And if you don't take it apart gracefully, just get some cheap towels from Walmart to put down for when the fluid comes out then toss em. I got irritated one 2 joints and went to town to rip em out. :hurt:
Full lift kit for Limited 5th gen
- Thread starter 3s1kill
- Start date
And if you don't take it apart gracefully, just get some cheap towels from Walmart to put down for when the fluid comes out then toss em. I got irritated one 2 joints and went to town to rip em out. :hurt:
Did you have all 4 wheels off the ground? I may need more jack stands and a jack. I'm afraid if they aren't then then the shocks would just compress down.
When I did mine, I had all 4's off the ground. I guess you could systematically do fronts then backs. Just might require a little more coordination when taking off the XREAS.
matoolie
New member
If you disconnect at the arrows the shocks will not collapse as the fluid will not leak out due to valves at the connections. The only way for the shocks to bleed out is to disconnect the lines at the shock body. Do this after removing shocks from the truck to drain the fluid out for disposal. You may get a a few drops leak here and there at the connections, but nothing that will make a mess.
The same holds for the other connections in the system at the arrows. At every joint there are valves that will close when the connections are separated to prevent leakage. As these components cannot be bled, new replacement parts for these systems have to be shipped charged/full of fluid from Toyota and the valves at these connections are what make that possible.
The shocks are connected in a X pattern. Drivers front connected to rear passenger and vice versa. As a result there are two lines that cross sides of the trucks under the transmission/engine along a crossmember. You can see the lines in the pictures. These are a little difficult to remove, but can be wiggled out with some bending.
Just remove the entire system from the truck. No point leaving it as it can never be reconnected. The entire system would have to be replaced with new components if ever wanted XREAS back.
The same holds for the other connections in the system at the arrows. At every joint there are valves that will close when the connections are separated to prevent leakage. As these components cannot be bled, new replacement parts for these systems have to be shipped charged/full of fluid from Toyota and the valves at these connections are what make that possible.
The shocks are connected in a X pattern. Drivers front connected to rear passenger and vice versa. As a result there are two lines that cross sides of the trucks under the transmission/engine along a crossmember. You can see the lines in the pictures. These are a little difficult to remove, but can be wiggled out with some bending.
Just remove the entire system from the truck. No point leaving it as it can never be reconnected. The entire system would have to be replaced with new components if ever wanted XREAS back.
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soggysailor
New member
Thank you all for the info.....
I'm being lazy on this project, it's 100 degrees in Fresno and since I'm saving about $3G by ditching the Xreas thing I'm fine with a shop doing the conversion. I'm working with a 4x4 shop that will do the complete system removal install tradition shock set-up, do the front leveling, and alignment for $1700. I know I could save some $ by doing it myself, but it's so nice having a trust worthy shop do it. It's like your gardener, yes I can mow and pull weeds but its so nice letting someone else do it.
So this is the system they are installing. Reminder.... I'm mostly a flat lander and occasionally go off road, so something pretty mild will cover my needs.
I'm being lazy on this project, it's 100 degrees in Fresno and since I'm saving about $3G by ditching the Xreas thing I'm fine with a shop doing the conversion. I'm working with a 4x4 shop that will do the complete system removal install tradition shock set-up, do the front leveling, and alignment for $1700. I know I could save some $ by doing it myself, but it's so nice having a trust worthy shop do it. It's like your gardener, yes I can mow and pull weeds but its so nice letting someone else do it.
So this is the system they are installing. Reminder.... I'm mostly a flat lander and occasionally go off road, so something pretty mild will cover my needs.
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MrGainzz
New member
It really depends on what lift kit you decide to replace the Xreas with.
Xreas is an awesome system for city and highway driving and it’s really hard to duplicate its ride quality if you have an aftermarket suspension kit since most of them are very off road oriented.
If you don’t or rarely off road,there’s absolutely no point to get rid of it.
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matoolie
New member
The only lift you can do with the XREAS is a spacer lift. The system will eventually start leaking no matter what due to wear and tear, but a spacer lift can reduce that time. All 4 of my shocks started leaking at ~42k miles. That was with a 3"/2" spacer lift. My 4th gen XREAS was still going at 67k miles when I sold it. Maybe the spacers contributed to my shorter life.
When the XREAS starts to leak, all the components connected to the leaking component have to be replaced (2 shocks, lines, and accumulator). Only Toyota can do the work at large expense. If you can turn wrenches, you can get a great complete system with lift cheaper than XREAS replacement. Very few people replace the XREAS system when its out of pocket. They go aftermarket or replace with OEM suspension from other models (SR5, Trail, Off-road Premium, etc.).
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Just a follow up. It took 6 weeks to get my damn parts but I finally installed them last night. OME 885 front springs and OME 889 rear springs with Bilstein 5100's on 0 setting. I also added SPC UCA's and I'm at the alignment shop right now.
I'll update driving impressions afterwards.
For removing the XREAS. I disconnect the shocks at the first junction and no oil leaked from the shocks. It was a 22mm wrench size in case anyone is wondering. I did see some oil on the garage floor but I believe it was left from inside the fitting and it wasnt much. So the majority of the oil is still locked in the system.
I'll update driving impressions afterwards.
For removing the XREAS. I disconnect the shocks at the first junction and no oil leaked from the shocks. It was a 22mm wrench size in case anyone is wondering. I did see some oil on the garage floor but I believe it was left from inside the fitting and it wasnt much. So the majority of the oil is still locked in the system.
Alignment is good now and it drives awesome. I was worried about the 2885 springs but it's very smooth. I purposely ran over a few curbs and it didn't have that loud thud like the XREAS did. Very happy with this combo.
I measured from the center of the hub to the fender and got the following measurements with a full tank of gas.
PF 23 1/4
PR 24 1/4
----------------
DR 23 3/4
DF 22 3/4
I wish it was more level but I don't want to use the .85 perch. From what I read preloading these OME lift springs can make the ride very rough. Not sure if it's worth the hassle.
I measured from the center of the hub to the fender and got the following measurements with a full tank of gas.
PF 23 1/4
PR 24 1/4
----------------
DR 23 3/4
DF 22 3/4
I wish it was more level but I don't want to use the .85 perch. From what I read preloading these OME lift springs can make the ride very rough. Not sure if it's worth the hassle.
Ray Dunakin
Senior Member
During my recent Nevada trip, I spotted this white 4Runner:
I also spotted a modded Inferno red 4Runner but didn't get a pic. Looked like it was loaded up for an adventure.
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I also spotted a modded Inferno red 4Runner but didn't get a pic. Looked like it was loaded up for an adventure.
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techmen17
New member
Grug556
New member
Bah, my check valves were corroded in place. For removal I used a trusty set of bolt cutters. Actual pressure from the banjo bolt is minimal. Put a rag over it , with a dump tray beneath, slowly loosen and thats that.
Its not like you can reuse this crap again anyways.
