I just wanted to give a quick rundown on the Fumoto oil valve I just installed. The valve i went with was the F103-N. I read some posts on here about the thread length and other issues and id like to address.
1. The threads on the valve extend into the oil pan too far.
- On my oil pan the threads were just shy of the end so there was no cutting necessary. After i drained the oil and it was just dripping i stuck a piece of bent metal rod into the pan and marked it. I then bent it again on that mark and held it up to the valve and was good to go. I have a picture of the comparison i can post.
2. The nipple on the valve sticks down below the skid plate.
- Mine wasn't even close to the skid plate. I wouldn't hesitate to get the nipple version again. I have a picture of this as well if anyone wants to see it.
3. The clip that holds the valve closed is unnecessary.
- While ill agree the valve is protected to me it did seem easy to open so i put on the clip. My advise is to use a hose clamp instead of the clip sometimes shown with it. That PITA took forever to get on after shooting off in every direction multiple times. Next oil change that's coming off and the hose clamp is going on. I was forced to put the clip on out of pure principle and i couldn't let it beat me.
4. What torque to install it?
- Mine came with a paper that said 20-23 Ft-lbs and i set my torque wrench to 21.5 and didnt get there before the socket slipped. It has a 14mm hex machined on it but it a shallow one. It seems the sockets relief wouldn't let it get a good bite so that stripped. I would recommend buying a deep wall socket and grinding the end down until that relief is gone to avoid stripping it. The good news is i haven't had any leaks yet.
If anyone has any other questions id be glad to take a shot at them.
1. The threads on the valve extend into the oil pan too far.
- On my oil pan the threads were just shy of the end so there was no cutting necessary. After i drained the oil and it was just dripping i stuck a piece of bent metal rod into the pan and marked it. I then bent it again on that mark and held it up to the valve and was good to go. I have a picture of the comparison i can post.
2. The nipple on the valve sticks down below the skid plate.
- Mine wasn't even close to the skid plate. I wouldn't hesitate to get the nipple version again. I have a picture of this as well if anyone wants to see it.
3. The clip that holds the valve closed is unnecessary.
- While ill agree the valve is protected to me it did seem easy to open so i put on the clip. My advise is to use a hose clamp instead of the clip sometimes shown with it. That PITA took forever to get on after shooting off in every direction multiple times. Next oil change that's coming off and the hose clamp is going on. I was forced to put the clip on out of pure principle and i couldn't let it beat me.
4. What torque to install it?
- Mine came with a paper that said 20-23 Ft-lbs and i set my torque wrench to 21.5 and didnt get there before the socket slipped. It has a 14mm hex machined on it but it a shallow one. It seems the sockets relief wouldn't let it get a good bite so that stripped. I would recommend buying a deep wall socket and grinding the end down until that relief is gone to avoid stripping it. The good news is i haven't had any leaks yet.
If anyone has any other questions id be glad to take a shot at them.