........front passenger caliper stuck twice...cleaned and serviced it...still going gr8 5k miles after

With 90K just had the left rear stick.... First notice it by gas milage then putting air in the tire Rim was HOT.... Brought it in and the pad was worn bad.... confirmed what I was thinking

Ez
 
Would a frozen caliper be causing a shaking steering wheel at 60 MPH? I was having that then heard what I thought was squealer and when I washed my truck the right front rotor was steaming when water hit it... Thoughts?

It is very easy to tell if you have a frozen caliper. Drive on the highway for a while. Then pull over and touch each wheel with your hand. If a wheel is hot, that caliper is stuck.
 
Thank You

Thanks I have always just taken my cars in for repair but prices seem to be getting outrageous so trying to learn to do some of these things for myself..
 
finally got around to changing my front calipers..as the drivers front side was stuck..giving me the burnt brake smell..since my sr5 had 17'' wheels..i simply did the tundra brake upgrade..bought 13.3'' raybestos rotors from amazon and the bigger 13wh calipers from napa and my truck is ok once again...mileage has jumped up and accelartion is smooth now..serviced one of the rears that was stuck too
 
Currently working on this problem. Ordered the wrong rotors. Stupid Amazon didnt specify the 13" disc.

Hopefully will be back up and running Tuesday.
 
It is very easy to tell if you have a frozen caliper. Drive on the highway for a while. Then pull over and touch each wheel with your hand. If a wheel is hot, that caliper is stuck.

That's true, IF the stuck caliper is stuck in the compressed position. We've got a Ford Ranger pickup sitting in the driveway right now that has the opposite problem. The caliper stuck in the released position. Therefore the opposite side is doing all the stopping work and that wheel is the one that gets hot.

To really know for sure which calipers are stuck, you need to pull the wheels off and inspect the pistons for movement and pads for added wear on one side.
 
frozen lower drivers side inner piston

Add me to the list. Just one frozen piston. Seems like the most common one (drivers side, lower inside piston) but both pads are 15% on the drivers side while passenger side pads are 80%.

Wondering why I have even pad wear on the drivers side caliper with only 1 piston stuck.

Headed to NAPA this week to replace the front calipers and pads. Rotors are fine but i will be flipping them.

I am stamped 13 WG.

Can I get the larger 13WH without also getting the larger rotors?

17" Wheels.
 

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