Fuse Box recommendation?

TerraCrawler

TerraCrawler

New member
I want to hook up a few accessories, and I really don't like how the Add-A-Fuse sticks out and you can't put the cover back on when you use them. So I am going to wire in a proper extra fuse panel. I would like one that has the ability to set each output to be either constant or switched.

I already have a SPOD, but I plan to use that for my LED lighting, fridge and compressor......basically things I would want a switch for.

Some things I may hook up to this: CB, Ham Radio, Dash Cam, Radar Detector, etc.

Can anyone recommend a good fuse box?
 
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Well, decide what you plan to run off of your main battery and aux battery and report back..it would be a little easier to garner suggestions

You will definitely hear mixed opinions on what draws on what battery..and I'm assuming you will be running a dual battery system.. Good question though
 
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greatape said:
Well, decide what you plan to run off of your main battery and aux battery and report back..it would be a little easier to garner suggestions

You will definitely hear mixed opinions on what draws on what battery..and I'm assuming you will be running a dual battery system.. Good question though
Click to expand...

I gave a few suggestions, basically things that normally would not require their own switch/relay/solenoid/etc, such as CB, Ham Radio, Radar Detector, Dashcam, etc. I don't have plans at the moment for a dual battery system, I plan to just run a single Group 31. Only thing that will really be on 24/7 is my ARB fridge......I could install a low voltage disconnect in case I cut things close.
 
RAD4Runner said:
Blue Sea Systems has good fuse products.
Click to expand...

I do like BlueSea, and I did look at their stuff. I do not see that they make anything that has an ignition tap, so that means everything is constant power, and you may need to turn everything off and on each time you use it.

See how this device works? FUZEBLOCKS.COM

It has power, ground and also something that is hot with ignition. For each connection you can decide if you want constant power or switched power. It's designed for a motorcycle, but I am thinking maybe use it in a 4runner application.
 
Signal said:
I do like BlueSea, and I did look at their stuff. I do not see that they make anything that has an ignition tap, so that means everything is constant power, and you may need to turn everything off and on each time you use it.

See how this device works? FUZEBLOCKS.COM

It has power, ground and also something that is hot with ignition. For each connection you can decide if you want constant power or switched power. It's designed for a motorcycle, but I am thinking maybe use it in a 4runner application.
Click to expand...

I like how compact that is. I have used Blue Sea blocks on my last three projects including my motorcycle. Before that I used the Painless block that also has ignition hot only leads. I used the 70107 on a Rubicon I had years ago. Worked great and never had a problem. I'm thinking of getting another for my 4.

Search Results | Painless Performance
 
I went ahead and ordered a Fuzeblocks FZ-1. I get 6 circuits which can be switched or constant, which should be plenty for me considering I already have 6 other things going to my SPOD.

The coolest little fuse block I have seen is this one, the PDM60:
http://pdm60.com

Totally computerized, uses no fuses! You can change settings via computer, gives status of circuits via multi-color LED, and its super compact. Just costs a bit at $199
 
Signal said:
I gave a few suggestions, basically things that normally would not require their own switch/relay/solenoid/etc, such as CB, Ham Radio, Radar Detector, Dashcam, etc. I don't have plans at the moment for a dual battery system, I plan to just run a single Group 31. Only thing that will really be on 24/7 is my ARB fridge......I could install a low voltage disconnect in case I cut things close.
Click to expand...

Ok, I was assuming a dual battery system and given the nature of the aggressive build you are planning and the uses..A dual battery system makes extended travel so much easier. Personally, for my uses, it is a must
 
Signal said:
I went ahead and ordered a Fuzeblocks FZ-1. I get 6 circuits which can be switched or constant, which should be plenty for me considering I already have 6 other things going to my SPOD.

The coolest little fuse block I have seen is this one, the PDM60:
http://pdm60.com

Totally computerized, uses no fuses! You can change settings via computer, gives status of circuits via multi-color LED, and its super compact. Just costs a bit at $199
Click to expand...

Interesting find...
 
greatape said:
Ok, I was assuming a dual battery system and given the nature of the aggressive build you are planning and the uses..A dual battery system makes extended travel so much easier. Personally, for my uses, it is a must
Click to expand...

Well, it may evolve to a dual battery system. A single Group 31 is damn mighty. I would have to do some relocation of components to get a second battery in the engine bay. The passenger side firewall location is taken by by Compressor/Tank/Manifold. I believe there are some kits to allow relocation of components so I could use the passenger side forward area of the engine bay.

A 31M-PC2150ST should give 100 amp/hours...largest draw I have while camped is my fridge at 1.35 amp/hr, so even go extended periods without driving should be ok. What size batteries do you run on your dual setup?
 
Signal said:
Well, it may evolve to a dual battery system. A single Group 31 is damn mighty. I would have to do some relocation of components to get a second battery in the engine bay. The passenger side firewall location is taken by by Compressor/Tank/Manifold. I believe there are some kits to allow relocation of components so I could use the passenger side forward area of the engine bay.

A 31M-PC2150ST should give 100 amp/hours...largest draw I have while camped is my fridge at 1.35 amp/hr, so even go extended periods without driving should be ok. What size batteries do you run on your dual setup?
Click to expand...

I run an Optima YT G34 for the aux. The main is still OEM, no need to change that yet. I do run a 200W solar system to augment my aux battery so I'm comfortable staying in one spot for extended periods. I will say that your fridge is going to draw more than that especially depending on conditions. In moderate temps, you will be fine for a day or two. In the current conditions here plus 105-110 daily, my fridge compressor is constantly running even on a modest 36 degree setting.

Shrockworks does make a nice kit if you do decide to go that route though.
 
The YT 34 is only a 35 amp/hour battery though. So stock + YT 34 is no where near as long duration as a single Group 31. I guess best setup would be to use stock sized battery for starting (in a relocated space), and a Group 31 for auxiliary. But I am fine chucking the stock battery and replacing with 100 amp/hours, which is greater than most dual battery setups,
 
Signal said:
The YT 34 is only a 35 amp/hour battery though. So stock + YT 34 is no where near as long duration as a single Group 31. I guess best setup would be to use stock sized battery for starting (in a relocated space), and a Group 31 for auxiliary. But I am fine chucking the stock battery and replacing with 100 amp/hours, which is greater than most dual battery setups,
Click to expand...

The 34/78 I have, if memory serves me right, is a 55ah. G31s are definitely beasts and at the time when I purchased the 34, I was in a pinch and that was the best offered. Eventually, I'll go 34 main and 31 house. Still, with running a 31 only that's powering accessories constant on or switched and coupled with cranking, me personally with a stock alternator... I would need added insurance like solar or at least a good lithium jump pack.
 
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