KB084RUNNER
New member
I think the 100% warranty is the first 12 months 12000 miles then the balance is powertrain. I would read your warranty documents completely. I would also call a different dealer and see what they say.
Frozen Calipers - How many others had this problem?
- Thread starter ssheftel
- Start date
I think the 100% warranty is the first 12 months 12000 miles then the balance is powertrain. I would read your warranty documents completely. I would also call a different dealer and see what they say.
KB084RUNNER
New member
You should replace any brake components and many chassis components in pairs so the dynamics are equalized and you do not get pulling or adverse and dangerous handling. On fulltime 4WD/AWD vehicles tires should also be replaced in pairs so as not to have alternating speed sensor inputs between the two sides which will cause the AWD to turn on and off repeatedly until it fails. Here is one way it can happen:
With tires, if you have a tire on the left with 20,000 miles on it and put a new tire (exact same brand/size) on the right side the new tire is actually larger because it doesn't have as much tread worn off. So to travel one mile it makes fewer revolutions than does the tire with the 20,000 miles which rotates more. The wheel speed sensors count revolutions with a magnet in the wheel bearing and send the data to the ecm. When the count is unequal the ecm thinks the wheel that is rotating more is slipping and turns on the AWD or traction control for a split second. Then when the inputs from that wheel do not increase the ecm calculates that the wheel has stopped slipping and shuts off the AWD or traction control. This constant on-off-on-off will wear out a tcase or differential in no time. The GM "AUTO4WD" mode on their SUVs was famous for this.
This can also occur if you have one under inflated tire...it also makes the case for proper tire rotation & inflation
Last edited:
zerowkul98
New member
From the head tech's lips, he himself told me "if you need a new rotor, we'll do BOTH cuz that's the proper way its done". Then Toyota eff's my weekend by only replacing the one bad caliper, thus causing my ride to pull badly to the left when i go over 40 mph! The dealership shop had me bring it back and will right the situation, and got me a rental til its ready. I just hope the pedal travel isnt too bad when i get it back!
The practice of calling other dealership shops is one i did back this summer when our 03 V8 was ready for it's timing belt + water pump + 90k service done. Got lowest quote from a CT dealership, asked the local Dealership if they can match it, they did. Saved a grand!
The practice of calling other dealership shops is one i did back this summer when our 03 V8 was ready for it's timing belt + water pump + 90k service done. Got lowest quote from a CT dealership, asked the local Dealership if they can match it, they did. Saved a grand!
BlackWorksInc
New member
I've driven a Tacoma where the master cylinder rod was misadjusted causing the brake fluid to become trapped in the system and not let back into the resevoir. When the brake fluid heated up, it expanded and with no where to go it engaged the brakes. It was so bad that you practically had to hold the throttle open the entire time to go 25mph... (My service writer told me and I quote "Drive it till it gets hot and the brakes start siezing and bring it back" :wow
When you barely touched the brake pedal the whole car would jerk to a stop like I slammed them going 50.We also had a used '03 Trailblazer from another dealership come through our used car department and it had contaminated brake fluid. The rubber sealing cap popped off and swelled like three times its size and the fluid smelt like mineral oil. Anyways, the swollen seals caused a similar situation, albeit to a lesser degree. It was subtle enough that I just wrote off the sluggish engine response to it being a GM V6 on the test drive, wasn't until I got to the under hood section of the inspection I put two and two together. In hind sight I should have noted how very responsive the brakes were. (I had a '93 S10 Blazer before and no matter how many times, with scantool, without, manually bleeding ABS, ect ect the pedal travel was ridiculous, and I have seen the same thing to be common in GM's trucks...) I would give them a light tap and they'd grab the car right there.
zerowkul98
New member
That makes sense, Blackworks. Its just sad that ill have preferred the brake pedal-response of my malfunctioning brakes more than normal-performing ones!
zerowkul98
New member
An electrician buddy of mine has a Salsa Red 2010 4Runner and had it on the lift at the town's facitilites building. He had both front wheels off the front so i got to inspect the 5th gen brakes....little-to-no-change from the 4th gen! Youd figure they'd make some changes with all the problems theyve had in the past.
People in here have tried Tundra brake conversions. Im going to do some homework on that.
People in here have tried Tundra brake conversions. Im going to do some homework on that.
zerowkul98
New member
Update: Called the dealership shop, they said theyd have the head tech check out the other caliper and get a new one ONLY IF NEEDED. I called Toyota Financial, the people in charge of the extended warrantee and explained how when my 03's had one seize, the mechanic told me to do em both. They basically just kept repeating themselves. Im pissed. Amazing how when its my dough, its both. When it's on their dime, its one.
FWIW, my local Toyota only mechanic told me they would only replace a caliper if it seized up, and does not do them in pairs. Rotors and pads are always done in pairs there. They just had one come in with a 'stuck' piston, could clean and free it up and were convinced it would work as it should after the brake job. Another one came in with a seized up caliper, it was replaced. I'll find out tomorrow what the damage is...
zerowkul98
New member
Well, the service guy called me...Im getting the left caliper as well! This is another reason why i trust this particular dealership shop.
Theyre also saying that the reason (a possible reason) is due to a warped rotor caused by the heat generated by a seized caliper. The way he explained it to me is that the warped rotor can push the caliper piston outwards more. Im hoping he's right.
Ive read a lot of nightmare experiences with Toyota Dealership Shops, and im no stranger to those. I used to live in central MA and the dealership there screwed me a few times.
Theyre also saying that the reason (a possible reason) is due to a warped rotor caused by the heat generated by a seized caliper. The way he explained it to me is that the warped rotor can push the caliper piston outwards more. Im hoping he's right.
Ive read a lot of nightmare experiences with Toyota Dealership Shops, and im no stranger to those. I used to live in central MA and the dealership there screwed me a few times.
inscarguy
Member
i just changed mine @ 89000 miles. changed the pads and rotors and found each caliper had a frozen piston, got the right one to free and work but the left one was a little stubborn. i changed both anyway. got them for 50.00 each at Advance with their online discount and picked them up at the store.
Last edited:
zerowkul98
New member
Cool. Hope they last you at least another 89k!
zerowkul98
New member
Yeah, was 79k on the 2003 and 48k on the 2008.
I got the 08 back last night, new front calipers, machined the rotors and did something to the pads. I took it out this morning...when i first hit the brake, the front end still shimmies a little to the left, but then comes back to center quickly.
The service guy said that the pads needs to wear evenly again, but if it continues, to call next week.
I got the 08 back last night, new front calipers, machined the rotors and did something to the pads. I took it out this morning...when i first hit the brake, the front end still shimmies a little to the left, but then comes back to center quickly.
The service guy said that the pads needs to wear evenly again, but if it continues, to call next week.
I had my passenger side freeze up around 90K and drivers side around 110K. I replaced them both at home for around $90ea with core charge give or take a few bucks. I also replaced the rotors because they were under warranty from last brake job I did. Garage wanted $250 parts and labor per side. Very easy job.
I have a friend that is a mechanic, worked on Speed World Challenge Dodge backed Viper team, was an instructor at a tech school, and has his own shop.. when this happened to me I ask if I should replace both, he gave me the old saying, "if it ain't broke don't fix it". The only thing you need to be careful of is letting air into your brake system. If not bled properly you could experience some pull to one side or the other. With me only replacing one side at a time I was able to pinch the line and minimize any air into the system and with the information from ALL DATA I printed off was able to manually bleed which is a small process. With the brake system aiding in the electronically controlled VSC and helping with TRAC, the brakes are constantly being used in slippery conditions. If you feel the brakes are not working properly take it to a Toyota dealership and asked to have brakes bled considering good pads and rotors. Due to the bakes being controlled electronically, Toyota has a bleeding machine ran by their computer to bleed the brakes.. Think it runs $100+ but can't recall exactly. Most "garages" will not have this specified tool. Another example - while most alignment shops will be able to "align" your T4R they will not be able to reset your VSC due to another specialty tool that only a Toyota dealership will have.. Hope I helped some.
I have a friend that is a mechanic, worked on Speed World Challenge Dodge backed Viper team, was an instructor at a tech school, and has his own shop.. when this happened to me I ask if I should replace both, he gave me the old saying, "if it ain't broke don't fix it". The only thing you need to be careful of is letting air into your brake system. If not bled properly you could experience some pull to one side or the other. With me only replacing one side at a time I was able to pinch the line and minimize any air into the system and with the information from ALL DATA I printed off was able to manually bleed which is a small process. With the brake system aiding in the electronically controlled VSC and helping with TRAC, the brakes are constantly being used in slippery conditions. If you feel the brakes are not working properly take it to a Toyota dealership and asked to have brakes bled considering good pads and rotors. Due to the bakes being controlled electronically, Toyota has a bleeding machine ran by their computer to bleed the brakes.. Think it runs $100+ but can't recall exactly. Most "garages" will not have this specified tool. Another example - while most alignment shops will be able to "align" your T4R they will not be able to reset your VSC due to another specialty tool that only a Toyota dealership will have.. Hope I helped some.
Last edited:
It ends up that my inner pads were quite worn relative to the outer pads on the front. The pads were replaced and no calipers were seized! My shop also does not turn the rotors unless there is pulsing while braking, indicating a warped disc. $130 later and I'm off driving and can't tell any difference in the braking from before. Rear brakes were checked and are still fine at 104k miles.
Just had to replace all 4 rotors and pads, and both front calipers on my '06 SR5 (17-in wheels) at 86,500 miles.
Cost me $850 total, incl tax (calipers were $145/ea, rotors were $47/ea, pads were $145 for 2 sets). Labor for the whole job was $220.
Shop owner showed me that the dealer (I bought mine used but looked up the service history) had replaced the front rotors and calipers under warranty with Sport Edition parts. So anyone wondering if this problem exists across all trim lines take note.:dammit:
Cost me $850 total, incl tax (calipers were $145/ea, rotors were $47/ea, pads were $145 for 2 sets). Labor for the whole job was $220.
Shop owner showed me that the dealer (I bought mine used but looked up the service history) had replaced the front rotors and calipers under warranty with Sport Edition parts. So anyone wondering if this problem exists across all trim lines take note.:dammit:
zerowkul98
New member
Sorry, man.
Wonder if anyone with a 5th gen. 4Runner has encountered any caliper problems. I dont think Toyota redesigned the calipers on 'em.
Wonder if anyone with a 5th gen. 4Runner has encountered any caliper problems. I dont think Toyota redesigned the calipers on 'em.
I can't complain. Other than my LCD panel bulbs burning out recently, this is the only repair I've needed since I bought it certified in '08. I may have spared the rotors if I had brought it in earlier when I first suspected the calipers were seized.
Now I'm anxious to see if my mileage goes up (been averaging 16-17 mpg forever with mostly city/suburb driving).
Now I'm anxious to see if my mileage goes up (been averaging 16-17 mpg forever with mostly city/suburb driving).
Similar threads
